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02-01-2023, 10:20 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,353
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To pull engine depends on what is on top of chassis and what tools you have available.. many times.. if you look.. one can see where the front cap is 2 pieces.. top and bottom.. they hide the bolts under trim.. so on mine.. just pull the beauty trim .. un bolt the bottom and it comes out the front.. after you pull anything out of the way.. so look under hood and see if you see 2 pieces and the bolts inside.. then rent a hand engine hoist and bring out front.. when you get trans un bolted and supported.. save about 15k.. case of beverage and some friends.. and she is out.. hardest thing really.. is deciding what to fill the hole back up with.. stroker 555 or 590.. or just go Cummings turbo or not to turbo... that is the question.. too many choices..
Good luck and keep us posted
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2000 southwind storm, workhorse custom chassis with 7.4l vortec
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02-02-2023, 05:30 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newbie23
We recently purchased a 2003 National Sea Breeze with 46k miles that the owner said had been in storage for 7 years. The owner had replaced the roof, tires and batteries but the engine did not run. We purchased it "as is" and after we towed it home and pulled the head gasket off we discovered metal shavings in the cylinders. We are looking for a company to replace the engine, but have discovered that few companies want to work on class A homes and fewer (none?) want to take on a job of this magnitude. What advice can you give so I can move forward? Grateful for all suggestions!
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Wow! Metal shavings topside? Got any pictures of the "shavings"? Did you put a magnet to them?
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TandW
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02-07-2023, 02:40 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner RV Trip Wizard
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 109
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Newbie23 where are you located? Are you working on the 8.1L? Not sure what you paid for the RV, but what you have is probably very sound and might be worth an engine rebuild. If the cylinder walls are not damaged, then a top end repair will not be that much and I am sure you can do it yourself.
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Bruce & Zoe
2005 SeaBreeze LX 8360 - 2020 Jeep Rubicon
Full Timers
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02-08-2023, 05:11 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Monrovia, IN
Posts: 543
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I had this same set of symptoms on a 1974 Pontiac Grand Prix 455. It was a cracked head. Might just need to replace/rebuild the heads. Take them to a rebuild shop and they can xray (or what ever you call the process) and find any cracks. Good luck.
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1998 National Seabreeze 1330 Limited Chevrolet P37 chassis 7.4 Vortec 2014 Jeep JKU Sport Toad
Me, Beautiful DW, sometimes kids & grandkids
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02-08-2023, 05:16 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.elliott63
I had this same set of symptoms on a 1974 Pontiac Grand Prix 455. It was a cracked head. Might just need to replace/rebuild the heads. Take them to a rebuild shop and they can xray (or what ever you call the process) and find any cracks. Good luck.
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Magnaflux.
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TandW
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02-08-2023, 05:40 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Fulda, MN
Posts: 1,240
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Why do people right away want to bad mouth an older camper?
__________________
2000 Winnebago Adventurer 32v, P32 Workhorse Chassis with 01/2000 build date with factory wide track front end, 7.4l Vortech, J71 Ultra RV upgraded 67,000 miles.
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02-09-2023, 03:33 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Monrovia, IN
Posts: 543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TandW
Magnaflux.
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Thanks! I couldn't remember that to save my life.
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02-12-2023, 09:08 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakTruk
........I've always wondered how a Workhorse engine swap would work. .
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Assuming it is a W series and not the P Series chassis, it is easier to drop the solid front axle and related suspension and take the motor out the gapping hole left there. The P series used a much more complicated IFS, and so they "usually" take it out thru the windshield or driver's door, if there is one.
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02-12-2023, 10:08 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 203
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just looked at a 2003 sea breeze on rvtrader and by the looks of it the best bet for removal might be to remove one of the windshields and pull it out that way.as someone else asked where are you located.that would help find someone that might be able to help ya.
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02-15-2023, 09:58 AM
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#24
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Community Administrator
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 21,259
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Thread Reminder
Several posts have been removed for discussing the actions of moderators in the open forum. Per the Community Rules, if you have questions or concerns about moderator actions use the Contact Us link at the bottom of every page to contact an admin.
Quote:
Public discussion about moderation or moderator decisions is not allowed. If a moderator deletes or edits one of your posts and you disagree with the action, contact a forum administrator.
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__________________
2017 Phaeton 40IH XSH Maroon Coral - Power Glide Chassis with IFS
Previous '15 Tiffin Allegro RED 38QRA and '06 Itasca Sunrise 35A
'16 Jeep JKU Wrangler Sahara or '08 Honda Goldwing
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02-15-2023, 06:54 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2023
Posts: 5
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Thanks, but I don't have the knowledge or desire to attempt something like that by myself. I cannot find anyone in the central FL area that wants to even consider this big of a job.
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02-15-2023, 07:01 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2023
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julia2005
Newbie23 where are you located? Are you working on the 8.1L? Not sure what you paid for the RV, but what you have is probably very sound and might be worth an engine rebuild. If the cylinder walls are not damaged, then a top end repair will not be that much and I am sure you can do it yourself.
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I am in Orlando and have not found any person or company that would consider this job. The four cylinders we exposed when took the head off all had shavings in them, That's pretty solid evidence the motor is history. Wish I knew what made it do that at 47K!
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02-16-2023, 06:43 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 2,131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newbie23
I am in Orlando and have not found any person or company that would consider this job. The four cylinders we exposed when took the head off all had shavings in them, That's pretty solid evidence the motor is history. Wish I knew what made it do that at 47K!
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It is NOT solid evidence the engine is history. Metal on TOP of a piston doesn't necessarily condemn anything below the top of the piston.
Clean the top to check for big gouges or cracks in the piston top. Slowly turn the crank and inspect the cylinder walls.
I think there is a good possibility the pistons, block, crankshaft, camshaft, connecting rods and associated bearings are GOOD!
Are the shavings aluminum? Are they steel?
Debris on top of the piston in all likelihood came from the intake manifold through an intake valve.
Inspect the intake manifold and heads for evidence that the shavings came from there. Pictures of the top(s) of the piston(s) with the shaving would be helpful for us to help you.
Until you know the source of the foreign material in the engine you are shooting blind. Understanding the source may be the difference between buying a couple rebuilt cylinder heads at about $750 each and fairly minimal labor and a complete engine for $Ks and another $Ks to install it! If the heads are not cracked you can probably find a local automotive machine shop that will recondition the heads for a lot less than rebuilt heads.
Don't despair...figure out where the junk came from!!!
__________________
2003 34' Georgetown on W20 Workhorse Chassis. UltraRV power mods. Doug Thorley Headers and MagnaFlow 12589 mufflers. Front Sumo Springs, Rear P32 Sumo Springs, UltraRV Track Bar.
1998 Jeep Toad.
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02-22-2023, 08:16 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2023
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeloduster
It is NOT solid evidence the engine is history. Metal on TOP of a piston doesn't necessarily condemn anything below the top of the piston.
Clean the top to check for big gouges or cracks in the piston top. Slowly turn the crank and inspect the cylinder walls.
I think there is a good possibility the pistons, block, crankshaft, camshaft, connecting rods and associated bearings are GOOD!
Are the shavings aluminum? Are they steel?
Debris on top of the piston in all likelihood came from the intake manifold through an intake valve.
Inspect the intake manifold and heads for evidence that the shavings came from there. Pictures of the top(s) of the piston(s) with the shaving would be helpful for us to help you.
Until you know the source of the foreign material in the engine you are shooting blind. Understanding the source may be the difference between buying a couple rebuilt cylinder heads at about $750 each and fairly minimal labor and a complete engine for $Ks and another $Ks to install it! If the heads are not cracked you can probably find a local automotive machine shop that will recondition the heads for a lot less than rebuilt heads.
Don't despair...figure out where the junk came from!!!
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Thank you for the feedback and giving me hope! I will check it out further!
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