 |
|
12-05-2007, 08:51 AM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 904
|
After dropping the motorhome off in Pahrump, we drove home in the Jeep. We drove back Friday (11/30) to pick it up.
Now we get into miracle territory. The job was done right the first time for the agreed upon price and the motorhome was not damaged in any way. This is a first for me. The dealer was Pahrump Valley Auto Plaza (a Chevrolet and other GM dealer). They treated my motorhome like it was gold. They put it in a special RV bay and never moved it. There were no greasy handprints or footprints anywhere. I just could not have been happier with the way the repair went.
We went for a check ride with the primary tech and everything worked perfectly. The next day, I went for a longer test ride and everything checked out.
We finished the day by driving back into Death Valley (not towing just yet). After enjoying DV for another day, we drove it home. We didn't tow until we cleared the first two passes.
The new engine does seem crisper and the engine braking seems better and the oil pressure is higher (~55-60psi hot).
I am still not sure why engine #1 checked out on me. One possibility is bad gas. I had fueled up at a brand X gas station and that was the fuel in the engine when it quit. Another is my fuel regulator. The tech replaced it to cure a hot starting (too rich) problem. Maybe Towne pass at 9% is just too much for this engine. Bottom line is, I don't know.
I will probably never go up a hill again without wondering if I will make it to the top. I hope that there have been some internal improvements that will prevent the new engine from eating itself.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
|
|
|
 |
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
12-05-2007, 08:51 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 904
|
After dropping the motorhome off in Pahrump, we drove home in the Jeep. We drove back Friday (11/30) to pick it up.
Now we get into miracle territory. The job was done right the first time for the agreed upon price and the motorhome was not damaged in any way. This is a first for me. The dealer was Pahrump Valley Auto Plaza (a Chevrolet and other GM dealer). They treated my motorhome like it was gold. They put it in a special RV bay and never moved it. There were no greasy handprints or footprints anywhere. I just could not have been happier with the way the repair went.
We went for a check ride with the primary tech and everything worked perfectly. The next day, I went for a longer test ride and everything checked out.
We finished the day by driving back into Death Valley (not towing just yet). After enjoying DV for another day, we drove it home. We didn't tow until we cleared the first two passes.
The new engine does seem crisper and the engine braking seems better and the oil pressure is higher (~55-60psi hot).
I am still not sure why engine #1 checked out on me. One possibility is bad gas. I had fueled up at a brand X gas station and that was the fuel in the engine when it quit. Another is my fuel regulator. The tech replaced it to cure a hot starting (too rich) problem. Maybe Towne pass at 9% is just too much for this engine. Bottom line is, I don't know.
I will probably never go up a hill again without wondering if I will make it to the top. I hope that there have been some internal improvements that will prevent the new engine from eating itself.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 09:01 AM
|
#3
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: beaver dam wisconsin
Posts: 44
|
good luck sometime thing happens we have 40k on ours it runing beter day after day merry xmass to you and all
__________________
2008 phaeton QRH Gerry Sandy &Holly the boss
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 10:17 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 4,419
|
Don't force it up any more long steep grades while winding it beyond the torque range and you'll be fine.
__________________
TandW
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 10:30 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 904
|
You got me curious here. What RPM constitutes the 'torque range'?
The tach was sitting at about 3000 RPM when it started detonation, is this too much?
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 10:40 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Washington State
Posts: 229
|
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by T&W:
Don't force it up any more long steep grades while winding it beyond the torque range and you'll be fine. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> I have to ask, for my own peace of mind.
Should I not depend on the rev limiter? I'm hard pressed into believing these engines are that fragile.
__________________
Corkey & Dana
2008 HR Endeavor (DIP) PDQ
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 10:45 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 4,419
|
Who finished first; the tortoise or the hare?
__________________
TandW
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 12:13 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Jayco Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,183
|
Bruceh, great follow up report. You're smart to break in the new engine without the toad attached.
Glad to hear the new engine is working good and you got your MH back in good shape.
As far as the first engine, it was probably just your turn in the barrel. The concept of "zero defects" in factories is just not attainable.
__________________
DonavonP
2016 Jayco White Hawk 27dsrl
US Army 1968-70 SETAF 559th Vicenza Italy
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 12:36 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,775
|
Bruceh--
What type and weight oil did you go with, and why?
Good luck and best wishes with your new engine,
__________________
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 01:20 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 904
|
I have no idea what kind of oil is in there. It is whatever GM put in there when they built the engine.
I am leaning toward sticking to dino oil since there is this unpleasant coincidence. I realize that this is not 100% rational but fear and superstition have their place too.
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 02:10 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Dalton Ma/Crystal River Fl
Posts: 574
|
Go and enjoy your motorhome. Have not heard of many catastrophic failures such as yours. Break it in properly and try to keep RPM`s below 4000 and you should be fine.
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 03:17 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Zephyrhills, FL
Posts: 935
|
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bruceh:
You got me curious here. What RPM constitutes the 'torque range'?
The tach was sitting at about 3000 RPM when it started detonation, is this too much? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
FWIW
My manual says maximum torque output is at 3,200 RPM.
__________________
'14 Winnebago Vista 35F, '14 GMC Terrain BlueOx Towing Pkg, SMI Stay-n-Play 49 States & 7 Provinces visited in MH | WIT W112365
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 04:40 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Forest River Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 3,251
|
I hope these 8.1's aren't that fragile either.
I'm not sure what the torque range is ; but I almost always need 46, 4800 RPM and several times my engine has shut down for a millisecond as it was bouncing off the rev limiter @ 5000 RPM.
I have 'no clue' how you guys can climb mountains, especially pulling something, and say you don't go over 3000 RPM. I doubt if I could go across I-70, empty if I could'nt go over 3000 RPM. These engines better toughen up, here in Colorado anyway.
It's funny, when I think of a high reving engine, I think of a little 4 cylinder or maybe a Motorcycle engine. This big block should'nt need wrap out 4500/ 5000 RPM but it does. I even bought some oil that said it was for high reving engines.
No other SUV or Pickup engine that I own has to rev that high.
These buses need diesel engines.
__________________
Max49
2018 Forest River Georgetown F-53
'08 Jeep Wrangler Toad
Denver, Colorado
|
|
|
12-05-2007, 04:58 PM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pacific Northwest or SoCal
Posts: 3,035
|
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by max49:
I hope these 8.1's aren't that fragile either.
I'm not sure what the torque range is ; but I almost always need 46, 4800 RPM and several times my engine has shut down for a millisecond as it was bouncing off the rev limiter @ 5000 RPM. I have 'no clue' how you guys can climb mountains, especially pulling something, and say you don't go over 3000 RPM. I doubt if I could go across I-70, empty if I could'nt go over 3000 RPM. These engines better toughen up, here in Colorado anyway. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Max, I follow your thoughts, you can't make it over I-70 at 3,000RPM.
Fred
__________________
Fred and Bonnie
2005 Dolphin LX 6375
Abby, Ruffles & Scarlett, "The Cats"
|
|
|
 |
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|