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Old 09-26-2022, 11:08 AM   #1
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Engine Compartment gets too hot how to fix this

I have a 2002 Fleetwood P32 Chassis; 8.1Ltr. My vehicle engine has not overheated, (internally). However, my engine compartment appears boxed in and gets very hot; I have 20,000 miles on vehicle. Alternator failure and fan clutch failure, Spark Plug wires also. the Compartment appears confined and without what I would consider adequate cooling, venting.

Any ideas?

How did your vent your's?

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Old 09-26-2022, 11:39 AM   #2
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Here’s is what I did.


Installed two of these collectors at the grill then routed hose up and over the radiator. The incoming air dumps into the engine compartment with the hose directed towards the exhaust manifold on each side.
Also installed two, 8” fans, mounted above motor, flowing air down the sides of the motor and manifolds. Fans are controlled by an external thermostat mounted on top of the motor.
I don’t have any hard numbers, but just the feel on my right leg, I can tell these upgrades have reduced temperatures in the engine compartment.

Before I installed the fans, I had two bilge fans in-line between the collectors and the motor that worked well but were just too loud for me. The current fans are motorcycle radiator fans.

My engine compartment is large and incorporates both wheel wells. So there is a huge, not so aerodynamic area to catch and hold heat. My next project will be to enclose the engine compartment so that the fans can push the air over the motor and dump out of the bottom around the transmission.

I am not an engineer, so any of my “upgrades” are trial and error.

Let us know what you do or try. Lots of ideas and theories out there.
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Old 09-26-2022, 12:00 PM   #3
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Thank you.... That sounds great, I like your idea and it will give me some new concepts.

My wheels are open. But, Do not understand why they have a solid shield between the wheels and the wheel openings which completely blocks the air flow to the engine. Also they have the ECM on top of the radiator, but air flow to it is purposely blocked to it also. I removed that blockage to ECM already, they do not do well in extreme high heat. I do not like the engine getting that hot.

I like the 8.1ltr and service it often. I flushed the cooling system and transmission serviced, differential serviced, new brakes, packed wheel bearings. I purchased this Motor home 3 years ago with only 18000 miles on it from an older private party. I am mechanical, (worked for auto dealerships in service and owned a collision repair business for 15 years before retiring ). I can be anal and very nit-picky.... Much of what I have run across working on this unit drives me crazy, such poor workmanship and laziness, shortcuts, just drive me nuts......

Thank you again....
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Old 09-26-2022, 12:11 PM   #4
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Agree with above.. just go online and look up brake cooling kits.. you can buy all the pieces alacart or a kit.. they make all kinds of fittings and grills.. pick out what you like and make up your own kit and route it to suit you needs..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 09-26-2022, 03:16 PM   #5
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Cool.......Will do......
Thank you
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Old 09-26-2022, 06:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrflie View Post
Here’s is what I did.


Installed two of these collectors at the grill then routed hose up and over the radiator. The incoming air dumps into the engine compartment with the hose directed towards the exhaust manifold on each side.
Also installed two, 8” fans, mounted above motor, flowing air down the sides of the motor and manifolds. Fans are controlled by an external thermostat mounted on top of the motor.
I don’t have any hard numbers, but just the feel on my right leg, I can tell these upgrades have reduced temperatures in the engine compartment.

Before I installed the fans, I had two bilge fans in-line between the collectors and the motor that worked well but were just too loud for me. The current fans are motorcycle radiator fans.

My engine compartment is large and incorporates both wheel wells. So there is a huge, not so aerodynamic area to catch and hold heat. My next project will be to enclose the engine compartment so that the fans can push the air over the motor and dump out of the bottom around the transmission.

I am not an engineer, so any of my “upgrades” are trial and error.

Let us know what you do or try. Lots of ideas and theories out there.
Looks like a great idea. How did you mount the ducts to the motorhome?
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:07 PM   #7
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Post up a pic of the front side of the AC condenser area.


20 years old and I'll bet the front side of the radiator tube fins need cleaning. I recently replaced the AC condenser w/integral oil cooler on mine and the front of the radiator looked like this...




https://www.gmt400.com/threads/conde...0/post-1260762


Use a 'Radiator genie' and clean from backside of radiator via the bottom side of the cooling shroud (lift off tabs slide it in).
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Old 09-26-2022, 10:39 PM   #8
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They make 4in and 3in round ones and you just use 3 or 4 hole saw.. the rectangular one in picture.. one could use jig saw.. or Dremal types and mount that behind grill.. just a way.. you come up with your own.. then route hi temp hose over wheels if you have room.. or over frame.. or over top of radiator.. you need to be creative..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 09-27-2022, 10:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funmoneypit View Post
Looks like a great idea. How did you mount the ducts to the motorhome?
My grill has metal mesh screen with 3/16th holes.
I put S/S screws through the screen holes and attached the air collectors to the back side of the screen.

It’s not the optimum mounting location because the 3” vent hoses travel up in front of the condenser and over the top of the radiator but it does get air into and over the engine compartment while under way. I really wanted to place the vent hose around the sides of the radiator and force air into the sides of the motor but have yet to find a clean path for that to happen.

When I started this project, my main focus was to force air over the back half of both exhaust manifolds, a known trouble spot for these motors. I don’t know if it has helped the manifolds or not but it has helped with overall engine compartment temperatures and less heat inside the M/H.
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Old 09-27-2022, 10:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trek8288 View Post
Much of what I have run across working on this unit drives me crazy, such poor workmanship and laziness, shortcuts, just drive me nuts..
Two things come to mind regarding your chassis. In addition to the air flow problem.

Ignition Switch
It is located on the backside of the steering column near the bottom.
Workhorse was known to put too many accessories on that switch which overloads it and causes it to melt and seperate which in turn loses connection and power to the chassis.
Workhorse did have a relay kit to deal with the issue. I don’t know if it’s still available or not.

Ignition Switch Actuator Rod
OEM part is cast pot metal that is prone to breakage if binding. OEM parts are few and far between or not available at all. It is located inside the steering column. Not hard to fix but time consuming. If it breaks, your key will turn and nothing will happen. At the very least, make sure yours has new, improved lubrication on it. Mine had the factory lube that had stiffened up over the years causing it to bind and fail. Luckily it failed at the storage yard.
The link below is the only business that I could find that had replacement parts. And they were super knowledgeable and they now have a steel retrofit part available.
https://www.steeringcolumnservices.c...tuator-rod.php

Sorry to add more to your plate. But if it prevents a breakdown then all is good.
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Old 09-27-2022, 12:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrflie View Post
My grill has metal mesh screen with 3/16th holes.
I put S/S screws through the screen holes and attached the air collectors to the back side of the screen.

It’s not the optimum mounting location because the 3” vent hoses travel up in front of the condenser and over the top of the radiator but it does get air into and over the engine compartment while under way. I really wanted to place the vent hose around the sides of the radiator and force air into the sides of the motor but have yet to find a clean path for that to happen.

When I started this project, my main focus was to force air over the back half of both exhaust manifolds, a known trouble spot for these motors. I don’t know if it has helped the manifolds or not but it has helped with overall engine compartment temperatures and less heat inside the M/H.
Thank you for the reply. I don't have mesh. I am sure I can figure something out.
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Old 09-27-2022, 12:57 PM   #12
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NOTE!!!!
With the GM Chassis..
PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the wiring loom tucked inside the Left Frame Rail at the Left exhaust manifold !! You might be ahead to just hit up a speed shop and get a roll of exhaust manifold wrap (Not the cheep stuff) and wrap the wiring loom in that location [could do the right side too if You want] Reason is, that they Didn't anchor the loom very well, and after a while their tie downs give up and then the wiring loom gets too close to the manifold..Melted wiring at that location really can Mess Up Your vacation plans..
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Old 09-27-2022, 01:19 PM   #13
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I think this would be a very worth while project.
I'd like to follow. Thank you.
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Old 10-10-2022, 01:34 AM   #14
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Here's pictures of the vent kit installed by WH Service Center under warranty in 2007. This is the passenger side ..... the driver's side install is a mirror image. The back two plugs on either side were the ones that got so hot the spark plug wires would burn up right at the connection to the top of the plugs. About the same time this kit was installed, I upgraded spark plug wires and never had a burnt wire again.
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