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Paul and Sue · 12-27-2006, 09:17 AM

I am starting to get a few check engine light coming on with the power reducing message. I am out of warranty but still getting them checked. Two times was a P0220 throttle control low voltage and P0463 for fuel level sensor. Each was checked and found to be OK. It should be noted that each time it was in the moring first start up and on the cold side (35-40) but does not happen all the time.

The tech is saying it could be a low battery but the battery checks out OK. The battery is 3 years old AC Delco. Would I be chasing the problem with a new battery?

Paul and Sue · 12-27-2006, 09:17 AM

I am starting to get a few check engine light coming on with the power reducing message. I am out of warranty but still getting them checked. Two times was a P0220 throttle control low voltage and P0463 for fuel level sensor. Each was checked and found to be OK. It should be noted that each time it was in the moring first start up and on the cold side (35-40) but does not happen all the time.

The tech is saying it could be a low battery but the battery checks out OK. The battery is 3 years old AC Delco. Would I be chasing the problem with a new battery?

DriVer · 12-27-2006, 12:23 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Paul and Sue:
Would I be chasing the problem with a new battery? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm not sure what that means but I have resolved low-volt codes by replacing my automotive battery.

I am using at the moment a product called "Battery Minder" to keep a trickle charge on my battery during periods of disuse.

This product is available from our primary sponsor RV Upgrades. Just click on the picture for additional information.

Full-Timers · 12-27-2006, 06:20 PM

The only time I had a reduced power light was when I had a low battery. It was so low though that I had to use the battery switch to parallel chassis and coach batteries to start it.

Paul and Sue · 12-27-2006, 07:40 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Paul and Sue:
Would I be chasing the problem with a new battery? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I'm not sure what that means but I have resolved low-volt codes by replacing my automotive battery.

Chasing the problem:
They think it is the battery, I replace the battery and that is not the problem. Then they think it is something else then I replace that and it is not the problem and this goes on until you replace everything just to find the real problem.

Mahlon · 12-28-2006, 04:56 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Paul and Sue:
<snip> The battery is 3 years old AC Delco. Would I be chasing the problem with a new battery? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
At 3 years old, your chassis battery is either at the end of its life or, at least, on borrowed time. Just replace it.

DriVer · 12-28-2006, 06:22 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Paul and Sue: </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Essentially we're driving a huge computer. 1st rule of the day, assure proper grounds. Second most important, assure adequate voltage to run all the computers. You might think that a properly functioning alternator levels the playing field when the vehicle is running but if the battery is sulfated or if it has an internal short or bad cell this would cause poor performance if the battery is allowed to stand idle. I have seen defective brand new batteries so its not too uncommon to have a 3 year old battery present problems at this point in its service.

The battery minder by the way via its electronic circuitry not only trickle charges the battery but it more importantly de-sulfates the plates. De-sulphation as I understand it is when you knock off a sulfur molecule off of the plate and put it back into the battery acid (sulphuric acid {H2SO4})

Changing the battery at this point in your ownership is not the worst thing you can do.

Rule out the grounds and battery and then move on to plan B if a problem exists.

Freddy · 01-02-2007, 01:38 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:

I am using at the moment a product called "Battery Minder" to keep a trickle charge on my battery during periods of disuse.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

This device has saved me lots of $$$. I used to buy a battery for my boat every summer. I bought one of these a few years ago, and wouldn't be without it now. No longer have the boat, so I use it each time we park the MH for storage. I'm on my original set of MH batteries, and haven't had the first (knock on wood) problem with them. I also make sure that the cells are always filled with distilled water.