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07-17-2016, 08:23 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 29
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Hose clamp removal
Hello, I have a 2002 P32 chassis with 8.1 engine. I am in the middle of replaceing water pump, fan clutch, camshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor and all hoses. I jacked unit up removed passenger side tire and have removed all items except I'm having trouble with the radiator side hose clamp for top hose. The tabs of the OEM band clamp are turned to about 3:00 position from front view and the high pressure AC line is run right above clamp. I can barely feel the clamp ears with my fingers. I have looked at the cable operated clamp removal tools but most of them have a 24 in reach and I need 30 inch. Anyone have a secret tip or tool to remove this clamp?
Have a great day
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07-17-2016, 01:36 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 685
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Having due regard for the AC line,would cutting the clamp with a die grinder equipped with an abrasive disc be an option?
__________________
04 Southwind 37C W22
DIY Rear Panhard Rod
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07-17-2016, 05:53 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: El Paso Texas
Posts: 146
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Option 1: Cut the hose? By a New Hose.
Option 2: Cut the clamp with a Dremel?
__________________
El Paso Texas, 2008 Adventurer Limited UFO (Rear Gas Engine), Ultrapower, Magnaflow, MSD Coils, Sumo Springs, TruCenter, flat tow CJ7 & 2018 Civic Hatchback
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07-18-2016, 01:54 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 29
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Hose clamp
Thanks for the responses, I can barely get my hand into location of clamp and touch it with my fingers, no way to get a dremel into it. I have been trying to fabricate a tool using 1/4 all thread, but no luck so far. I think I'm on the right track but it's not right yet. Luckly I'm not in a big hurry or broke down on side of road. I don't think leaving a 14 year hose on is a very good option seeing as I'm replacing everthing else in cooling system, except radiator, which I would have to sell my house to pay for.
Thanks again
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07-19-2016, 01:57 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,881
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I changed all my hoses on mine about a month ago and I completely understand what you mean about that top hose. There is no way to access it from the front or the bottom. I ended up using the clamp tool and laying on top of the engine. It was still a huge PIA and took about 20 minutes before I was successful. The only other option I could think of was to get some super long needle nose pliers and go from the bottom, but I doubt that would have worked.
Good luck!
__________________
2010 Phaeton 40QTH on a PG Chassis.
2017 Lincoln MKX.
Air Force One brake system and Blue OX Towbar.
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07-19-2016, 07:27 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 353
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I used several long 1/4"drive extensions with a 5/16 socket to get the "impossible" clamps off my rig. Someone put it on there, it will come off....
__________________
Bill
1991 Winnebago Warrior 23EC Class A
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07-19-2016, 08:58 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,502
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"The tabs of the OEM band clamp are turned to about 3:00 position from front view and the high pressure AC line is run right above clamp."
So The tabs are facing the street side.
Same as were mine.
I used a spring clamp pliers and a modified channel grip with a notch ground into the jaws. I worked from space inboard of front of drivers side front tire. Was a bear to get at! I was able to squeeze and re-position clamp tabs to point downward. This gave me a better angle for the spring clamp pliers to be effective in moving the clamp over the hose..Not sure but I may have had the fan shrouds removed at that time too.
good luck
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342, W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus, Scan Gauge II.. 2004 Jeep Liberty, Blue-Ox Adventa..
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07-20-2016, 03:43 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 29
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Hose clamp
"" SUCESS"" I finally got the clamp off. I was as happy as when my first child was born. I'm glad some others have had the same experience and pain that I did. There was a section of bracket that prevented me from getting onto the clamp tabs from the engine direction. I ended up buying the clamp removal tool that has the 2 ft. cable extension. I added a 30 inch piece of 3/8 inch wood dowel with my own homemade hinge mechanism on each end so that I could operate the rods to turn the clamping device to match the ears of hose clamp, I ran this up from the bottom and got it loose. The tabs on the band clamps for the bypass hose were both turned to the engine and I had to take a saw and cut it in half to get the water pump off. The problem with the top radiator hose is that it was all assembled at the Chevy factory and then the coach builder installed a dash assembly as close as possible right on top of the radiator.
Thanks for all of the great suggestions and comments
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