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Old 08-08-2022, 05:54 AM   #1
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Condenser/Oil cooler

Have a 1994 Southwind Storm (P30 chassis 454 TBI w/4L80E) that developed small leak in the oil cooler. The oil cooler is integrated into the AC condenser unit (dual). Rather than replace the whole unit given the AC still is working. I'm going to by-pass the integral oil cooler and run a stand alone oil cooler.

Anyone know the fitting size on the end of the lines that run from the engine?

Any cooler recommendations? Looking for something that is easy to install.

The unit that is installed in the RV is the same as the following...

Motorhome Dash AC and Heat systems
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Old 08-08-2022, 12:07 PM   #2
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The condenser-oil cooler dimensions are:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/3jtwk6g774...ooler.jpg?dl=0
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Old 08-08-2022, 02:58 PM   #3
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It's not going to be easy job.. anyway you look at it.. but it could be done at a fraction of the cost of new condenser/oil cooler.. I used derale.com.. and mounted big cooler with its own fan and inline thermostat.. I made a bracket out of some flat metal rods that have the holes already drilled in it.. flat steel.. I can't remember the name of the stuff.. but you buy it at hardware store.. comes in 4ft 6ft 8ft.. just measure and cut.. I then used self tapping sheet metal screws #12 3/4 or 1/2 and screw to existing square tubing.. and make up you own frame.. just in front of the drivers side tire.. next to battery.. plenty of room.. then I mounted the cooler to that.. worked out great . If you need me to look up part #.. drop me a note.. but here the big kicker. With the old hoses being 25yr plus old.. you better just go ahead and replace them.. make sure you remember that oil is hot and under 40 to 80 psi.. you must use best oil cooler hose you can find.. must be made for hot/oil.. not the standard stuff use for vacuum lines or heater hose..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 08-08-2022, 03:10 PM   #4
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Home depot calls it zinc steel punched flat bar.. I looked at angle iron.. but used flat bar instead.. you could use angle iron.. get 4 ea 1/4 inch about 2in hex head bolts.. washers and lock nut with lock washers.. use blue thread locker.. to mount cooler to frame.. just over kill.. but the way roads are.. oh.. just remember.. you must use tube and fin for cooler not plat type.. the plat type has too much restriction.. so don't use that.. stick with tube and fin..slide up under there.. you see there is exposed square tubing and measure.. then fit biggest you are comfortable with..
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Old 08-08-2022, 03:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
It's not going to be easy job.. anyway you look at it.. but it could be done at a fraction of the cost of new condenser/oil cooler.. I used derale.com.. and mounted big cooler with its own fan and inline thermostat.. I made a bracket out of some flat metal rods that have the holes already drilled in it.. flat steel.. I can't remember the name of the stuff.. but you buy it at hardware store.. comes in 4ft 6ft 8ft.. just measure and cut.. I then used self tapping sheet metal screws #12 3/4 or 1/2 and screw to existing square tubing.. and make up you own frame.. just in front of the drivers side tire.. next to battery.. plenty of room.. then I mounted the cooler to that.. worked out great . If you need me to look up part #.. drop me a note.. but here the big kicker. With the old hoses being 25yr plus old.. you better just go ahead and replace them.. make sure you remember that oil is hot and under 40 to 80 psi.. you must use best oil cooler hose you can find.. must be made for hot/oil.. not the standard stuff use for vacuum lines or heater hose..
Good luck and keep us posted

Have been given thought to location of new cooler but dismissed the tire wheel well area given the possibility of debris and/or tire blow out damaging the cooler.


What I figured I'd do was hopefully find a cooler approximately same size as trans cooler and mount it onto the backside of the trans cooler with a fan on front blowing thru both (no T stat) and wire it into the existing 16in fan which kicks on at approx. 221F.


Emailed Summit racing and they referred me to Holley and waiting for a response from them. Do you happen to have the part number for the (2) oil lines that go from the engine block to the front?


Do I need to drain the oil for this? Or is it just a top off after breaking the line connections afterwards? Much appreciated for the help.
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Old 08-08-2022, 03:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
Home depot calls it zinc steel punched flat bar.. I looked at angle iron.. but used flat bar instead.. you could use angle iron.. get 4 ea 1/4 inch about 2in hex head bolts.. washers and lock nut with lock washers.. use blue thread locker.. to mount cooler to frame.. just over kill.. but the way roads are.. oh.. just remember.. you must use tube and fin for cooler not plat type.. the plat type has too much restriction.. so don't use that.. stick with tube and fin..slide up under there.. you see there is exposed square tubing and measure.. then fit biggest you are comfortable with..

Interesting...Summits response to me a short while ago...


" I would consider checking with Earl's at the address below. They offer stack plate coolers based on the allowable space for installation. If not mounted in the airflow of the vehicle the size would have to be altered to allow for the fan. The 13/16-16 would be the issue where they may have an adapter for an AN fitting."
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Old 08-08-2022, 04:11 PM   #7
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I understand your concern and I have not had any problems.. if you stack cooler behind trans cooler you lose something like 50% efficiency.. if you put in front of trans cooler.. it loses 50%.. but it's your choice.. just realize that when you stack coolers.. they both need to be increased in size.. now I have been adding cooler to all kinds of vehicles from farm yo industrial.. and plat type cooler for the most part.. now I don't know everything.. for 50yrs.. and when you start a cold eng and get a pressure spike.. the otc. Lines will blow.. you can go all out.. and complicat the whole job with industrial braided steel lines with an. Fitting..
But I my experience plat type cooler for eng causes too much restriction.. do not do it..

Look at the oem. Cooler you have now.. mine is tube and fin.. most trans run 6 to 10 psi.. so plat type is fine for that low pressure applications.. but tube and fin is way to go for engines.. at 40 to 80psi.. but it's your ride.. do what you want.. I have worked on Chevy for 50 yrs.. and all type of farm equipment..

As to where you want to put it.. I just told you how I did it.. on mine they mounted the hydraulic system that goes to the hwh levelers right in the eng compartment and so just blocked off lower section of whole front.. and I was not about to stack coolers because of complications.. one just throws heat into the other in my humble opinion.. then you put all those coolers in front of condenser and that throws more heat into a/c.. condenser..

Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 08-09-2022, 12:06 PM   #8
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Had been recommended the following cooler by Summit and GMT-400


200psi rating



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70274
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Old 08-09-2022, 08:39 PM   #9
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I started a thread with pics here so please feel free to look.


https://www.gmt400.com/threads/conde...3#post-1258175
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Old 08-10-2022, 07:27 AM   #10
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On my 2000 if I remember correctly the fittings on the cooler end are a -8 flare fitting. The problem with replacing the entire line is the engine end. They are a married set of bolt on o-ring type. I don't know if this makes sense to you but it's the best I can explain. I had to replace my lines shortly after I got it and they are seeping again. I got mine from a Workhorse repair shop in Birmingham, AL. and the hose set is hard to find.
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Old 08-10-2022, 07:41 AM   #11
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One could take the hose assembly to a hydraulic repair shop. They will fit new hoses onto the old fittings or just use the old engine side fittings and new fittings that fit up with the new cooler.
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Old 08-10-2022, 02:15 PM   #12
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Oil lines

Lines from engine to cooler. This is an OE set up with no oil lines running to or from radiator side tank. Only the the trans has lines going to passenger side of radiator then to external cooler.



Top pic is where the lines go around cross member to the front.



The middle pic is turned left 90 degrees. it is where they connect to the oil cooler at lower drivers side behind the external trans cooler.


The 3rd pic is where they leave the engine block.


Bottom pic is also turned 90 degrees. Straight down look at cooler fittings behind trans cooler.
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Old 08-10-2022, 02:27 PM   #13
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Leak is from here...Pic is turned 90 degrees left. leaking from where the corners meet. Passenger side bottom.


2nd pic is turned 90 degrees. It is from passenger side wheel well looking at the leak pictured above.


Was given thought to tackling this job myself. But time is a factor for me (no time). And to compound things...12 shops contacted and either...


No response


or


No


If I do it. The whole condenser/oil cooler unit is coming out. Cap off the AC systems and install a stand alone oil cooler. The AC even though it works it is ineffective at cooling anything other than your knee. It was an oxymoron to have one to begin with. If anything it will open up the front side of the radiator allowing for better airflow to enter.


Without the large OE condenser/oil cooler that will eliminate the heat that is sitting in front of the radiator that ultimately gets pushed into it via the aux fan.


Best guess as to why this design by the OE...it was to minimize having to many items and hoses/lines running to the front or elsewhere. It was also installed without the use of any material to minimize shock from vibration. Poorly thought out. The lower side of the unit sits via a J channel (metal). It only bolts at the top via (3) small bolts. metal - metal contact top & bottom.
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Old 08-12-2022, 12:03 AM   #14
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Anyone know what size the fittings are in the 1st and 2nd pic?


I was able to loosen them (2nd pic) with a shot of PB and used a 7/8 wrench on the hard line side and 3/4 on the condenser side. The fittings in the 1st pic are the same size. The lower right fittings on the schematic for the condenser state 3/4-16 UFN male.

I need to know the size of the hard line end (thread size). This way I can choose a stand alone cooler easier.
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