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Robwheeler · 03-29-2021, 12:28 AM

Hello all.
I’m working on some electrical charging issues on a 97 fleetwood storm on a Chevy p37 with a 454.
I currently am not getting power from the alternator small pink wire with key in on position. I believe it’s called the “L” pin, but do have power to the main and smaller red wires
I also have no power to the fuses in the engine compartment labeled ISO relay ignotion and chassis disconnect ignition.
My main disconnect switch in the cabin is not activating the solenoid in the engine compartment with the usual clunk that you hear when you turn them on or off. I’m trying to figure out the best approach to tracing these problems. I recently changed the alt start solenoid,( upper right of second photo)? And hoping I didn’t screw somthing up.
Thanks in advance.
Rob

BobJan · 03-29-2021, 06:08 PM

Check the main switch you mentioned first to be sure it’s closing the contacts. It’s called a “ladder diagram” and reads between 12v pos and 12v neg. If no change in voltage: jump it out. Hope this helps.
Bob

Robwheeler · 03-29-2021, 11:39 PM

Thanks! I jumped between the reds from top to bottom, (bypassing switch), and got no change. I’ll check for power next. Do you know what powers the switch? Does if come from the battery/fuses, then back out to the solenoid?
I have reached out to fleetwood for a wiring diagram but to no avail.
Thanks for your input!

twinboat · 03-30-2021, 04:02 AM

I marked the battery disconnect with a green circle.

The item marked with the red X is the isolation, charging, boost start, aux battery solenoid.

Click image for larger version

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udid · 04-03-2021, 10:05 PM

If I were you I would change the...

B.I.R.D

Isolator relay delay

Robwheeler · 04-14-2021, 11:17 PM

So while tracing this issue, I found
This generic 5 pin relay was tied to my main relay for the chassis disconnect,(red circle in photo). A red wire that comes out of the fuse box goes to that and a small red wire then goes to my disconnect switch. I tied the two red wires together and the switch now works. I put a new 5 pin relay in because my electric step is tied to it. I don’t understand why I would have a relay there but so be it. It seems to be working so far. I now have to be sure the disconnect solenoid is actually opening and closing, but at least I have the “clunk”. I talked to a local RV repair shop and he suggested to get rid of the BIRD altogether and wanted to know your thoughts. I disconnected it for now as I try to isolate issues and so far no problems. I tied the two wires together to bypass it.
I’ll keep you posted. And thanks again.

donr103 · 04-15-2021, 07:46 PM

i believe you must be 2nd owner.. i bet previous owner had problems with disconnect sw and added relay to boost power to disconnect sw.. smart.. i just had same problem with my 2000. so looking at that pict it shows they look original that is over 20yrs old. i replaced mine for 2es under 100.00 and later took oem apart and found they just needed cleaned up and all new hardware.. but a lot of time. you choose the way you want to go.. before touching them or replacing them take cell ph picts.. a lot and repair one at time. BE WARNED.. My old ones stranded me 3 times and i was lucky it was at the heavy truck repair shop for spring work.. but they could not figure it out.. and i would replace the AUX start relay as well.. the AUX start relay does more then aux start.. it ties the coach and chassis batts together so alt can charge coach batts, so it has to work all the time and they are too small. i would not take bird off unless you want, i would replace.. clean dirt off very top of bird and you can use cell phone to rec picts of part number.. good luck.. most of us has been there!! ALSO TAKE TERMIANLS OFF ALL BATTS BOTH COACH AND CHASSIS AND TAKE PICTS OF THOSE sorry almost forgot.. and label a few thing or zip tie.. just incase you get on road and forget where goes where