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Old 01-02-2009, 09:37 AM   #43
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The first time I did it it took almost 3 qts. But, then the fluid was 3 years old. This time it only took 2 qts as the fluid was only 1 year old.
That's good!!!
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:15 PM   #44
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Ok smarty...

I will clarify that statement. I used more the first time do to the fact that fluid was much more contaminated and it took more to flush the system. Also, I probably errored on the liberal side to make sure I completely flushed the lines and calipers.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:40 PM   #45
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DRIVER,
what i meant was that the old brake fluid bled from my calipers was dark colored, not opaque, and there were no solids in it. the fluid was probably at least 7 years old. i have definitely seen a lot worse from 4 wheelers (trucks and cars) and NONE of them had brake lockup or stuck caliper problems.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:45 PM   #46
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I would buy 2 qts and a couple of pints
Dale: Since you are "into" clarifing statements, ...... just how much different is that from three quarts?

YES, I understand we might not need to crack open that last pint. ED
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Old 01-02-2009, 01:34 PM   #47
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OK Ed...

Normally I would buy just quarts... But, do to the fact that brake fluid starts to absorb water as soon as you open it I figure that last quart is better purchased in pints.

On Edit - Fix spelling
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Old 01-02-2009, 01:45 PM   #48
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Originally posted by oemtech:
OK Ed...

Normally I would by just quarts... But, do to the fact that brake fluid starts to absorb water as soon as you open it I figure that last quart is better purchased in pints.


Lots of humidity down Texas way Ed.


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Old 01-02-2009, 02:38 PM   #49
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YES, I understand
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Old 01-02-2009, 04:34 PM   #50
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I went into a Ford dealer today and he couldn't find the part #PM1/FIR 002092 nor could he tell me what size they were. He gave me PM-1-C FIR 174922 which were 12 OZ containers.
How much do I need? I bought 5 containers but is that enough?
I can't find any specific reference to the amount needed. Since I will be doing this in the middle of the desert (will recycle the fluid), I would like to have enough.
Thanks.
Ford charged $4.95 for 12 OZ and Autozone wanted $5.95 for 32 oz but theirs had about an 30-50.f lower boiling point.
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Old 01-02-2009, 04:52 PM   #51
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One more question. Looking at the master cylinder - which side is the chamber for the front and which is for the rear brakes? Right or left? Since I should bleed the rears first. I would assume that I should fill that chamber ist.
Thanks.
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:49 PM   #52
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JCM,

As far as I can tell the master cylinder has a common well to about 3/4 of the way down. Just remove as much of the old fluid as possible and refill it. It will take 1.5 quarts to refill the master cylinder and another 1/2 quart to bleed the lines. But, I would get 2 pints extra (yes that is 1 quart ED) just in case. You can always put it in your spare parts box.

You bleed the brakes from the one that is the longest distance from the master cylinder to the shortest. PSR, DSR, PSF, DSF.

You can go to Wal Mart and get DOT 3 for $3.47 a quart. Cheap enough to change yearly. That's what I used last year. This year I was to lazy to drive to Wal Mart when I was 50 yds from O'Reily's Auto Parts eating Mickey "D's" breakfast and drinking coffee.
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:40 AM   #53
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Instead of using an 'extractor', has anyone here tried the Motive Products Brake Bleeder? Connects at the brake fluid reservoir and then uses air pressure to 'push' the fluid rather than 'pull' using vacuum pressure. I haven't bought one yet, I'm waiting for a reply back on which adaptors I need for a Workhorse chassis, Chevrolet Suburban and two German vehicles. Different vehicles use different sized 'caps' or adaptors, so if you want to use this on multiple vehicles, you may need a different adaptors for say, a Chevy and a Ford.

http://store.motiveproducts.co...009&Count2=902198433


Information from a website:

How does it work? A tank containing hydraulic fluid is connected to the fluid reservoir on your vehicle and pressurized with air from a hand pump (the precision pressure gauge ensures that the hydraulic system is not damaged due to excessive pressure). When one of the bleed valves on the vehicle is opened, old hydraulic fluid is expelled as new fluid from the tank is forced into the system.

Bleeding has never been easier. There's no need for a helper to constantly pump the pedal while you open and close the bleed valves. And the 2 liter tank prevents the need for constant refilling of the fluid reservoir, thereby avoiding corrosive spills.

Pressure bleeding provides the best results, even on the most difficult hydraulic systems (including most cars with ABS brakes) The POWER BLEEDER'sTM heavy duty tank holds up to 2 quarts of fluid, enough to fully flush and clean the hydraulic system without the need to refill the tank. The precision pressure gauge prevents over pressurization and the custom machined adapter securely attaches to the fluid reservoir for the safest and most effective operation. The hand-operated pump is built in-no other pressure source (air compressor, spare tire) is needed. Fast, easy and reliable one-person operation. Works on hydraulic clutch systems, too.


A product review in .pdf format:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/...nload/euroReview.pdf


And lastly, a YouTube video on how to use it:
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Old 01-03-2009, 08:24 AM   #54
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That sounds good Richard. Please keep us posted on how it goes for you.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:30 PM   #55
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Our local tire shop tried to use one of those machines on my W22 but it wouldn't fit on the top of the master cylinder - there just wasn't enough room.
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Old 01-03-2009, 04:39 PM   #56
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I have a DIY version just waiting to be built for about $20. Just need to get the parts together and test it.
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