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Bobby F · 07-15-2020, 11:21 PM

You'll know once the belt is off, but it's fun to predict/guess, so . . .

Sounds like alternator bearing, idler pulley bearing, or A/C clutch.

(Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope? You could listen to each without having to pull the belt. $15 at your local auto parts store.)

clifford j · 07-16-2020, 04:08 AM

Damon, did you over fill the A/C with coolant and now have too much head pressure?

CLIFFORD

vettenuts · 07-16-2020, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Damon08

I just used my scanner and the code is P0131- O2 Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor)
the manual is calling it the (Heated Oxygen Sensor2)
at least from the look of it, it is a separate issue from the sound.
i will be pulling the belt off tomorrow to see what i can find and keep you updated.

I would start with an inspection of the air filter, and clean the MAF before throwing parts at this. Hoping you weren’t towing that heavy load with a lean mixture.

CamJam1 · 07-17-2020, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clifford j

Damon, did you over fill the A/C with coolant and now have too much head pressure?

CLIFFORD

I wondered about compressor head pressure too, especially if it was hot with little air flow over the condenser while climbing a grade.

Using a piece of old garden hose as a stethoscope should help isolate where the noise is coming from.

F4Gary · 07-17-2020, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clifford j

Damon, did you over fill the A/C with coolant and now have too much head pressure?

CLIFFORD

I'm wondering if he used one of those DIY cans from the auto parts store.

LETMGROW · 07-17-2020, 06:26 PM

Earth to OP.
Any news?
Lynn

Arch Hoagland · 07-17-2020, 09:31 PM

P0131....You need to clean you MAF!!!!

Wrenchch3 · 07-19-2020, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Damon08

Hello Everyone
I have a 2008 Damon Outlaw 3611 that has a severe metal on metal engine noise that I'm hoping is somewhat common to find?

Basically I was towing about 10K up a steep grade and all of a sudden the check engine light comes on and the engine started to squeal.

I was never higher than 3000 RPM
the Allison transmission shifted normally and was not overheated
the engine was not overheated.
below is a link to dropbox with a 30 second video of the engine idling underneath.
As I stated above, i am hoping that this issue has been crossed and an easy fix was found, as i am a full timer i really do not like the idea of my home in a shop for a week.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yyoiemwxyf...26823.mp4?dl=0

Torque converter flex plate cracked

Damon08 · 07-21-2020, 08:36 AM

Alright, so it turns out that the a/c compressor is bad, and the P0131 has been cleared after cleaning the MAF sensor. now im trying to find a mobile a/c mechanic to swap out the compressor.

deputydog · 07-21-2020, 08:54 AM

I hate to say it but "do it yourself" air conditioner cans from your local auto part stores have destroyed many good units. Without a gauge on both the high and low sides you don't have a clue as to what you are subjecting your unit to.

Lots of folks think if it doesn't blow cold air the answer is MORE freon when in fact many times it has TOO MUCH freon driving the high side pressure off the charts.

Another problem is they don't tell you to purge the hose(s) so every time you add some freon you add a shot of moisture that eventually will block up the expansion valve and stop the cooling at best and blow up stuff at worst. If it needs much freon it probably needs to be vacuumed down at the least and possibly have the dryer replaced.

If it's been leaking for a while you also lost part of the oil charge. Some kits have some oil charge in them also which can lead to TOO MUCH oil in the system. The problems go on and on. Best to vacuum it completely out to purge moisture and verify no leaks and then add proper charge by weight. Doing otherwise may make things lots worse.

vettenuts · 07-21-2020, 04:53 PM

The compressor is easy to access so labor shouldn’t be horrendous.

LETMGROW · 07-22-2020, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vettenuts

The compressor is easy to access so labor shouldn’t be horrendous.

vettenuts is correct. The compressor is easily accessible. However this is not a do it yourself job unless you are familiar with A C systems which can hold refrigerant at high pressures. Escaping Freon can blind you or make you sick if it isn't handled correctly. This is where the equipment to discharge, evacuate, recharge, add compressor oil etc. come in. The equipment also includes a good pair of gloves and good quality safety glasses along with a trained professional to perform the job.
Some may disagree with all the precautions but after 58+ years in the automobile/truck repair field I have seen a couple bad examples.
Lynn

Kluffinator · 08-20-2020, 07:42 PM

Timely post. I also had a bad noise like that. Turned out to be the compressor clutch. No noise with a/c on but screeching with a/c off Decided it was about as cheap to replace the whole compressor that to deal with trying to replace just the clutch. Good decision. I procured the compressor, belt and idler pulley and my mechanic just charged me 300 to swap everything out. He even replaced a schraeder valve he thought was seeping.
All is quiet.

eddieelk · 08-20-2020, 08:06 PM

Three years ago, my 2005 Equinox a/c compressor clutch went out. Got quotes of $1350.00. Bought gauges and vacuum pump for $100.00. Compressor was $60.00. Watched Youtube videos several times and did the job. Haven't added freon since. 8 months ago, same thing on my 2003 CRV. Parts for $163.00 included condenser, compressor, dryer. Did the job over two days because you have to remove the front of the car. I had replaced the CRV starter just before the a/c problem, so I knew how get the the front removed. Being 83, I don't rush. Eddie Elk.