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Old 05-06-2015, 07:41 AM   #15
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I have not had it looked at yet. We went to Breaux Bridge & back...1,200ish miles & used the genny/roof air. I do know this, the a/c compressor makes a funny "chitchitchit" all the time, so that is not a good sign. As soon as I get it worked on I will update.............
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Old 05-06-2015, 12:56 PM   #16
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Sorry about the marine comment, old brain.
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:23 PM   #17
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Refrigerant rules of thumb, R12, you're looking for a running pressure of 35-40 on the low side, ambient temp plus 100 for the high side. So on an 85* day you're looking for 35-40 low side and 185ish on the high. For R134 40-45 on the low and ambient plus 125 on the high. Also, when you hook up to a full system, the pressures should be the same and should match the ambient temperature.

You're decidedly low on refrigerant, it has a cycling switch to disengage the clutch below a set amount, usually 25-30ish PSI. If allowed to operate below 32PSI the evaporator would freeze up. That explains why it's clicking so much, it's actually working correctly. Since it's low, but we don't know how much and where it's leaking out, it would be a good idea to visit a shop. If the leak isn't readily apparent, then they can use a detector, if that doesn't show it, a little dye in the system, then charging it, then using it will find your leak.

Four Seasons (I work for Standard, who owns Four Seasons and Hayden.) recommends temperature differential testing, for example, just beyond your expansion device you should see 35-40*, if properly charged and all is well, you should see very nearly the same temp at the outlet of the evaporator, meaning the refrigerant was expanding and cooling the whole way through the evaporator.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:04 PM   #18
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At an auto parts house where they sell refrigerant, they should have an information phamlet. The big thing is to get the chart. You need to be comparing: low pressure side, high pressure side, as well as ambient temp..In my case, after a replacement compressor, as well as new expansion valve, and also new tank, I had the system cleaned with solvent, until the solvent ran clean, then the vacuem. Finally got a system that worked right again.. Even at that, it would not take a full by weight charge of refrigerant, w/o the high side pressure going over 350. Compressors and resultant work are expensive, so I settled for slightly less refrigerant, but on a safe side for the compressor. With outside temp around 95, I get low 50's on the dash outlet. You should be able to get down to almost 40, but this replacement compressor will not do it.
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:25 AM   #19
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Curious--I have heard / read about a max differential of 20-25 degrees between intake air and output at the vent? What if anything does this have to do with measuring AC dash air performance, ie, if inside or outside ambient air temp is 95 degrees, can I still expect 40 degree "conditioned" air from the vent?
PS--I am sure it has been mentioned but make sure your heater coolant control valve is not leaking hot coolant thru your heater core while you are testing your AC.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:44 AM   #20
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Curious--I have heard / read about a max differential of 20-25 degrees between intake air and output at the vent? What if anything does this have to do with measuring AC dash air performance, ie, if inside or outside ambient air temp is 95 degrees, can I still expect 40 degree "conditioned" air from the vent?
PS--I am sure it has been mentioned but make sure your heater coolant control valve is not leaking hot coolant thru your heater core while you are testing your AC.
That's correct, 20-25 degree drop is expected, with the system on vent. In other words, a properly operating system will cool outside air 20-25 degrees. But on recirculate you should see about 45* out of the vents, eventually. The interior needs time to cool off, car in the shade so that the sun isn't fighting what you're doing, etc.
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Old 05-09-2015, 11:39 AM   #21
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Great feedback--I appreciate it. I keep hearing folks "boost" of having achieved 40 temps at the vent but never mention what the inside or outside ambient temps were when they achieved this "amazing display of AC magic." For Class A MH owners, trying to achive 40 degree vent temps in 8 x 8 x 40ft box, on a typical hot summer day is, unless you run the roof tops too, well, a bit hard to believe?????
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Old 05-09-2015, 11:55 AM   #22
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First: manifold pressure gauges never come with can taps.. They may have a hose for connecting to a many pound commercial tank, but they never come with can taps.

Second: Your readings look very very low to me but I am **NOT** and expert on dash symptoms.. I am an expert at reading the manual every time I work on it but have not worked on it in a while.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:39 AM   #23
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Great feedback--I appreciate it. I keep hearing folks "boost" of having achieved 40 temps at the vent but never mention what the inside or outside ambient temps were when they achieved this "amazing display of AC magic." For Class A MH owners, trying to achive 40 degree vent temps in 8 x 8 x 40ft box, on a typical hot summer day is, unless you run the roof tops too, well, a bit hard to believe?????
At the vent is quite subjective too, the passenger side vents tend to be cooler because they're right there at the evaporator, I've also seen folks close all the vents forcing all the cool air out one single vent. I can manipulate a thermometer to read whatever I want, but if I want to know how the system is doing, I'm going to measure temps at the lines in and out the of the box, I'm going to check the temp at the center vent, system on high, recirculate, and in the shade. I let it run for 15 minutes, then 30 checking it at those times.

Don't forget, cooling fans play a huge role in making this work too. It's all part of the system.
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Old 05-10-2015, 06:13 AM   #24
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Agree on fan performance/ air flow for both the evap and the condensor--both should be checked and cleaned. I recently completed a project on my 2003, 40ft DP--moving the condensor from the rear radiator stack to the front fender well. Poor OEM designed used engine fan for air flow thru the CAC and radiator [mechanical wax valve--no A/C interface] was the issue. Moving the condensor to clean/cooler air in front, adding electric fans, and connecting the fans to the compressor clutch circuit via relay, made a world of difference. Dragging 40ft of new A/C hose thru the under frame of the coach was no fun but the results were amazing.
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:52 PM   #25
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Well, I am working on changing the t-stat/hoses/rad flush. I turned on the A/C today while warming everything up and the compressor locks up, squealing the belt........not a good sigh eh?
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:10 PM   #26
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Well, I am working on changing the t-stat/hoses/rad flush. I turned on the A/C today while warming everything up and the compressor locks up, squealing the belt........not a good sigh eh?
Ohh, yeah, that's pretty terminal.

Be sure to clean out the rest of the system!
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:24 PM   #27
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Today I ordered all new a/c parts...compressor, dryer, orifice tube, oil, freon. Debating weather to have the system vacuumed out and flushed then install myself, or just have it all installed. Parts were not too bad...under $250.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:43 PM   #28
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All depends on the labor, a shop will be able to vacuum the system down, monitor for leaks, and if anything goes wrong then it's on them.
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