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OK the question has to be ; Have you changed the filter before ?
Because the original filter , is no longer available , and the new replacement , requires a fitting to hook up the fuel return line .
First photo is the filter location .
Second the replacement filter and fitting required.
It's been 11 years since, I changed the filter on my B-in-L's 05 Workhorse ... so I won't offer a guess as to the wrenches involved.
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99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
Tools you will need for fuel filter change.two-1/2" open end wrenches,one 13/16"(21mm) open end wrench,one 5/8'open end or (flare end wrench preferred), one 1/2' socket,one short extension(I use a short "wobble" extension) and 3/8" ratchet handle. Fluid Film,a rag.flashlight and an old cushion to support your head (you will soon see the point in that). Early on,I replaced the securing hardware with stainless which makes the job easier. The rag is to catch the small squirt of pressurized fuel as you crack the fittings. When you have finished,you should apply the Fluid Film to everything that you had to loosen so it might go easier the next time!
Tools you will need for fuel filter change.two-1/2" open end wrenches,one 13/16"(21mm) open end wrench,one 5/8'open end or (flare end wrench preferred), one 1/2' socket,one short extension(I use a short "wobble" extension) and 3/8" ratchet handle. Fluid Film,a rag.flashlight and an old cushion to support your head (you will soon see the point in that). Early on,I replaced the securing hardware with stainless which makes the job easier. The rag is to catch the small squirt of pressurized fuel as you crack the fittings. When you have finished,you should apply the Fluid Film to everything that you had to loosen so it might go easier the next time!
That's the info I needed, I'll use a flare nut wrench as well, should not have any pressure in the line anymore, MH hasn't been started for a month. Think I'll make sure my fire extinguisher is handy as well.
That's the info I needed, I'll use a flare nut wrench as well, should not have any pressure in the line anymore, MH hasn't been started for a month. Think I'll make sure my fire extinguisher is handy as well.
Thank you very much!
Before you grab wrenches and run off let me add a couple suggestions. The 13/16" wrench to hold the fitting on the filter will be a sloppy fit. You might want to take along an adjustable wrench just in case the 13/16" wrench wants to slip. Not an old worn out adjustable wrench but one which can hold the fitting while you loosen the fuel line with the 5/8" wrench. The fuel line nuts tend to rust and sometimes are really difficult to turn. If the adjustable wrench won't hold the fitting on the filter you can make a wrench using a 3/4" wrench and grinding the inside of the jaws of the wrench so it will just fit over the hex fitting. You can use the new filter as a guide to how much grinding you have to do.
When you remove the filter be sure you don't damage or lose the 'O' rings on the end of the fuel line where it fits into the filter. These 'O' rings normally stay in place on the line but I have seen them stick inside the old filter and you won't notice it until you start the engine and see a gas leak.
Before I screw the line fittings into the new filter I coat the threads with a liberal amount of chassis grease. Most any grease will work. After the filter is installed I coat the whole area of the fittings with grease to keep water out and slow rust down.
I hope you don't need this advice but from someone who has changed hundreds of these filters I felt I should throw it out there. Most of these filters I have changed (same part number) have been on cars and light trucks driven up here in winter on salted roads. Hopefully your coach hasn't been.
Lynn
That's the info I needed, I'll use a flare nut wrench as well, should not have any pressure in the line anymore, MH hasn't been started for a month. Think I'll make sure my fire extinguisher is handy as well.
Thank you very much!
Just got home from replacing the filter everything went fine without any issues & have the MH back at my house.
Before you grab wrenches and run off let me add a couple suggestions. The 13/16" wrench to hold the fitting on the filter will be a sloppy fit. You might want to take along an adjustable wrench just in case the 13/16" wrench wants to slip. Not an old worn out adjustable wrench but one which can hold the fitting while you loosen the fuel line with the 5/8" wrench. The fuel line nuts tend to rust and sometimes are really difficult to turn. If the adjustable wrench won't hold the fitting on the filter you can make a wrench using a 3/4" wrench and grinding the inside of the jaws of the wrench so it will just fit over the hex fitting. You can use the new filter as a guide to how much grinding you have to do.
When you remove the filter be sure you don't damage or lose the 'O' rings on the end of the fuel line where it fits into the filter. These 'O' rings normally stay in place on the line but I have seen them stick inside the old filter and you won't notice it until you start the engine and see a gas leak.
Before I screw the line fittings into the new filter I coat the threads with a liberal amount of chassis grease. Most any grease will work. After the filter is installed I coat the whole area of the fittings with grease to keep water out and slow rust down.
I hope you don't need this advice but from someone who has changed hundreds of these filters I felt I should throw it out there. Most of these filters I have changed (same part number) have been on cars and light trucks driven up here in winter on salted roads. Hopefully your coach hasn't been.
Lynn
Thanks for your input, well my good fitting Snap~On wreches worked fine & there is absolutely no rust under my rig, O-rings were still good.
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