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Old 12-09-2005, 01:46 PM   #1
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i would like to put a trans temperature gauge on my bounder 5 speed allison 2005 w-22, has anybody done that job,

i had a 2001 gmc with duramax and allison and it had a trans temp gauge 1t was a model 1000
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Old 12-09-2005, 01:46 PM   #2
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i would like to put a trans temperature gauge on my bounder 5 speed allison 2005 w-22, has anybody done that job,

i had a 2001 gmc with duramax and allison and it had a trans temp gauge 1t was a model 1000
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Old 12-09-2005, 01:57 PM   #3
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by sal avitabile:
.. has anybody done that job.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>There have been some members that have done it but do you need to know the info or are you just curious. I'm sure once you have the gauge that you won't be using it as much as you might have hoped.

The SSC option package does have a tranny temp guage in the IP so it can definately be done.
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Old 12-09-2005, 04:04 PM   #4
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Sal, Check out this thread.
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Old 12-09-2005, 08:01 PM   #5
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I guess we could assume that nothing will ever go wrong, then I guess we don't need any insturment panel information at all. I want to know whats going on with my rig. On a PowerStroke I previously had, my aftermarket transmission gauge gave me an early warning that something was not right. Saved Ford a lot of time and warranty money and me not haveing to go thru the loss of my rig while in the shop.

Install a coolant temp gauge also. You'll be surprised how easy it is to hit 260+ on a steep grade in the summertime while the factory (preprogramed) gauge will stay in the middle of its sweep. Generally speaking, manufactures do not want the end user to have to much information. Just leads to questions being asked. They would rather handle the problem when something shoots craps rather being bothered with to many "I don't think this is right, check this for me will you."

This is no different than running down the road with your inside dual dropping to "0" lbs pressure and not knowing untill it blows (hows that for information).

Don't get me wrong. I love this W22. I'm still under warranty, but I want my rig here, not setting in some dealers lot waiting for repair. I just want to hopefully have an early warning that something is not as it should be, befor I hear an unpleasant sound =($$$$$).
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Old 12-10-2005, 02:46 PM   #6
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Sal,like you, I like to know what is going on. I purchased a gage and then looked for a place on my 5 speed tranny to hook it up. No luck, so I went to the local Allison agency and asked them. They looked in their manuals and concluded there was no way. The service manager's thought was "Why bother? Even the big rigs don't have gages anymore." They have a read out that says, "Check Transmission Temperature", just like you and I have. Hmmm, I wonder how they check it.
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Old 12-10-2005, 02:54 PM   #7
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I was just wondering, Does anyone have the recommended safe operating temperature for the Allison tranny? Also, is there a tolerance for short time exceeding the maximum? I'm thinking of the hill climbing situations.
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Old 12-10-2005, 03:33 PM   #8
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Regarding a transmission fluid temperature sender; It needs to be installed at the converter outlet to the cooler. 350 degrees is the maximum temperature. If the temperature reaches 350F, reduce throttle. To lower the temperature w/ the vehicle in Neutral run the engine at 1,200 rpm for 2-3 minutes to cool the oil. Do not allow the converter outlet temperature to exceed 350 degrees F.

Note: After a good run up a hill and if you find yourself pulling into a rest stop at the crest -- "Do Not Shut Down The Engine!" Allow your transmission to cool for approximately 2 to 3 minutes before you shutdown the engine. Now this would also be relevant if you were stuck in stop and go traffic, all fluids both motor oil and transmission fluid get hot. Allow your motorhome to idle down before shutdown.

At 350F you can expect your transmission to run for approximately 130 to 160 miles before complete failure.

Oil Temperature Measured In The Sump or Oil Pan:
<LI> 150 Degrees F: - Minimum operating temperature for continuous operation.
<LI> 180-200 Degrees F: - Proper fluid level checking temperature.
<LI> 200 degrees F: - Maximum fluid level checking temperature.
<LI> 285 degrees F: - Maximum sump/oil pan temperature for short duration, such as a long hill climb.
<LI> 300 degrees F: - Metal parts inside transmission begin to warp and distort in varying degrees, seals melt rapidly and transmission fluid life is extremely short due to oxidation and distress.

Beginning in 2006 all WCC Allison transmissions are filled with Transynd which will protect not only the transmission from transient high temps but will protect you the owner over time by providing a superior fluid for the transmission that will extend the life of the transmission and stretch your maintenance interval.

Given the environment that a modern transmission operates in the Allison transmission is the best hardware for the job. Filling your transmission with a synthetic fluid will allow you to go 4 years or 100,000 miles in between fluid changes. Not only do you benefit from the extended service interval but the transmission will run cooler and the internal running gear in the Allison will just perform better using synthetic fluid.

This has everything to do with molecular size of the atoms that comprise both conventional and synthetic fluids. Viewing the fluid under a scope you will see dissimilar molecule sizes for the conventional oil. The synthetic oil on the other hand is engineered from the same stuff therefore the molecular size is constant. If you were to take dissimilar bearings and put them in a race for instance and spun the bearing it wouldn't take long for the bearing to fail because the load is not shared equally among all the bearings in the race. Now same race all the same size bearings you get better performance and the bearing will perform as designed and yield long life.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
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Old 12-10-2005, 03:44 PM   #9
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I just looked at the Allison Operators manual and it says the temperature range is 100 degrees F (sump continuous) to 300 degrees F. (to cooler maximum intermittant) I guess if the maximum is reached you need to pull over and let it cool! The problem is most 6% or better grades I've seen don't have many pull over turnouts, just right hand slow lanes. I guess if pulling a dinghy, the DLW could drive following the M/H.
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Old 12-10-2005, 03:56 PM   #10
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DriVer... That's good info. I'm glad you included the cool down period. I think most people would tend to shut things down to cool off. Also, it sounds like the Transynd is the way to go after I get a few more miles on it. (only at 10,000)
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Old 12-10-2005, 04:39 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Streamerman:
I guess if pulling a dinghy, the DLW could drive following the M/H. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Steamerman, That's a strategy that should not go unmentioned. It's a very valid point especially when you already know that you might be near your GCWR like me for instance. I ran pretty close to 25,960 lbs so unhooking the toad and running up grades works!

The best example of this was in Nevada this last August running up the hump to Pahrump. I was lucky if I could run 30 mph going up. On the way back to Vegas I had the DW follow me and I went over the hump like it was a bump. The coach ran up the hill at the speed limit.

I would say it's a strategy that should be tried at least once to prove it out just for the heck of it.

Now given exactly the same weights this is one race that a W-24 would have won hands down toad or no toad. That 5.86 gear would have come in handy.
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Old 12-10-2005, 05:40 PM   #12
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Hey DriVer, A few years ago I dropped in from Pahrump to Vegas in my Aerbus with 460 Ford, a toad but no slides, Glad it was a downhill, but when we tried the pull from Vegas to Kingman, (Boulder closed to heavy trucks post 9/11), man, it was a slow go and high temp. I don't know how the Atrium with a toad would have pulled it but I bet there would have been some stopping and cooling.
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Old 12-10-2005, 06:15 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Streamerman:
I don't know how the Atrium with a toad would have pulled it but I bet there would have been some stopping and cooling. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Steamerman, I never had to stop and cool my drivetrain, we just kept on truckin'. The only thing it did to me was slow me down. It takes a lot to overheat one of those babies if you have a good cooling scheme regarding the coach body.

I have a tranny full of Transynd so negotiating that hill in my opinion was no big deal it's just that I scrubbed off a lot of energy going up hill. I just kept the pedal to the metal until I crested and ran the rest into Pahrump without a whimper.

Regardless of how many miles you're showing now I think that a switch to Transynd ASAP would be a good investment especially if you have high temps on your mind. Transynd alleviates my concerns concerning my Allison.

Wait though on switching to syn motor oil if you haven't done so already. I waited until I had 15K showing.

My motorhome runs syn just about everywhere you look at a fluid except for the coffee in the cup holders.
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Old 12-11-2005, 05:49 AM   #14
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I intend on switching to the Transynd this spring when I take my Mountain Aire out of storage. (13,000 miles) I don't think my Workhorse dealer has the ability to "pump" the Transynd in which would totally replace the old oil. I've heard that I will need to do another transynd change reasonably soon to ensure I have the transmission completely filled with the synthetic. Is this true and how soon after the first conversion to Transynd does it need to be done.

TIA

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