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Old 08-08-2013, 03:07 PM   #1
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Dash AC blowing warm air

I picked up my RV from storage last evening and the dash AC is blowing warm air. I tried a few thing to diagnose but didn't get very far before it got dark outside. When I turn on the A/C I don't hear the compressor clutch engaging (will have to take the doghouse off to get a better look).

Also I thought the two electric fans are suppose to turn on in the engine compartment when the A/C is on. This does not happen. Ambient tempurature was about 85 degrees out and the engine was warm when I was diagnosing so I would think that the fans should have been on with the A/C on.

I was able to find a 10 amp fuse in the engine compartment marked A/C but it looks good. Are there any other fuses to look for?


Thanks.

-Scott
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:42 PM   #2
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Low freon will keep the compressor from kicking in.
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:57 PM   #3
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Wouldn't it at least start and then shut off? Or would it never start?

How do I check the pressure? Do I need to purchase a manifold gauge or is there something less expensive?

Thanks.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:06 PM   #4
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Walmart, auto section, about $20 in luding gauge and coolant.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:24 PM   #5
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There is a switch that is shut off when pressure is low, another when pressure is too high. The compressor and the fans on the condenser will not get power if pressure is low. Rather than just put more freon in an obviously leaking system, you should take it to an A/C shop that can find the leak with a 'sniffer' or UV light and have that fixed before adding freon.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:53 PM   #6
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I agree with BFlinn181. Although when mine did that, I bought this kit from walmart and recharged it myself and it seems to be holding up. I may still have a very slow leak that will bleed off in time though.
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:58 AM   #7
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If you look around they sell a recharge kit with stop leak in it if you have a very small leak
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:57 AM   #8
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OK. I purchased one of the freons with a gauge and added some freon. The fans now cycle on and off about every 5 seconds. When the fan is on the gauge drops to the green area (low on Freon) but when the fan is off the gauge goes to the blue area (filled). Is this because it's really still too low when the compressor is on and one of the pressure switches is shutting off the system?

I am heading out today for a weekend camping trip and will use my generator and roof A/C if I can't get the dash air working.

Thanks.

-Scott
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:08 PM   #9
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Well after reading some other auto forums I decided I was still too low on Freon so I added more. Each time it cycled on I pushed the button on the can and noticed each time I did this the time it stayed on was longer. It eventually stayed on constantly and I got the pressure to the minimum "full" point on the gauge (25 psi). I could not get the last few ounces of coolant out of the can but the A/C blow cold now .

I am hoping the leak sealant that was in the Freon closes any leaks that are present.

It's actually blowing colder than I remember when I first purchased the RV 4 years ago. It must have been low then.

Now off to camping .

Thanks everyone.

-Scott
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Old 08-09-2013, 06:44 PM   #10
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If it starts getting warm again, you may want to read this link, after placing vice grip pliers on one of your heater hoses, it seems the Evans control valve to prevent the engine hot water from entering the AC/Heater unit has been installed in correctly on many motor home chassis's.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:59 AM   #11
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on my 2003 FW Bounder - W22 Chassis, my dash A/C was not working when I purchased it. Brought it in to a shop, they couldn't detect a leak.

Pressure test seemed ok after a period of time, sniffer didn't detect anything - so they added dye to the system. A day later, they couldn't find anything with the light - so they sent it back. Air was cold for the drive back home. Next weekend, took it out on a hot day to gas her up and the air was warm.

Brought it back to same shop - 1.5 weeks later, they were able to find the leak. At the compressor seal - apparently, a very small leak (tiny bit of dye on under back side of compressor casing) and now air is blowing nice and cold!

Good luck and I hope the can(s) of freon was your ultimate solution!
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:45 PM   #12
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Well after three weeks the pressure has held steady so I just topped it up to the recommended pressure. It looks like it was just a very small leak and I am hoping the leak sealant in the Freon took care of the leak. Happy to have cold air again .
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:23 AM   #13
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I keep seeing folks recommending re-charge kits... I will recommend against them and tell you why.

If it needs a re-charge, it is leaking and it's going to need another, and another, and another.

Better to get it diagnosed, fixed, and re-charged.

10 amps is a tad small for an air conditioenr fuse. most of them are 20 amps or more.. Thus I suspect you have a 2nd fuse somewhere.

There may be a relay that activates to engage the clutch as well

plus the wires (Nibbled by a mouse or other rodent) and connectors (pulled loose) and the clutch itself (They do burn out, not often but they do burn out).

If the compressor actually turns (Visual inspect please, in case it's just bad hearing) there is a water valve that lets hot water flow through the heater. This too can fail open.
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:45 PM   #14
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This is my first adventure in having to diagnose an a/c unit having never had to deal with it in my 30 + years of driving a motor vehicle. I agree that re-charge kits are not necessarily the correct solution but may end up being just a patch. If it ends up leaking out again I will inject some dye so I can see where the leak is, get a manifold gauge and vacuum pump and fix the leak. I should have started out injecting some dye but like I said this was my first a/c problem...ever.

I added 18 ounces to get it to the proper pressure and a completely empty system takes 32 ounces so it was about half empty (or full) depending on how you want to look at it.

A 10 amp fuse is definitely what is called for on the a/c compressor relay. See page 73 of the 2009 Workhorse Chassis Guide for a W20 chassis.

Of course if it takes another 9 years or so for it to leak out again I will be more than willing to give the $25 a/c recharge kit another go.

Thanks.

-Scott
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