Community Forums

Gary the Wombat · 01-07-2008, 12:53 PM

I am always astounded (to use a polite word) at how much places want to charge to do a routine service. Can I safely change the oil and filter on my 8.1L myself once in a while, or do they do something "magic" at the dealer to justify such a high cost?

I know there are also some grease points, but shouldn't need to be attended to as regularly as the oil change, or am wrong? The only thing else I've seen them do is check to make sure the lights work and the horn beeps--heck, even I can manage that!

Gary the Wombat · 01-07-2008, 12:53 PM

I am always astounded (to use a polite word) at how much places want to charge to do a routine service. Can I safely change the oil and filter on my 8.1L myself once in a while, or do they do something "magic" at the dealer to justify such a high cost?

I know there are also some grease points, but shouldn't need to be attended to as regularly as the oil change, or am wrong? The only thing else I've seen them do is check to make sure the lights work and the horn beeps--heck, even I can manage that!

jdsr · 01-07-2008, 01:05 PM

I changed my oil myself for the first time the other day. Up untill then walmart changed it and lubed it every time. Believe it or not they always asked for the lube sheet and lubed every fitting. Another thing you might not believe is they only charged 21.00. I am glad I changed it because I found a small leak in 2 of my slideout hoses. I dont think the tech at wally world would have spotted it so I guess its good to do it once and a while

Oemtech · 01-07-2008, 01:43 PM

Other than the box the sits on the frame, changing oil on your 8.1L engine is no different than a truck or car. If ID the lube points then its a slam dunk. The dealer is nicking you $100 an hour for a oil change that normally goes for $20.

But, if you add:
Wix/GM 1 qt filter - $15
7 qts of M1 - $35
Recycle fees (Oil/Filter) - $5
Lube - $10
.5 hr labor -$50
Your oil change just hit $100 - DIY version $50 in supplies and hour of your time.

paz · 01-07-2008, 01:54 PM

IMO, the only "magic" a commercial establishment can provide is a receipt indicating the date and mileage the oil was changed should you ever need it for warranty purposes.

That still never bothered me. I changed my own oil up until we became full-timers, even though we were still under warranty. I'd still do it, but most campgrounds don't allow it.

al koffman · 01-07-2008, 05:15 PM

I have found it easier to change oil in my W20 than my jeep liberty. the oil filter on the mh is right there in front of your face. I can change the oil and lube the chassis in about half an hour. I learned how to do lube-oil-filter during WW2 at my uncles gas station. Must admit that after a few surguries it is a little tougher, but as long as I can do it I will.

FrontRangeRVer · 01-08-2008, 04:25 AM

I have the oil change place change the oil in my 4 vehicles, but I do the motorhome as it's really easy and plenty of room to work underneath.

I use a piece of carpet to lay on.

Clay L · 01-08-2008, 06:39 AM

As the others have said it's easy to do the job yourself.
According to my owners manual since I am towing a car the oil should be changed every 3000 miles. Actually it says towing a trailer but I figure a car would also trigger the 3000 mile instead of the 7000 mile requirement.
The chassis should also be lubed at that time.

I found that a flexible hose on the grease gun was a necessity and bought one for my gun.

There are 13 grease fittings on my chassis. When I add the retrofit brake tube fitting there will be 14.

As I recall there are 6 on the drive train and 7 on the front end. The manual says that a couple of the ones on the front end should not be lubed with a an air grease gun - only with a manual one.
Want to take any bets on what 99% of the shops use on those 2 fittings?

One other note, in many (most?) states AutoZone and Checker auto parts stores will take used oil. There are probably many other places, but I am familiar with those two.

CoastieSCPO · 01-09-2008, 05:01 AM

When at home, I always do an oil change and lube on the motorhome. It's much easier than most cars. When we travel to Florida in the winter, there is a place in Sebring called Race Thru Kwik Lube that is a motorhome-friendly business. While it is a bit tight getting the rig into the bay, they are experienced at changing the oil and finding the lube fittings on my W-20. And the base price is only $39.95 plus tax. I always use this place for the oil change prior to driving to Daytona for speedweeks and the trip back to Tennessee following the 500.
Bob

Photog · 01-09-2008, 01:05 PM

Unless I am having other service done, I usually do my own. Like the comments made by others, there is plenty of room under the coach and it's a very easy job.

Thudman · 01-09-2008, 03:25 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">and it's a very easy job. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Then why are my driveline zerks always at 12 o'clock?

Thudman

M&EM · 01-09-2008, 04:36 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Thudman:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">and it's a very easy job. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Then why are my driveline zerks always at 12 o'clock?

Thudman </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Because you didn't stop at the right spot!

Matt B · 01-10-2008, 05:02 AM

I've got one on my P32 Chevy chassis that no matter how I park it is impossible to get the gun on. I replaced it with a 90 degree fitting and now all is well. Makes you wonder how many times it was lubed before I got it.

Gary the Wombat · 01-14-2008, 01:41 PM

So I bought some oil, filter, grease gun with a flexible hose, etc and changed my own oil. What a piece of cake, and probably saved close to $100 over what the local rip-offs charge. Plus I didn't have to drive 50 miles each way as well. It also gave the the chance to run the generator for an hour while I did it. (Actually it only took me about 40 minutes, but I ran the genny longer anyhoo.)

However, I just know I probably missed a couple of grease points. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find out where they all are? My MH has the Workhorse W16 chassis.