Community Forums

whb · 07-18-2007, 03:48 PM

For those of you that have lub the caliper
pins can you give me a step by step procedure.
Thanks
willieb

whb · 07-18-2007, 03:48 PM

For those of you that have lub the caliper
pins can you give me a step by step procedure.
Thanks
willieb

jebturin · 07-24-2007, 03:43 AM

I would be interested in that post myself.

Thudman · 07-24-2007, 10:49 AM

Try this website:

Brakes

Thudman

whb · 07-24-2007, 04:15 PM

I know how to do it on a car, as I was an mechanic for
30 years before I retired. I just need to know just how to do it on a Workhorse.
Thank You
willieb

Tenn.Vol. · 07-24-2007, 05:30 PM

I cant tell you how to do the PIN LUBE, but I can tell you how much
it cost to have the rear pads replaced and all 8 pins lubed in Webster,
Mass. After one pin sticks on the rear drivers side.

Pads are $160 and 3hr. of labor, $75/hr. for a grand total of $406.
the old pads look like new with a little (very little) HEAT STRESS,
on the side that stuck. WH has 32K miles on the clock..

The mechanic said he could lube just the pins in 2hr. and also
said that the the front pins were dry and that they would have
been next to stick. So I guess I will have them lubed yearly.
TENN.VOL.

Joe Gilbert · 07-26-2007, 02:28 PM

The "Brakes" link appears to be just general info. If anyone has the exact procedure and lube to use I would love that info.

I've done my Jeep and Tahoe as well as my previous F53 class-A. Still I would like the actual Workhors or GM procedure for the W22/24.

JCM · 07-26-2007, 04:56 PM

You must remove the wheels and then you can get to the pins on the back side of the calipers. Unscrew them - one at a time - lube with proper grease (have to check into that) and replace pins and wheels.

adj · 07-26-2007, 06:46 PM

Although I have not done this yet, I still see no reason to remove the wheels if you are just lubing the pins. They are accessible from the back side of the calipers.

Joe Gilbert · 07-29-2007, 07:12 AM

Great info, thanks. I can remove the wheels and have a torque wrench to handle the job however, if I can do the job without removing the wheels I will. I had the wheels off last month, just doing routine maintenance/inspection. I should have researched lubeing the pins at that time.

Unless there is a special lube I'll likely use a synthetic grease.

DriVer · 07-29-2007, 08:04 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by adj:
Although I have not done this yet, I still see no reason to remove the wheels if you are just lubing the pins.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>The folks at the TAC see this differently. They say that the wheels must be removed. I have posted to this type of question previously.

Using the "FIND" one might be able to find that content already posted on the board.

DriVer · 07-29-2007, 09:04 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Joe Gilbert:
Unless there is a special lube I'll likely use a synthetic grease. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I researched this and apparently you need to use a silicone based slide lube.

jebturin · 08-01-2007, 04:54 AM

I'm amazed how secretive Workhorse is about maintence and repair on their products. It seems we have very little information at all.
I guess they want their service centers to get the work but a lot of us can and would like to do the work ourselves.
A service person once told me things about my brake system that I know not to be true. I would have a hard time leaving my motorhome with them. It seems at least some of them share my ignorance about how my motorhome is put together.
It bothers me to read in this forum where someone had their caliper pins lubed and their brakes still seized. Did the service center, if it was a Workhorse service center, use the wrong lube? Driver used the term "apparently you need silicone based slide lube". Why can't we find out for sure what lube to use???
Apparently Workhorse does not have techs that customers can talk to. The techs only talk to service centers. And I understand the problems and even the cost to them of providing this service but we, the customers, need it.
I'll get off of my soap box now and go try to bleed my brakes to try to get my Workhorse(ABS) light to go off.
I feel better now.

edgray · 08-01-2007, 05:42 AM

jebturin: I'm not sure "secretive" is fair. Have you downloaded the Chassis Maintanence Guide using the highlighted thread above? It is free, and will not answer all your questions, and is NOT a technical service manual, but it can be a good reference source.

The lack of officially distributed service info for the consumer's use is, unfortunately, a by-product of our lawsuit happy culture. The dealer's liability insurance covers the work they perform, and "protects" OEMs from consumer lawsuits which often begin with "you failed to warn me about.....". Ed