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Old 09-20-2019, 11:37 AM   #1
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Can towing a P32 Workhorse chassis with Auto Park sytem stuck ?,

Can towing a 1996 Bounder, P32 Workhorse Chassis, J71 Ver II Auto Park Brake System, Destroy/Damage the Reverse (only), 4L80E-4 Speed Transmission?

Trying to find an Reliable/Expert for this okay, in the Henderson/Las Vegas area.
Any Recommendations. I'm doing this at Arms length as I'm in ILLINOIS Now.
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Old 09-20-2019, 11:52 AM   #2
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Not an expert but have a little knowledge.

Usually for a full tow, the tow truck guy disconnects the drive line.

With the drive line disconnected, the engine and tranni don't turn. As far as autopark goes, check with OldUsedBear's web site and shoot him a message. He's the expert on disconnecting that system. But not sure that's needed as the autopark brake generally uses a drive line brake and that can be disabled easily enough.

When I disconnected my drive line park brake in my '94 Bounder, it was a simple matter of releasing something or zip tying something...can't remember. It can also be adjusted so the brake shoe doesn't contact the drum when in the Park position. But it was obvious when looking at it as it was just a standard drum brake...though slightly smaller then a car's and only took a few minutes to figure out.
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Old 09-20-2019, 12:54 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by muskybill View Post
Can towing a 1996 Bounder, P32 Workhorse Chassis, J71 Ver II Auto Park Brake System, Destroy/Damage the Reverse (only), 4L80E-4 Speed Transmission?

Trying to find an Reliable/Expert for this okay, in the Henderson/Las Vegas area.
Any Recommendations. I'm doing this at Arms length as I'm in ILLINOIS Now.
Are you asking if it is Ok to tow the RV with the driveshaft still in place ??

Or has it been towed with the driveshaft installed and now the reverse doesn't work ??

it is never good idea to tow any automatic transmission equipped vehicle.
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:22 PM   #4
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I drove it 1900 miles to Las Vegas with idiot light on. Used forward and reverse without a problem. The tow truck driver towed it and I guess had no clue about My RV that he was towing. When he backed it up claimed my parking brake was on. He checked that is was not and seen the rear wheels were turning. So he towed it anyway. He backed it up to the gate as the mechanic asked. The next day the mechanic installed a fuel pump. Drove the truck turned it around, backed it up (no reverse problems), drove it into his yard. Installed new front brakes, then called me

the next day to come to the shop and see and then showed me it "Had no reverse." 4 forward gears work...

I'm wondering if the tow had damaged the reverse in the transmission. Or if it's something he doesn't understand about the "P32 Workhorse." That's what I don't understand. I'm not a mechanic. Looking for answers & solutions.
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:15 PM   #5
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If they towed it more the 15 to 20 miles, with the rear wheels on the ground, and did not disconnecting the driveshaft or pull at least one axle, transmission damage is a very strong possibility.

If he questioned the parking brake holding, he didn't disconnect anything.

Every tow truck driver should know that.
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Old 09-20-2019, 11:46 PM   #6
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I drove it 1900 miles to Las Vegas with idiot light on. Used forward and reverse without a problem. The tow truck driver towed it and I guess had no clue about My RV that he was towing. When he backed it up claimed my parking brake was on. He checked that is was not and seen the rear wheels were turning. So he towed it anyway. He backed it up to the gate as the mechanic asked. The next day the mechanic installed a fuel pump. Drove the truck turned it around, backed it up (no reverse problems), drove it into his yard. Installed new front brakes, then called me

the next day to come to the shop and see and then showed me it "Had no reverse." 4 forward gears work...

I'm wondering if the tow had damaged the reverse in the transmission. Or if it's something he doesn't understand about the "P32 Workhorse." That's what I don't understand. I'm not a mechanic. Looking for answers & solutions.
First, that idiot light you are talking about. Is it the Auto Park Light? There are a couple of reasons that light could have been on. One, the pressure switch that turns the light on could have just failed. That would not do any damage to the Auto Parking Brake System. Second, you could have actually had low hydraulic pressure, thus not having enough pressure to keep the Auto Park Brake Pads from engaging on the drum attached to the drive shaft. In that case, you would have worn out the brake pads. You should have smelled something? Or, the pump would be running all the time to build up pressure, and would have burnt itself up. Thus, the pads would be worn down to nothing. You should have noticed this, because anytime you put it in Park, the Motorhome would roll on any hill. So, I'm going to assume you had just a indication problem, causing the light to come on, since you never said you had a problem when the motorhome was parked.



Now, if he is going to tow the motorhome, he would have to disconnect the driveshaft. If not, the Auto Park Brake System would be engaged with the engine ignition switch in the off position. This would burn up the brake pads on the Drum Assembly. Now, the motorhome will move if being towed with a Tow Truck. in Park or the Emergency Brake set. It is not designed to completely keep a Motorhome immobile. Only Parking Paws can keep a vehicle complete immobile. Your Motorhome does not have a Parking Paw, only the Auto Park Brake System.

Go read the info on oldusedbears web site. lots of good info.
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:19 PM   #7
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Thank You for your input. Yes the Idiot light is the Auto Park Brake Light. I drove it the 1900 miles, I never smelt brakes burning or felt any drag in the forward or reverse gears. I did lose my brake pedal 160 miles from destination. I filled the Master cylinder and went on my way. My RV only has 38000 miles and had a very strong transmission. My RV was towed in neutral, with ignition in the on position. The driver not knowing the vehicle system, commented 3 or 4 times while backing it up only that it felt as if the parking brake was on.

What I don't understand is how and if this "Auto Park System" has anything to do with all of a sudden the reverse (only) going out in my transmission. To me (I'm not a mechanic) my reverse was not wearing out, or low on ATF fluid, something damaged the reverse in my tranny. The bands, solenoid, something. When my fuel pump went out the Tow truck driver mentioned multiple times that my emergency brake might be on. I checked as did he it was not. He towed it anyway, forward, reverse both multiple times. Backed it up to the gate as the mechanic had requested. The next day the mechanic jacked it up right there, installed the fuel pump. I told him that the tow truck driver noticed brake fluid were the right tire was sitting when he lifted it and pointed to me the fluid & dust on the rim and rotor looked bad. I told the mechanic, he turned it around, backed it up a couple times. Pulled it onto his yard, installed new Front- Rotors, Pads, Right caliper and bled the brakes. When finished I drove over to pick it up, he's sitting in the drivers seat with the dash up. Claiming he found blown fuses and that it goes into reverse but RV won't move. He shows me that the RV moves forward in all (4) drive gears. The next day he says it's the transmission. If it is what caused the Reverse (only) to suddenly go out. Perplexed and disgusted. Does anybody possibly know what caused this?(Mechanic knows nothing about the P32 Workhorse Chassis & Auto Park brake system.) Help Desperately needed.
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:33 PM   #8
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I don't think the Autopark Brake has anything to do with Rev going out. It only applies brakes to the drive shaft. And it's a friction thing. That means that with enough force, you can turn that shaft regardless of the brake being applied. Eventually if you turn it enough, it burns and friction abrades the brake shoe so much that it doesn't press against the brake drum any more. That's the smell you'd smell if it was applied, the brake shoe getting burned up by the brake drum spinning. And trust me, if the Parking Brake is applied you can smell it while going 60 MPH. But it would not harm Rev in any way.

The big question is, did the tow truck driver disconnect the drive shaft like he is suppose to?
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:57 PM   #9
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No the driver did not disconnect the drive shaft. He had me put it in Neutral. It was towed from the front, (of course) in Neutral, with driveshaft connected.
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Old 09-21-2019, 02:11 PM   #10
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I think you should call and ask him who his towing business has insurance with.
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Old 09-21-2019, 03:53 PM   #11
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Good Sam Roadside assistance took care of all that. Looks like I'll have to call them.


Thanks, Sounds like a good start.
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Old 09-21-2019, 04:48 PM   #12
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A good tow truck operator would have dropped the driveshaft just to prevent questions like this happening.
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Old 09-23-2019, 08:36 AM   #13
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A good tow truck operator would have dropped the driveshaft just to prevent questions like this happening.
This is correct. There is only one pump in most modern automatic transmissions which provides lubrication to the internal parts of the transmission. This pump is driven only by the engine running and the flywheel and torque converter spinning. The torque converter drives the pump.
If the Auto Park was even partially engaged, the dragging of the brake shoes in the drum on the rear of the transmission would cause a lot of heat. Combine that heat with the lack of lubrication in the transmission and it's no surprise you have a ruined transmission.
The tow truck operator has a responsibility in this as well as the driver of the RV. When that warning lamp came on the vehicle should have been pulled off the road and the APB repaired immediately.
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Old 03-08-2020, 01:55 PM   #14
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Exclamation 1996 Workhorse p-30 autopark break failure

My 1996 Safari Trek broke down and had to get it towed. Tow truck driver had hard time towing the RV but got it to repair shop where they put in a new fuel pump and rear brakes. The RV worked fine for a while but now it rolls when put in park. Checked black box & RGS switch was leaking. Replaced the RGS and the unit now engages the cable and it moves aprox 3-4 inches but the RV still rolls. The emergency break doesn't hold it either. What are my next steps to fix it?
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