I've been working on coaches (moho's) since 1980. Here is my 2 cents worth. first, some brake pads come with anti-squeal stainless steel shims built onto the pads. They will be at least $100 for a set for both rear wheels. These pads are what keep the brakes from locking up. With no stainless shims you should use a coat of silicon on the back of the pad to allow the caliper to "release" after it has been applied. Silicon will work in a pinch but wears out fast!!!!
You must have one or the other or you will end up with what you have now. I've seen mechanics throw away the stainless shims, they can be reused over and over again until they are damaged and no longer will stay in place. I prefer the shims because I believe they work better.
When a caliper fails to retract you end up with glazed pads. The surface on the pad gets hard, kind of like a glazed candy. It reduces the braking ability of the pad and causes very hot rotors. Some times you can sand the glaze off the pad if it isn't very deep and save the pad. I also sand the rotor a little. Most of the time it is better to replace the pad and turn the rotor or replace the rotor.
You have to bleed the brakes on all 4 wheels when you replace one caliper or open they hydraulic brake system. No way to get around that. usually at least 3 hours work on a moho.
When the rotor has become blue from the heat it needs to be replaced because it has become "tempered" like a hard knife blade. This means that it will just eat the brake pad and will brake at a different rate than the other side putting stress on the vehicle axle. Which eventually will cause all sorts of other problems, especially with anti-lock brakes.
I would suggest you replace both rear calipers so they brake at the same rate, replace both rear rotors and both rear sets of pads, making sure that they have stainless steel anti-squeal shims. Not doing this will mean that you or someone else will have to revisit the problem in a short time.
Caliper frames.... the thing that the caliper fits into.... can become rusted and PITTED so bad that the caliper just will not release after braking. No amount of sanding or surfacing will make them better, you just have to replace them. When it is time for that, hang on to your billfold, it will hurt worse that a wasp sting....
Axle seals....yes on the new seals, and douple big yes on the RTV sealant on new seals!!!
Towing, moho's can be towed from the front or back, it depends on the size of the tow truck. However, a good driver will use the "hammer" technique to get the caliper to release. Did that for while too....
Lastly, cost..... Warranty companies have caused most mechanic shops to use the flat rate book because they know that the warranty company will want to negotiate down their prices. Your can do the same thing...... each shop has different overheads. Some own their own the property they sit on, others must rent. Some owners Lease all of their equipment, others buy and maintain it themselves...... Some owners feel that they must make the same $$$$ as the president of the united states, other don't. The fella doing the work , is just an hourly employee.... so it is all about the overhead....
Ok, so it ended up 4 cents worth....(overhead)
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