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Old 12-10-2007, 10:45 AM   #1
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If one were to in fact find the correct serpentine belt, how would one change the belt? I have changed the belt on other chevy trucks, but looking in from the front engine door, the belt is behind the two big fans. Does one remove the inside cover and change it that way or would one remove the motor??

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Old 12-10-2007, 10:45 AM   #2
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If one were to in fact find the correct serpentine belt, how would one change the belt? I have changed the belt on other chevy trucks, but looking in from the front engine door, the belt is behind the two big fans. Does one remove the inside cover and change it that way or would one remove the motor??

Thanks
Johnnie
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:31 PM   #3
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I snagged this from the Workhorse manual.

Well based on the following belt routing you will do it from under the coach ....




Remove
1. Install a 3/8" drive ratchet on the drive belt tensioner arm and rotate the drive belt arm counterclockwise.
2. Remove the belt.
3. Slowly release the tension on the drive belt tensioner pulley.

Install
1. Install the new belt via the routing photo.
2. Using the 3/8" ratchet move the tensioner arm so the belt can be positioned correctly.
3. Release the tension.
4. Start the engine for a final test.
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Old 12-11-2007, 06:28 PM   #4
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i have changed these belts and its tight, you will be changing and rerouting the belt from both top and underneath, suggest getting a serpentine belt tool, gear wrench has a nice style with a racket feature that helps with tight areas,
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Old 12-11-2007, 07:46 PM   #5
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Wouldn't even consider it!! That's why we pay the big shop rates for, to get it done right and to save the skin on our knuckles!!
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Old 12-12-2007, 05:12 AM   #6
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Go in thru the doghouse. Lay a heavy blanket over the engine, give it a big hug, and git 'er dun!!
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Old 12-14-2007, 03:58 PM   #7
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Now we just have to figure out what size the new one is supposed to be. I've seen 103" and 108". Which is correct? Car Quest only shows a 103" available-- no 108" in the parts book. I like to have the new part on hand when doing a job. I don't trust the workhorse folks near me to do it. I'll work it myself.
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Old 12-14-2007, 05:39 PM   #8
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It seems no one knows the answer to the correct size. Guess the only way is to take it off and size it according to matching size of a new one. Either 103 or 108.
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Old 12-14-2007, 06:38 PM   #9
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Mine is 108"
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:16 AM   #10
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I changed my serpentine belt on my P32. It was bad, very bad...It took 3 of us hours to get it on. I sat in the wheel well, my wife was underneath and my daughter was fishing through the dog house. There is no room, you can't see and that big loop back easily gets confused...over and over again.
At one point I thought about pulling the radiator so I could get at it from the front. My belt wouldn't stop squealing so I had no choice. I replaced it with a Dayco and it's been good so far. I'm not sure I would do it again...I've replaced belts in all my vehicles and while I have had problems I have never almost given up. I almost gave up on this. We were at the final last try when we got it. I'm sure that if you have a lot of experience replacing belts on the 8.1 it wouldn't be too bad but man, that first time is a nightmare. That was last summer and I've forgotten it all...so if I had to do it again, it would all new. I would probably do it but I would sure think very hard first.
If I were to do it again I might illicit some helpful friends beforehand. I'm not sure one person can do this.
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Old 12-22-2007, 06:45 AM   #11
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We had a noise coming from the front end of the engine on our W20 last summer. I thought it could be the idler/tensioner so I found a replacement at NAPA. I had a spare belt so I thought I would replace it as well. Got the old belt off with no trouble, replaced the tensioner pretty easily, but my spare belt was too small.(guess I need the 108" one) So I put the original back on. Not a bad job, did it all from below. Only tool needed was a 3/8 power bar.
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Old 12-23-2007, 06:15 PM   #12
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My method for the P chassis chevy engine is to use a 3/8 ratchet with an extension pipe to pull back the tension pulley then quickly lift the belt out from under the the idler ...now you can take your time removing the belt....reverse this operation for installing the new one...so you only need to hold back the tension long enough to position the belt under the idler pulley....I also removed the oil filler tube to give me more swing room....it only takes one person working from the top to accomplish this....and a must for the do it yourselfer...now you have the old one for a spare...the tools you need on board...and especially the experience for doing a possible replacement on the road...saving time and hundreds of dollars....
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:13 AM   #13
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I changed my belt this weekend. WOW. Very tight and tricky but I did manage and felt a sigh of relief and accomplishment when I finished. I bought the 108" belt but guess what, wrong one so another trip to NAPA to get the 103". Oh well, It gave me a chance to cool off in this South Georgia heat and get mentally prepared for the job. I actually had it on in about 30 minutes to my surprise. Also changed pugs, wires, and fuel filter. Went on a 30 mile test ride, and now I'm ready to hit the road again. Happt trails to all, wherever they may be !!
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:00 AM   #14
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Actually the later models with a single belt aren't much of a hassel, especially with a fully removable dog house cover rather than just a lid. It's the older ones with the serpintine and 3 V belts that are a challenge. Usually you need two people and gain access from the top, the bottom and both fender wells before it's over with. Either way, once you do it, then you know and it's much easier the next time.
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