Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-31-2009, 08:24 PM   #1
Senior Member
gorwig's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 158
Brake caliper flare nut question

Last fall, as part of one of the typical reported caliper problems, I had a couple calipers and all four flexible brake lines replaced (among other odds and ends). Everything has gone ok since, but I have one nagging issue. At the flare nut where the flex line enters the caliper, I have brake fluid seepage on a couple of the calipers. It is enough to leave a drop on the driveway every day or two. It also causes the lower area of the caliper to rust like crazy.

I have an 11mm flare nut wrench, and I've tightened these nuts to the point where I'm afraid to tighten them more, for fear of stripping the threads. This has slowed the seepage, but it has not stopped it. These nuts are a shiny silver, not brass as I have seen on some cars. They do not corrode, so are they something like stainless steel that can take more aggressive tightening than "soft" flare nuts?

I keep telling myself that a bit of seepage could be good in that it brings fresh fluid into the caliper, but I can't quite convince myself! Besides, in my motorhome I have about 1 inch clearance above the master cylinder, so it is a major pain to check or add brake fluid!
Gary Orwig

2014 Tiffin Allegro Open Road 34TGA
gorwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free! RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-31-2009, 09:16 PM   #2
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Roving, Datastorm users 3192
Posts: 755
You should not have seepage. Though there is a low-fluid sensor, and that should save you from a "no fluid" stop (not a fun thing, trust me on that) you should not have seepage, seepage = poor workmanship by repair shop. Have 'em fix it
Nothing adds excitement like something that is none of your business.
2005 Damon Intruder 377W Radio Active as WA8YXM
John-D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 01:09 PM   #3
Senior Member
Max Hubrich's Avatar
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,774
I'd tighten those bad boys as tight as I can get them-- I'd even consider using a little hammer pressure on the wrench.

If it's coming from the bleeder screws -----

I'd go to a Workhorse parts business and get a couple (maybe four) new bleeder screws. Have them in your hand and remove the old one and put in the new one immediately. Tighten them down good with a 6 point box wrench, or 6 point socket wrench. Top off the master cylinder. Wash everything off-- and wait and see. ------------

I see your using a flare nut wrench--I suggest using what I recommended on the bleeder screws.
Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
Max Hubrich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 06:12 PM   #4
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northwestern Montana
Posts: 3,460
Gary, the flare fitting on the flex line, and the female fitting on the caliper have seats, that must be clean, and free from scratches and debris of any kind. Try backing off the fitting a couple of rounds, let it drip a few drops of fluid, and then retighten. Sometimes this will cure the problem, If not, you will have to disconnect the line from the caliper and inspect both the line flare seat and the caliper seat. If you had these lines replaced at a business, and it is conveniently close, you may want to contact them about this leakage. Over tightening is not the answer, and could possibly damage the flare. You should be able to apply sufficient force to tighten the fitting with just the wrench you are using.

dieselclacker is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Aux tow brake install Oemtech Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 11 06-17-2010 08:34 PM
Brake light issues radsdad Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 10 12-19-2008 12:17 PM
W-20 brake caliper question RottenRalph Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 17 03-15-2008 07:46 PM
right rear brake caliper RICK SUSA Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 6 02-05-2008 03:14 PM
US Gear UTB brake light questions Horsepowerfan Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 4 08-28-2006 05:25 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:23 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.