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Old 05-30-2004, 06:18 AM   #1
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I built my own Rear Trac Bar (aka Henderson Trac Bar - $350) partly because of cost ($75) as I already have the tools and shop to do it. It makes a great additon to the 4 new Bilstein shocks and stablizes the rear of the coach. No more "tail wagging the dog". If you are intrested in looking at the pictures you can go here W22 RV Trac Bar

Here is the tech stuff:
DIY Rear Trac Bar Parts List

Heim joints, bar & jam nuts
Source - Motorsports of Kansas City
913-334-0477
Contact - Brad Harrison
Parts - RH Poly Heim - 02088RH - $13.99
LH Poly Heim - 02088LH - $13.99
RH Jam Nut - 18260 - .99
LH Jam Nut - 18261 - .99
Bar - 421703C - $13.99

Notes:
1) The bar can be ordered by the inch.
2) The one listed is 17" plus about 3" for the 2 Heim joints makes the "eye" to "eye" about 20".
3) You get 2 sets of "eye" bushings. I used the smaller 1/2" ones. To install them you need a vise, and a socket just big enough for the bushing to fit in. Put the socket behind the old bushing, the new bushing over the old bushing and use the vise to push the new on in and the old one out.

Nuts/Bolts/Washers
If you use 3/8" steel you will need to replace all the nuts and bolts you take off as they will be to short. Use Grade 8 or better nuts and bolts.
Rear End bolts - (3) 1/2"x13 - 2 1/2" long
Frame Bolts - (4) 1/2"x13 - 2 /12" long
Trac Bar Ends - (2) 1/2 x13 - 1 3/4" long
Washers - 15 or so 1/2". You may need to shim the Trac Bar ends depending on how accurate you are at lining up everything.
Nuts - (6) 1/2x13 Locking nuts. They can either be a crush nut or a plastic insert type.

Misc
Red Locktight thread locker.
Silicone sealer for the 3 rear end bolts (just a dab).

Steel
You will need either a piece of 1/4 or 3/8' mild steel to make the brackets.

Tools
Hand tools to remove and install various nuts and bolts.
Access to a cutting torch or a plasma cutter to cut the steel plate.
Access to a drill press and 1/2" bit or larger. I used a smaller bit to drill a pilot hole.
Access to a arc welder

The patterns are setup for a passengers side rear end mount and a drivers side frame mount. I chose this setup becuse I didn't have to move anything. I may make the patterns available if ther is enough intrest.

Thanks to logthumper (rv.net) for the idea and source for the parts.
Thanks DriVer for the writeup and pictures that I used as a guide.
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Old 05-30-2004, 06:18 AM   #2
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I built my own Rear Trac Bar (aka Henderson Trac Bar - $350) partly because of cost ($75) as I already have the tools and shop to do it. It makes a great additon to the 4 new Bilstein shocks and stablizes the rear of the coach. No more "tail wagging the dog". If you are intrested in looking at the pictures you can go here W22 RV Trac Bar

Here is the tech stuff:
DIY Rear Trac Bar Parts List

Heim joints, bar & jam nuts
Source - Motorsports of Kansas City
913-334-0477
Contact - Brad Harrison
Parts - RH Poly Heim - 02088RH - $13.99
LH Poly Heim - 02088LH - $13.99
RH Jam Nut - 18260 - .99
LH Jam Nut - 18261 - .99
Bar - 421703C - $13.99

Notes:
1) The bar can be ordered by the inch.
2) The one listed is 17" plus about 3" for the 2 Heim joints makes the "eye" to "eye" about 20".
3) You get 2 sets of "eye" bushings. I used the smaller 1/2" ones. To install them you need a vise, and a socket just big enough for the bushing to fit in. Put the socket behind the old bushing, the new bushing over the old bushing and use the vise to push the new on in and the old one out.

Nuts/Bolts/Washers
If you use 3/8" steel you will need to replace all the nuts and bolts you take off as they will be to short. Use Grade 8 or better nuts and bolts.
Rear End bolts - (3) 1/2"x13 - 2 1/2" long
Frame Bolts - (4) 1/2"x13 - 2 /12" long
Trac Bar Ends - (2) 1/2 x13 - 1 3/4" long
Washers - 15 or so 1/2". You may need to shim the Trac Bar ends depending on how accurate you are at lining up everything.
Nuts - (6) 1/2x13 Locking nuts. They can either be a crush nut or a plastic insert type.

Misc
Red Locktight thread locker.
Silicone sealer for the 3 rear end bolts (just a dab).

Steel
You will need either a piece of 1/4 or 3/8' mild steel to make the brackets.

Tools
Hand tools to remove and install various nuts and bolts.
Access to a cutting torch or a plasma cutter to cut the steel plate.
Access to a drill press and 1/2" bit or larger. I used a smaller bit to drill a pilot hole.
Access to a arc welder

The patterns are setup for a passengers side rear end mount and a drivers side frame mount. I chose this setup becuse I didn't have to move anything. I may make the patterns available if ther is enough intrest.

Thanks to logthumper (rv.net) for the idea and source for the parts.
Thanks DriVer for the writeup and pictures that I used as a guide.
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Old 05-30-2004, 04:28 PM   #3
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Good Job!
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Old 05-30-2004, 06:31 PM   #4
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Its been a long time since I free handed a cutting torch. So, this setup is not real pretty but function. It suffers from OD/OB syndrome.... Over Designed and Over Built But, I have a 2nd set of patterns that should make it easier.

My Next project is a front Trac Bar and a steering stabilizer. I also, have a A/C cold air pack in the works. Lastly I am looking at a Engine intake cold air pack.
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Old 05-31-2004, 02:28 AM   #5
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Just curious from your photos why you selected the right side of the frame as the attachment point?

I think that the longer link you provided may be better suited to the task than the short links we've seen in DIY projects. I'm thinking that a longer link provides more vertical travel flexibility for the axle housing than a short one for purposes of raising the MH using its HWH jacks for instance.

I see from the photos that you are not using lock washers on the vertical plate attachment bolts. Grant it that the OEM (Dana) did not use lock washers for the pinion carrier to banjo attachment however when you added the vertical plate did lock washers come into consideration or did you reason that lock washers would not provide any added benefit to the installation.

Henderson provided lock washers for each nut and bolt assembly in the installation, you can reference the pictures I included here in the forum.

I'm looking forward to the completion of your follow on projects.
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Old 05-31-2004, 05:08 AM   #6
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DriVer

I picked the right side (passenger) to left side (drivers) frame rail because I did not have move any wiring or cables had I used the left side (drivers).

From experience (working on stock cars) and reading you will find that the pan hard bar (aka Trac Bar) works best if mounted slightly off the center of the rear end. Now in a stock car the mounting point and angle make a difference. You have worry about things like the Roll Center. But for the RV you just trying to tie the rear end and frame together.

As for lock washers... Didn't use them as I used some 262 Red Locktight, a dab of silicone sealant, flat washer and torqued to spec. The bolts I used are grade 8 and are 2 1/2" long. The original bolts were 2". So, I added 3/8" for the bracket and 1/8" for the washer; this gave me the same amount of thread as the ordinals going back into the rear end.

I used 262 Red Locktight on all the nuts and bolts. The nuts are nylon locking type nuts. The other alternative is to use a crush nut (top part of the nut is deformed on 3 or 4 sides to provide a postive lock).
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Old 05-31-2004, 06:37 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by oemtech:
As for lock washers... Didn't use them as I used some 262 Red Locktight, a dab of silicone sealant, flat washer and torqued to spec. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Roger that! I went out and bought red locktight as well. Like they say, "Don't leave home without it!"
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Old 05-31-2004, 08:47 PM   #8
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For those that want to try a DIY Trac Bar I have posted the patterns on W22 RV Trac Bar You should be able to down load them, resize them to 850x1105 and be in business.

Should you want a hard copy drop me an email.
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:18 AM   #9
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Great Job Dale, and please don't think I'm being critical because it looks perfect to me, but by offering the plans to others, isn't that a copy right violation? Driver, you're my hero when it comes to this stuff maybe you know? Only reason I ask is because is the exactness of the design to Henderson's. Just curious how you guys feel about this.

Driver! I just installed Henderson's this past weekend based on as Dale said, your great post about your experience with the install. Took my neighbor and I about 45 minutes to do (we used an air compressor and impact wrench, which made short work of the removal and installation of the bolts, and his impact wrench had a torque adjustment on it (mine was a cheapie) so we did the torque at the same time as installation.

Did the test drive in some great Kansas crosswinds and it performed exactly as advertised. Thanks for the great post. Since we will be fulltime within 45 days, the improved handling will be greatly appreciated.

Again, Dale, no criticism, I think your setup looks great!!! Just wonder about being able to give the plans away... Seee you all down the road.
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Old 06-02-2004, 06:41 AM   #10
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The Panhard bar design (aka Trac Bar) has been around for decades in stock car racing. I am sure that Robert Henderson didn't come up with this idea out of the blue. Adding it to a RV my be his. Also, I have not seen any copyright or trademark logos on anything coming out of Hendersons. I also don't believe that there are any patent numbers on the Henderson kit either. But, I there are any Copyrights, Trademarks, of Patents I would respect them and pull my patterns.

There are only so many ways to mount a piece of steel bar between the rear end and the frame. I choose the path of least resistance (no drilling and no welding to the rear end or frame)

My setup differers from Henderson's. It mounted on the opposite side, probably only fits a selected number of chassis, has a longer bar and has 2 Poly Heim joints.

The reason I don't build them is primarily the LIABILITY aspect and secondly I am retired and don't want to run a business when I can be in the RV! I guess I don't need the money

OBTW - Here is a good article on Panhard bars Rpmnet - Panhard Bar
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:23 PM   #11
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Like I said Dale, not being critical Just curious as to the possibilities. I wish I had the expertise to make my own but had to resort to the old fashioned way, and buy it. It was fun and easy to install however, and I suppose even for me there was a certain satisfaction in being happy with the results of something you did yourself. Great job....see ya down the road.
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:20 AM   #12
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
I built my own Rear Trac Bar (aka Henderson Trac Bar - $350) partly because of cost ($75) as I already have the tools and shop to do it. It makes a great additon to the 4 new Bilstein shocks and stablizes the rear of the coach. No more "tail wagging the dog". If you are intrested in looking at the pictures you can go here W22 RV Trac Bar

Here is the tech stuff:
DIY Rear Trac Bar Parts List

Heim joints, bar & jam nuts
Source - Motorsports of Kansas City
913-334-0477
Contact - Brad Harrison
Parts - RH Poly Heim - 02088RH - $13.99
LH Poly Heim - 02088LH - $13.99
RH Jam Nut - 18260 - .99
LH Jam Nut - 18261 - .99
Bar - 421703C - $13.99

Notes:
1) The bar can be ordered by the inch.
2) The one listed is 17" plus about 3" for the 2 Heim joints makes the "eye" to "eye" about 20".
3) You get 2 sets of "eye" bushings. I used the smaller 1/2" ones. To install them you need a vise, and a socket just big enough for the bushing to fit in. Put the socket behind the old bushing, the new bushing over the old bushing and use the vise to push the new on in and the old one out.

Nuts/Bolts/Washers
If you use 3/8" steel you will need to replace all the nuts and bolts you take off as they will be to short. Use Grade 8 or better nuts and bolts.
Rear End bolts - (3) 1/2"x13 - 2 1/2" long
Frame Bolts - (4) 1/2"x13 - 2 /12" long
Trac Bar Ends - (2) 1/2 x13 - 1 3/4" long
Washers - 15 or so 1/2". You may need to shim the Trac Bar ends depending on how accurate you are at lining up everything.
Nuts - (6) 1/2x13 Locking nuts. They can either be a crush nut or a plastic insert type.

Misc
Red Locktight thread locker.
Silicone sealer for the 3 rear end bolts (just a dab).

Steel
You will need either a piece of 1/4 or 3/8' mild steel to make the brackets.

Tools
Hand tools to remove and install various nuts and bolts.
Access to a cutting torch or a plasma cutter to cut the steel plate.
Access to a drill press and 1/2" bit or larger. I used a smaller bit to drill a pilot hole.
Access to a arc welder

The patterns are setup for a passengers side rear end mount and a drivers side frame mount. I chose this setup becuse I didn't have to move anything. I may make the patterns available if ther is enough intrest.

Thanks to logthumper (rv.net) for the idea and source for the parts.
Thanks DriVer for the writeup and pictures that I used as a guide. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 08-16-2005, 09:37 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
For those that want to try a DIY Trac Bar I have posted the patterns on W22 RV Trac Bar You should be able to down load them, resize them to 850x1105 and be in business.

Should you want a hard copy drop me an email. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Dale Can you Send Me a Hard Copy Thanks williamjwelch@eaton.com THANKS
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Old 08-17-2005, 08:00 PM   #14
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Sorry I didn't see this sooner or I would have replied. I guess I need to update my profile so any msgs go to the right email address.
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