Broken exhaust bolt

[Daveinet]

So I just fixed my leaking donut only to find that I have a broken exhaust bolt. So the ugly question is, do I even try to remove the other bolts? They look super wimpy and rusted away. What has been everyone else's luck in getting them out?

Also once repaired, do they just break again, or are there new bolts that are more robust?

[exrench]

I would guess that you are referring to your exhaust manifold studs and yes they break and can be a challenge to remove. I have, in the past, soaked the unbroken studs with a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (50-50) on a daily basis fora week and then just wound the studs and rusted nuts out. The broken one was more of a challenge and I needed to MIG weld a nut on the broken stump and wind it out. I have had to do both manifolds. There is much written on this forum on this subject. Note: I could not see any evidence that the penetrating oil concoction had actually penetrated the threads. Would I repeat the process? Yeah,probably!

[Daveinet]

Originally Posted by exrench

... Note: I could not see any evidence that the penetrating oil concoction had actually penetrated the threads. Would I repeat the process? Yeah,probably!

Yeah, how do you flip the engine on its side, so it can run down hill. For nearly anything I have sprayed penetrant on, I've never pulled the bolt out and seen oil down in the threads.

Hey I just stumbled on something later this morning. Basically its a bracket that bolts on over the broken stud. Then another bolt threads through the bracket to push down on the manifold. I think its made by Kral.

[FarmerB4]

Originally Posted by Daveinet

Yeah, how do you flip the engine on its side, so it can run down hill. For nearly anything I have sprayed penetrant on, I've never pulled the bolt out and seen oil down in the threads.

Hey I just stumbled on something later this morning. Basically its a bracket that bolts on over the broken stud. Then another bolt threads through the bracket to push down on the manifold. I think its made by Kral.

Could you post a link to this ?

[CJ7365]

Originally Posted by FarmerB4

Could you post a link to this ?

Here you go.

https://kralautoparts.com/

[vettenuts]

I didn’t attempt mine because I don’t have a welder, which was needed to remove one broken stud. The remainder backed out. I did supply ARP stainless studs, nuts, bolts and washers to the facility doing the work for reinstallation of the manifold. I listed the part numbers and provided photos in another thread on this forum.

[Arch Hoagland]

Mine has been in the shop a couple times for exhaust manifolds. Each time the shop told me they had a heck of a time with them.

Got a new head when they drilled through the water jacket trying to remove a bolt.

My life to live over.....I'd get after market headers.

[70ChevelleSS]

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

Mine has been in the shop a couple times for exhaust manifolds. Each time the shop told me they had a heck of a time with them.

Got a new head when they drilled through the water jacket trying to remove a bolt.

My life to live over.....I'd get after market headers.

Had to weld a nut on the end of one stud, drill out another. New studs and new Doug Thorley headers.

[exrench]

Originally Posted by CJ7365

Here you go.

https://kralautoparts.com/

If you elect to try this device,be aware that in most cases, the manifold will have to be removed anyway ,as the gasket will have blown out at the area of the broken stud. (that's what drew your attention to the manifold leak in the first place). In any event,with the manifold off,and if the challenge is such that you will have to resort to drilling,these would probably be an option. Otherwise,upgraded studs,as Vettnut suggested or header$ to put an end to the issue.

[whem2fish]

Dave done this many times I'll pm you

[whem2fish]

Pm sent

[Daveinet]

I did try to weld a nut on one of the studs. Broke off the stud deeper in the hole. The engine sits too low in the frame to get an impact on the bolts. I discovered a second bolt is broken off deep into the head. No way to weld a nut onto that stud.

Looks like this one is going to be the big ugly. Wish I knew of a good shop that is also cheap. I only know of one Truck/RV shop. They do good work, but the cost is pretty steep. Not unfair, no chance of a good deal either.

[exrench]

Do not attempt to weld the nut on the stud first. Weld a thick flat washer to the stud first. Grind any plating off the washer, If you leave the plating in place,it will foul the weld. Using the washer MAY give you a better look at the stud from a weldability standpoint. I have been able to reach down to a stud broken slightly below the surface. Use a 240 volt MIG welder for this- not a stick welder. Also do not try it with a low powered MIG designed for sheet metal. Once the washer is welded to the stud,weld a good sized nut to the weld "lump" on the washer. Run a drill bit through the nut and grind the top and bottom of the nut to remove the plating(the sides should not be ground to accept the socket for removal). Good luck.

[FarmerB4]

Originally Posted by exrench

Do not attempt to weld the nut on the stud first. Weld a thick flat washer to the stud first. Grind any plating off the washer, If you leave the plating in place,it will foul the weld. Using the washer MAY give you a better look at the stud from a weldability standpoint. I have been able to reach down to a stud broken slightly below the surface. Use a 240 volt MIG welder for this- not a stick welder. Also do not try it with a low powered MIG designed for sheet metal. Once the washer is welded to the stud,weld a good sized nut to the weld "lump" on the washer. Run a drill bit through the nut and grind the top and bottom of the nut to remove the plating(the sides should not be ground to accept the socket for removal). Good luck.

THIS X2