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06-15-2013, 04:41 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 454
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Ball Valve B4 Evans - WOW
It's been very warm here in the south and my dash air has never really performed very well. It blew more hot air while on AC than cold.
I finally had enough, did a search and found this thread so today I installed a 1/2" ball valve with pek fittings as did "007". Very easy to do, cut the line, insert valve and tighten a st. st. hose clamp on each side and your done. 20 minutes tops.
What a difference.....I drove the motor home to the storage facility which is about 30 minutes from home and it literally froze me out. It's NEVER worked so well.
I probably need a new Evans valve which I'll order but in the interim this fix worked wonders.
Thanks "007" for a great, simple and inexpensive fix.
__________________
Steve & Debbie + Bentley-Std Poodle
2016 Newmar Ventana LE 4037
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07-10-2019, 09:37 AM
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#16
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Moderator Emeritus
Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 30,785
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It's interesting how people never read the previous posts to get simple answer to a problem, just complain about their problem, than we do get a reader who does the fix and is a happy camper, bet he never changed the Evans valve.
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07-10-2019, 04:47 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowpulpit
It's been very warm here in the south and my dash air has never really performed very well. It blew more hot air while on AC than cold.
I finally had enough, did a search and found this thread so today I installed a 1/2" ball valve with pek fittings as did "007". Very easy to do, cut the line, insert valve and tighten a st. st. hose clamp on each side and your done. 20 minutes tops.
What a difference.....I drove the motor home to the storage facility which is about 30 minutes from home and it literally froze me out. It's NEVER worked so well.
I probably need a new Evans valve which I'll order but in the interim this fix worked wonders.
Thanks "007" for a great, simple and inexpensive fix.
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If you examine the control valve you removed, I think you will see it is a cheap PLASTIC ball valve. I doubt a new one will work any better for very long because they just don't seem to handle the hot water very well.
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07-10-2019, 06:08 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 672
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Seems like your refrigerant pressures are too high. maybe as suggested the rad temp is causing air cond temp to rise. If you are to use 35 psi low temp pressure, this equates to 40 deg coil temp. But the air temp coming off coil is 10 deg higher so discharge air is minimum 50 deg, then goes up from there with distance. Air coming off should be 40 deg with a coil temp of 30 deg. Low temp pressure would be 26 psi
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08-31-2019, 09:02 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Portage, MI
Posts: 466
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I'm having the same A/C problems as everyone else, so I want to install a ball valve in the water line. But I want to make sure I locate it correctly. In the picture, is this the Evans Control Valve, and do I want to install the ball valve in the hose entering on the right side? Thanks for your help.
__________________
2011 Newmar Canyon Star 3411; Workhorse W22; 8.1L; Allison 6-speed
2013 Honda CRV
Portage, MI
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07-23-2023, 06:39 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Mid Atlantic Campers Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: El Mirage, Arizona
Posts: 182
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I am considering putting a ball valve in my heater line. I assume this will stop the flow of antifreeze going through the my small heater radiator up front. My question is will this affect the flow of antifreeze throughout the rest of my engine?
It seems like it would make my engine water temperature run hotter due to not having to travel from the motor (diesel in rear) all the way through the hoses up to the front of the RV (37 ft) and back.
Any thoughts?
__________________
2000 Coachmen Santara 370 MBS
5.9L Cummins Diesel Pusher
VW Beetle Toad No Dias Malo in Cabo San Lucas
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07-26-2023, 03:22 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,242
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I put the ball valve in mine and still had problems. Turns out that the thermostatic switch (aka as "cold control" or "Ranco" switch) on my Evans system was bad. It's easy to test by bypassing it with a jumper wire, and replacements are relatively inexpensive and easy to install.
Check out this thread, and scroll down to post #28, where you'll see I started to get a handle on what my problem was:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/dash...-585316-2.html
Here's the replacement switch I bought from Amazon, though I note that it shows as currently unavailable. I paid $41 last year. At least this will show you what part you need to look for if in fact that's what your problem is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
__________________
2004 National Dolphin LX 6320, W-22, 8.1, Allison 1000, Front/rear "Trac" Bars & Anti-sway Bars, Sumo Springs, Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer, 2005 PT Cruiser Toad
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07-26-2023, 03:30 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,446
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The ball valve can be in any hose, it just stops the flow.
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