Bleeding Brakes Old Fashion Way

[max49]

The old fashion 2 person style.
I sucked out all the old fluid from the master cylinder and replaced with new. I did'nt have some one at the time to sit in the seat and pump and hold the pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder, but I will within the next couple of weeks.
I'm just wondering for who has done it this way, did you have the engine running so the pedal is a little easier or is it just as well to do it with the engine off, quieter, and easier to hear each other, but a harder pedal push.
I'd rather do it with the engine off but it seems possible that it would be more difficult to feel the best solid and high pedal feel.
How'd you guys do it?

On edit, is a full master cylinder enough to change fluid to both rear wheels? Or do I have to either ask my wife to refill it or crawl out and fill it my self after the right rear wheel? Should I have the master cylinder lid on , or can I have it off during the bleeding process. I know these seem like rookie questions but it's been a long time since I bled brakes, but if I'm going to do it, I'd like to do it right.

[bluepill]

I usually do it engine off because most of the time I'm inside the shop and like to keep the noise & fumes to a minimum. Sometimes I use both feet on the pedal to make it a bit easier on my (OLD) back.

[jfran304]

Engine off and the wife pumping the pedal. With the bleeder valve open the pedal isn't that hard to push.

[JimM68]

Just plain old gravity can work pretty well. just open the bleeder valves at each wheel, and check the level ion the master every couple hours.

Note, while I only know the "good ole days" I think I may have read something somewhere about ABS brakes being a little more complicated to bleed out. I think a pressure bleeder is needed, and there may be one or more buttons / valves that need to be pushed.

[VanDiemen23]

One word:

"SPEEDBLEEDERS"

Compared to all the nonsense we spend money on in RVs these are a no-brainer if you get to the point of having to bleed the brakes.

Just open 'em up, pump until the new fluid is there, and close 'em. I do put I tiny zip tie around the bleeder hose on the other side of the "bump" - I've found it's too easy to leak air there - it doesn't affect your bleeding because it's on the other side of the valve, but it makes you think you have to keep bleeding because of the air that gets in.

My race car has eight bleeders. I made a rig that's 4 into 2, run those into a coffee can, and do the right side and then the left. You always want to do a front and back together to get a full stroke on the MC.

The BEST - hands down - reasonably priced brake fluid is ATE. Highest boiling temp before you get into really exotic stuff. They make a blue and a gold. the purpose of the dye is to show when all the old stuff is pushed out. You do a change with blue, and the next time with gold.

Valvoline used to make a full synthetic, but they dropped that and the replacement stuff - white bottle with blue label, is crap - as is all the store brand stuff. Castrol LMA is good but pricey.

You only have to worry about ABS if you are bleeding the ABS valve block.

FRS radios make the communications a lot easier.

[ottffss]

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

[DriVer]

As of the latest information here on this site, Speedbleeder has not made a compatible device for P Series brake calipers. Oemy is able to get a hold of SBs for W Series chassis (Bosch).

The tried and true 2 man bleed works well on the P series and as well as simple gravity bleed.

[max49]

Originally Posted by ottffss

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

I know the speed bleeders look pretty cool , but since this is the first time I have ever changed brake fluid in 62 years, I'll just do it the 'ole fashion way'.
Thanks for all the tips guys, I'll do it with the engine off, my wife has strong legs.

[DriVer]

Originally Posted by max49

Thanks for all the tips guys, I'll do it with the engine off, my wife has strong legs.

Good luck Max!

[max49]

Originally Posted by DriVer

Good luck Max!

Thanks Driver, you have'nt talked to me for so long, I thought you were mad at me. Is there an underlying message in that "Good Luck"? Am I doing something wrong.
I miss bickerin with ya

[DriVer]

Originally Posted by max49

Thanks Driver, you have'nt talked to me for so long, I thought you were mad at me.

Max, I think you've been too busy plowing snow off the top of that mountain of yours. Come "no mo snow time" I'm sure we'll get back into fracas mode.

[wa8yxm]

If you are working on a large vehicle, Like a motor home.. There may be more to it (or not, depending on the unit)

I have never started the engine when bleeding brakes on a car. And that includes a few times where i was the "inside man" at a professional shop working with a professional "Outside man". (Inside/outside make sense if you have ever done a 2 man bleed) .

[DriVer]

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

If you are working on a large vehicle, Like a motor home.. There may be more to it (or not, depending on the unit)

I have never started the engine when bleeding brakes on a car. And that includes a few times where i was the "inside man" at a professional shop working with a professional "Outside man". (Inside/outside make sense if you have ever done a 2 man bleed) .

On a Workhorse, IF the engine is not running, I expect that the emergency hi-pressure pump will kick in as soon as you hit the brake pedal. This would therefore preclude the need to start the engine to bleed the vehicle. (Speed Bleeders obsolesce this concern)

Vacuum brakes on the other hand can still be bled w/o vacuum in the brake booster however it probably would be easier with the engine running.

Just have to make sure not to release the pedal with the bleeder open regardless of what system is being bled.

[Steve N Sal]

Engine "OFF" for me. Gonna order some of those Speed Bleeders though.