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Old 10-30-2008, 06:22 AM   #1
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Earlier this month we returned from a five plus week, 4504 mile trip in our 2004 W20, 2005 Winnebago 33V MH and I want to report that the MH and all systems worked perfectly. Our trip was from Belleville, IL to Reno, NV through MO, KS, CO, UT and NV and return NV, UT, CO, NM, TX, OK, MO. The return avoided Interstate Highways until eastern NM.

We used 593.615 gal of gasoline for a trip average of 7.588 MPG. We were towing a 2004 Honda CR-V. At 19,800 lbs were about 900 lbs below our maximum gross weight of 20,700 lbs and our combined weight was about 2600 lbs below Allowable combined gross. I added 1 qt of Mobil 1 5-30 oil during the trip and ended not quite a pint low. Tire pressure all the way around = 88 lbs.

We drove over a number of passes over 10,000 ft in elevation and many, many others in the 7-8000 ft range. The aux fans operated as designed (wow what a noise when laboring at 10000 ft and one can feel their draw on power as well). We crested most tough climbs at 35-45 mph; however I lost rpm on a couple due to traffic or animals and had to drop all the way to 1st to get over at 20-25 mph. I did pull the 50A ABS fuse prior to the trip to help allay fears of brake lock-up descending western mountains.
We used the basement air/heat quite a number of times (Leadville, CO was 25 degrees next day in Utah was 95 degrees) both in camp and on the road. No problem.

We saw many of the natural wonders of our great west from the Rockies to Salt Lake; the expanses of Utah and Nevada, and in particular the beauty of Arches and Canyonland National Parks, the fantastic Indian ruins at Hovenweep NM and Mesa Verde NP, as well as Taos and Santa Fe, NM. We are indeed blessed to live in and be able to travel in the great country of ours!!

I apologize for the long post just wanted to submit a positive post about our MH and our experiences.
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Old 10-30-2008, 06:22 AM   #2
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Earlier this month we returned from a five plus week, 4504 mile trip in our 2004 W20, 2005 Winnebago 33V MH and I want to report that the MH and all systems worked perfectly. Our trip was from Belleville, IL to Reno, NV through MO, KS, CO, UT and NV and return NV, UT, CO, NM, TX, OK, MO. The return avoided Interstate Highways until eastern NM.

We used 593.615 gal of gasoline for a trip average of 7.588 MPG. We were towing a 2004 Honda CR-V. At 19,800 lbs were about 900 lbs below our maximum gross weight of 20,700 lbs and our combined weight was about 2600 lbs below Allowable combined gross. I added 1 qt of Mobil 1 5-30 oil during the trip and ended not quite a pint low. Tire pressure all the way around = 88 lbs.

We drove over a number of passes over 10,000 ft in elevation and many, many others in the 7-8000 ft range. The aux fans operated as designed (wow what a noise when laboring at 10000 ft and one can feel their draw on power as well). We crested most tough climbs at 35-45 mph; however I lost rpm on a couple due to traffic or animals and had to drop all the way to 1st to get over at 20-25 mph. I did pull the 50A ABS fuse prior to the trip to help allay fears of brake lock-up descending western mountains.
We used the basement air/heat quite a number of times (Leadville, CO was 25 degrees next day in Utah was 95 degrees) both in camp and on the road. No problem.

We saw many of the natural wonders of our great west from the Rockies to Salt Lake; the expanses of Utah and Nevada, and in particular the beauty of Arches and Canyonland National Parks, the fantastic Indian ruins at Hovenweep NM and Mesa Verde NP, as well as Taos and Santa Fe, NM. We are indeed blessed to live in and be able to travel in the great country of ours!!

I apologize for the long post just wanted to submit a positive post about our MH and our experiences.
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Old 10-30-2008, 06:33 AM   #3
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That's what it's all about!!!

Glad you had a great time and no failures or issues!
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:08 PM   #4
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Sounds like RVing at its best. I've noticed that as our motorhome has aged (it's a 2004), it's become more reliable and runs better. Sounds like you've hit the sweet spot as well. Thanks for the post.

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Old 11-14-2008, 12:07 AM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I did pull the 50A ABS fuse prior to the trip to help allay fears of brake lock-up descending western mountains. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have never heard of this before. Could you please elaborate. We don't get much up and down here on the east coast but we do have plans in the near future where this may come in handy.
Thanks.
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:23 AM   #6
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Rocky,
I pulled the ABS fuze as a result of my study of the many, many posts on this forum regarding brake problems/failures on Workhorse chassis. While there has not been a finding of real cause by Workhorse or NHTSA, quite a number have reported ABS sensors that malfunctioned and apparently failed to allow release of the calipers, resulting in lock-ups with all the attendant brake failures. I have done everything else that has been recommended as regards service, installed zerk, had system drained flushed and new fluid, calipers slides greased, etc. My thought is that pulling the ABS fuze and disabling the ABS system is not a big deal. Most of us have driven for many years without ABS and by exercising just a little more caution I do not believe I am compromising safety. JMHO.
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Old 11-15-2008, 12:58 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Rocky Larson:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I did pull the 50A ABS fuse prior to the trip to help allay fears of brake lock-up descending western mountains. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have never heard of this before. Could you please elaborate. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Rocky, Although you may read about one owner or another pulling their ABS fuse because it is assumed that the ABS system is causing some type of caliper lockup, may I please offer a counter opinion.

We have recently read where an owner who had already pulled their ABS fuse sustained a caliper lockup. This owner reported that by the act of simply pulling the ABS fuse, it did not prevent a caliper lockup. This is first hand testimony from one of our owners.

The ABS system on your chassis is a safety item. Disabling it is totally your option however if ABS is going to afford me directional control in a lockup situation, that's what I want. It has been already proven by anyone who had driven a vehicle that by pumping your brakes, you will stop in a shorter distance on slick surfaces. ABS does the same task but at a higher rate of speed.

We have 2 Workhorse Service Centers that often post suggestive responses without getting too technical about one item or another. Never once have we seen where it was implied that the ABS system was problematic or a cause for concern.

I would urge you to refrain from disabling your ABS system. I have had 2 Workhorse coaches and I have recently clocked over 70,000 miles on my current motorhome. My ABS is working perfectly.

About not having ABS as a choice that you make for yourself that's fine but what if the ABS helped prevent some type of situation. Ask yourself, might I have prevented bodily injury of property damage to another motorists vehicle had I been able to stop a little bit sooner and retained control of my vehicle.

Although this question or situation never comes up, what if an investigator finds an empty ABS fuse socket?
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Old 11-15-2008, 04:49 PM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:


Although this question or situation never comes up, what if an investigator finds an empty ABS fuse socket? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


What if an investigator finds a fuse socket for the ABS that contains a blown fuse?

DriVer I do not agree with your assesment of ABS brakes. Sorry but for all but severe ice, snow or extreme wet conditions, the system is useless. I do not expierience those conditions in my use of the Workhorse, and have disabled the system. And in my opinion one person having a brake lockup situation while having disabled ABS is not conclusive enough to eliminate this system as a possible cause of the ongoing brake problems being experienced by many owners. The ABS is not an uncomplicated system, in fact is very complex in operation, and can very well be all or a part of the route to the solution to this brake problem.

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Old 11-15-2008, 05:01 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by dieselclacker:
What if an investigator finds a fuse socket for the ABS that contains a blown fuse? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>dieselclacker, I think having a blown fuse is totally acceptable. You certainly can't control that.

Now on the other hand if the socket is empty .....

Like I suggested this is a situation that may never come up.
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Old 11-15-2008, 08:02 PM   #10
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These questions are directed at those members who remove the fuse to alleviate the possibility of a problem. 1) What exactly are you basing your decision (to remove the fuse) on? 2) Have you contacted Workhorse before taking this step? 3) Did Workhorse recommend using this strategy?

Thanks in advance.

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Old 11-15-2008, 11:02 PM   #11
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I am not a WH owner but having followed most of the discussion on this situation I can pretty safely answer that most people are removing the fuse as a "guess and check" method. I can assure you that Workhorse has not, and will never, recommend this procedure...it is your own choice to disable a safety item. I would say that it is sort of like not wearing your seatbelt, your own choice, but I know at least around here they will ticket you for that now too!
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Old 11-16-2008, 05:53 AM   #12
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Unless something major has changed since I was involved with the SAE subcommittee that was writing standards for ABS systems, the ABS system does not activate the brakes and does not have the ability to activate them.

It actually modulates the amount of braking action by interrupting a given brake with a train of pulses as it senses one or more wheels attempting to lock up.
I fail to see how failure of a sensor could cause a brake to lock up.
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Old 11-16-2008, 07:05 AM   #13
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Clay L, I agree a wheel speed sensor for the ABS may not cause a wheel to lock up. It could along with several other components of the system ie, release valves, ABS computer, wiring, etc. etc. etc., not allow a brake to release after being applied by the driver. This failure to release or modulate as you say, could well be the reason for overheating of a particular brake. Until a definite cause is found for the ongoing brake problems expierienced by many here, I intend to keep the ABS system disabled on my motorhome. I am just eliminating, one of the possible causes of brake overheating problem. If the solution proves to be other than ABS related, then I probably will enable the system on my Workhorse.


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