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Old 09-28-2010, 04:30 PM   #15
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If I ground the slip ring, the horn will honk, but I don't understand how the horn button can do that, as nothing on the steering column is grounded. If I run a ground wire to the steering column the horn would honk continuously.
This is getting to be depressing!
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lascar View Post
If I ground the slip ring, the horn will honk, but I don't understand how the horn button can do that, as nothing on the steering column is grounded.
Well, thatís pretty much what the horn button does so it sounds like everything is OK all the way up to the slip ring.
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If I run a ground wire to the steering column the horn would honk continuously.
This is getting to be depressing!
This part puzzles me???
Here is another schematic that shows the ground connectors for the steering column.

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Old 09-28-2010, 08:04 PM   #17
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My horn quit also I had to replace the slip ring,it looked ok but after I went to Orielly's auto parts and saw a new one nice and shiney,it worked.I guess the metal on the plastic was a little worn.It was driving me crazy that I could get the horn to work everytime I touched my tester that was grounded to the little button,but the horn button would not do the same.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:48 AM   #18
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I can now honk the horn by grounding the contact pin in the steering column. Now the next step is to put it all back together, ground the steering column, and hope everything works.
Thanks for the wiring diagrams Fulltimer.
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Old 09-30-2010, 09:11 AM   #19
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Fulltimer's wiring diagram made it pretty clear that the steering column should be grounded. Mine is not. When I ground it, the horn works. I don't know how it was grounded originally or why the ground went away. I found a good ground connection on the cross member a the front of the frame. Im going to run a wire from there to the steering column.
I've learned a lot about the horn wiring, fuses and relay during this project. Soon I'll be finished and can get the motorhome inspected. Good thing, my registration expires today.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:16 AM   #20
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I am afraid I can not improve on the information you have already been given. But.... Till you find the problem here is a bumper sticker for you


You can find them at Horn Broken Watch for Finger Or other designs on the same theme at Horn Broken Watch For Finger Bumper Stickers

Hopefully you are enjoying the laugh
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Old 10-02-2010, 11:30 AM   #21
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My horn now works. The problem was that somehow the original ground to the steering column went away. I ran a wire from a good ground on the frame, to the steering column, actually with a wire bolted to a hose clamp around the steering column, and now it works ok.
Thanks to all that helped solve this problem.
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Old 10-02-2010, 01:37 PM   #22
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( bolted to the steering column with a hose clamp) so to insure the gound (Doesn't go away again) the paint on column needs to be removed under the hose clamp to insure good contact over the life cycle of age /temp/ and moisture changes.

Depending on the vehicle, the horn ground circuit is provided by:

1. through the structure of the strg column to vehicle mounting bolts
2. actual copper wire in the strg column connector to vehicle.
3. grounding clip on strg column that is compressed to the vehicle structure during assembly. (like a star washer)
4. through the clock spring coil -(typical air bag/ wheel control buttons)
5 Radio or optical tranmitter/ receiver system.

Since the Steering column has a slip ring to jump the strg wheel rotation to the fixed structure the ground path is provided by any of menthods 1-3.

So if you have a good fuse, test with a jumper wire from bare metal spot on the column structure to a good ground. if it works, make it permanent. saves a lot of time over pulling the wheel, ect and chasing wires under the dash.

Sorry I saw this to late to help you.

gg
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Old 10-02-2010, 06:56 PM   #23
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I finally was able to remove the 4" dia. steel plate that was below the steering wheel. it was held in place by a wire lock ring. The slip ring was under that plate and has a conductor ring on both sides. The top side was contacted by the steering wheel, and the bottom side by a spring loaded contact that is part of the turn signal switch. I still don't have condutivity between that contact and the relay terminal. I going to remove the turn signal switch and unplug the connector, then check again for a connection to the horn relay.
Whatever you're doing, keep in mind that the relay is activated by the horn button completing the circuit to ground. Does the horn work if you ground the neg. term. at the relay coil? When you jumped out the relay socket, you proved that the 12v was present at the relay contact term and that the other contact term. was connected to the horn.
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