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08-14-2020, 12:41 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 768
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One more:
http://www.oemys-performance.com/j71autopark.htm
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08-14-2020, 06:22 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 13
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Thank you everyone for the links and advice. I think I've narrowed it down to needing the actuator adjusted, but would like some help on how much I'm able or should tighten it down...I don't want to risk damaging the cable. My pump runs, the switches work, the actuator works, but the cable is not able to push/pull the lever near the brake drum to engage/disengage the shoes
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08-14-2020, 07:00 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,930
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Are you sure the star wheel on the drum itself is not out of adjustment?
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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08-15-2020, 08:23 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 13
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UPDATE
Thanks again everyone. I finally built up the courage and dropped the driveshaft and got into the brake drum itself. I found that one of the shoes was completely worn down to the metal, as well as the cable within the drum had melted, which exposed the cable (which is probably a key reason why it wasn't engaging when the actuator pulled / pushed the cable.....So now I need to determine if I should replace the entire drum assembly or just replace the shoes.
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08-15-2020, 01:47 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 2,514
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If it was mine, I would just replace the shoes, this is just a parking brake, unlike a disk or drum brake at each wheel that would cause vibrations if it was warped or worn.
Good investigation, at least now you can get it back going again, seems like the prior owner had driven when the brake was engaged.
__________________
2005 Tiffin Allegro Bay 37DB
W22 Workhorse Chassis 8.1 Flat Towing a 82 Jeep CJ7
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08-31-2020, 06:09 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 13
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UPDATE...Finished
Well, it's been quite the journey, but I think I've successfully fixed everything. I've replaced both RGS (One at the pump, one at the actuator), just in case. I replaced the entire brake drum assembly (Thanks to Ultra RV products - AMAZING customer service), and inadvertently ended up replacing the u-joint going from the drive shaft to the brake drum because one of the caps fell off and all the needle bearings fell out (should have taped them up)….
Thanks to everyone for their guidance and for pointing me in the right direction to diagnose my issues. I've learned a ton and feel great I was able to tackle these jobs myself!
Think I still need to make some small adjustments to the brake drum, but overall It's backed being parked with no blocks under the tires!
Success!
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09-03-2020, 04:39 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beverslee Hills, Calif
Posts: 203
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You did not mention if the manual foot or lever brake works !! ??
The manual brake should work if cable connected and shoes can touch the drum.
GL !
Quote:
Originally Posted by bford9
I've read all the threads about the Rotten Green Switch, but I don't think that's my issue. I currently have NO park functionality at all on my 2002 Coachmen Pathfinder QB300 Workhorse 8.1L. I have the push/pull style yellow e-brake, which also does nothing at the moment. I'm able to drive my RV and I hear the autopark motor whine for a few seconds and then goes off, along with the autopark light. I got underneath and verified the actuator is actually moving freely when put into gear and back when it's placed into park, however when in park the RV keeps rolling. I'm assuming I need to replace the park brake shoes, but hoping someone could verify and provide some instruction about how to tackle this project. I called an fleet transmission place and they wanted $2,000 to do the job. I'd like to think it shouldn't require that type of expense and hopefully something I can tackle myself. Any thoughts / suggestions appreciated.
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09-03-2020, 05:59 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Watertown NY USA
Posts: 6,517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmilingSam
You did not mention if the manual foot or lever brake works !! ??
The manual brake should work if cable connected and shoes can touch the drum.
GL !
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There is no manual parking brake control. It's an Auto Park hydraulic system.
__________________
2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
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09-04-2020, 05:59 AM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 13
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Yes - the manual lever brake works when applied.
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09-04-2020, 06:30 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bford9
Yes - the manual lever brake works when applied.
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I’m confused. Are you saying your P32 has BOTH types of PB ? One is the J71 AAPB and the other is a hand applied manual PB ??? If so, does the hand lever brake function apply the SAME brake shoes as the Auto brake??
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09-04-2020, 04:48 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: NJ
Posts: 8
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On the RVAUTOPARK site, OUB talks about 3 different versions. I believe the early one has the pedal instead of the yellow knob. The diagram on the bottom of page 2 shows the cable going to the pedal.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.rvautopark.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/NEED-HELP-WITH-LOCKED-UP-AUTOPARK-PARKING-BRAKE-SYSTEM.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi7-fq0yNDrAhVKaM0KHf3ZDXMQFjARegQIDhAC&usg=AOvVaw3L_Z VOLoZh08LA0I5qb4Jo
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09-04-2020, 10:24 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beverslee Hills, Calif
Posts: 203
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no most j71 had both a foot or hand lever manual access to the cable that pulls the brake shoes to open and brake via a mixing box/mechanism where the hydraulic pump cable also connects.
plenty of pic on google for j71.
j72 works significantly diff than j71 but also has a foot/lever manual brake.
it looks as though light weight versions of p30 may only have manual and/or a parking pawl.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgray
I’m confused. Are you saying your P32 has BOTH types of PB ? One is the J71 AAPB and the other is a hand applied manual PB ??? If so, does the hand lever brake function apply the SAME brake shoes as the Auto brake??
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09-05-2020, 02:01 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,930
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Pressense of a hand lever for the J71 Automatic parking brake depends on the model year, I think they stopped including them in about 1999, so any P32 coaches built between then and when production stopped on the P32 in 2006 will only have the fake yellow button, which is nothing more than a power switch that kills power to the APB and leaves it in the park brake applied position.
__________________
2002 Safari Trek 2830 on P32 Chassis with 8.1L w/ 400 watts solar 420Ah LiFePo4
2017 Jeep Cherokee Overland & 2007 Toyota Yaris TOADs with Even Brake,
Demco Commander tow bar and Blue Ox / Roadmaster base plates
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09-05-2020, 08:33 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmilingSam
no most j71 had both.....
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I'm not sure which of my questions to the OP you were answering with a "no", but I'd like to wait until were hear from the OP, because I'm not sure you have your facts correct.
IMO, "Most" P32s don't have both, and I do know that the brake shoes are SPRING applied and hydralically released by the J71. I'm having trouble understanding how the same shoes ( in the drum on the DS ) can be applied by a spring - OR- a cable. I believe the hand or foot applied parking brake cable most likely went to the rear wheel brake drum(s) to apply the PB on those lighter GVWR chassis that did not have the J71 package. But, I've been wrong before
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