Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat
And that wouldn't be the first time that happened.
They make box end heads that plug into torque wrench, but like you I torque most stuff by 55 years of wrenching.
I real torque wrench is for engine rebuilding.
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61 years here not counting the years before I was old enough to start working in a gas station where we did various mechanical repairs. I worked at three auto dealerships before I went into business for my self which accounted for the last 36 years. The last 20 years of my career I also owned an automotive machine shop where we built and rebuilt engines of all types and sizes plus other operations.
While torque values are generally set for different size fasteners one thing a lot of folks don't take into consideration is the strength or grade of a bolt or fastener. You will find the torque specs are normally higher for a grade 8 bolt than a grade 2 bolt even if they are the same diameter. Then of course we got into those torque to yield stretch one time use bolts where an outlined procedure must be followed to achieve the proper tightening.
All threads on a bolt and the threads of what the bolt is being screwed into must be clean and the threads should have a lube applied in most cases. A binding thread will give a false torque reading.
After a while you get a feel for how tight a bolt should be. In some cases you use the torque specs as a guide but a "darn good'n" torque will work. I never had things fall apart because I left a bolt, nut or screw loose. I've had instances where I've had to cut down an Allen or Torx socket just to be able to R&R a caliper bolt. No way are you going to get a torque wrench in a position to tighten some of these bolts.
Again, in the case of a rear axle with a backing plate and a brake bracket and caliper solidly attached to it is going to move up and down with the axle no matter how high you lift the frame the springs are attached to.
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