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Bobray95 · 08-01-2020, 09:08 AM

I recently had a fuel pump failure and had the RV towed to a shop near my home. After several weeks they called and said they had replaced the fuel pump but there are other problems. The RV was missing on 3 cylinders. They had replaced, plugs, wires, crank sensor and temperature sensor. I drove the RV 2 miles to my home. The shop foreman told me they had done all they could do. (short staffed because of covid) On the way home it was running terrible. Before I got home the temperature gauge started climbing. I pulled over and pulled the engine cover. The engine didn't seem to be hot. I got my temperature laser and checked the engine and hoses and everything was reading 180 to 190. I drove it on to the house with no problems. I called a friend of mine who is an ACA certified mechanic. He came over and ran some test and concluded it was a bad ECM. After hours on the phone I found one that would be programed to my Vin. When it came in he came back over and installed it. It cleared up the missing but the temp gauge still maxed out. His scan gauge was showing 190. He felt like the temperature sensor could be bad so I ordered one and installed it. Same problem. I put a manual gauge in the temperature sensor hole. I left the temp sensor plugged in and tied it off to the side near the heater hose as to try and get some heat to the sensor. Changed the thermostat, flushed radiator and filled with new antifreeze. I drove the RV to the gas station to fill up the tank. The temp gauge read between 185 to 190. I drove the RV for about 50 miles and it is running fine. Idling about 750 and smooth. Is it possible there can be a bad ground wire causing this problem or something else.

HELP!

Bobray95 · 08-10-2020, 04:20 PM

WOW! 109 views and nobody has a guess.

edgray · 08-12-2020, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobray95

WOW! 109 views and nobody has a guess.

OK, I'll offer my guess to answer your only question. I guess YES.

FWIW, I have re-read your post and am still confused, since near the end you wrote "the temp gauge read between 185 to 190". Doesn't that mean the problem was resolved?

Bobray95 · 08-13-2020, 07:36 AM

Thanks for your reply EdGray. The last reading your referring to is from a mechanical gauge installed in the hole where the temperature sensor should be. The problem with leaving the mechanical gauge in all the time is there is no temperature reading going to the ECM. I would like to plug the sensor back in and the cluster gauge read correctly. Again thanks for your response.

Unplanned Tourist · 08-13-2020, 07:54 AM

Is the original temp gauge reading high as soon as you turn the key on? Or is it reading cold first, then going to hot after running for a while?

Some more info will help.

If it starts cold, then spikes after running, it's likely the sender.

If it spikes as soon as you turn the key, possible you have a short to ground on the wire from the sender.

Hope that helps.

Happy Glamping.

dieselclacker · 08-13-2020, 08:04 AM

Could the dash gauge be bad? If the engine is running well and showing normal temps on the mechanical gauge And the sender has been replaced........I would consider installing a Scan Gauge II and be done with it.
I think I would also be seeking out another shop to be doing work on the motorhome.

George Schweikle · 08-13-2020, 08:24 AM

This is most likely. My current and recent P-30 motorhomes had dashboard temperature gauges that worked but were significantly off the actual temp. I monitor engine coolant temperature with a scangauge and never even look at the dashboard gauge.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselclacker

Could the dash gauge be bad? If the engine is running well and showing normal temps on the mechanical gauge And the sender has been replaced........I would consider installing a Scan Gauge II and be done with it.