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Old 02-10-2014, 05:44 PM   #1
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Known issues for 2001-2004 Chassis?

Hello,

I'm researching to buy a motor home for full-timing. The RV years I'm looking at are 2002-2004, so (I guess) the Chevy/Workhorse chassis years would be 2001-2004.

What are some issues/problems with those chassis years I should take into consideration?
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:15 PM   #2
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The big bear in the woods is brakes! Insure the recall was accomplished, followed by a good inspection.

Fred
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:31 PM   #3
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The biggest issue was the brake recall. I believe there was also a recall involving some sort of clip in the fuel line. Any dealer should be able to find out if any outstanding recalls were done using the VIN# for the chassis.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
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The biggest issue was the brake recall. I believe there was also a recall involving some sort of clip in the fuel line. Any dealer should be able to find out if any outstanding recalls were done using the VIN# for the chassis.
Thanks... So other than the recalls, the chassis for these years are pretty much trouble-free?
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:54 PM   #5
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My 03 needed new shocks because of purposing in front end placed Bilsteins and solved that problem and in 04 WH started to place them also.
Here is a sticky from above that will cover just about everything else for chassis.
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:56 PM   #6
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The Actia instrument panel was a sore point in many Workhorse chassis of these year models. Missing pixels in the display left them unreadable, and required replacement.

Some owners had problems with burned spark plug wires causing engine missfires. The problem was not evident in all brands of coaches. The problem was said to be caused by a lack of airflow over the engine.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:41 AM   #7
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The Actia instrument panel was a sore point in many Workhorse chassis of these year models. Missing pixels in the display left them unreadable, and required replacement.

Some owners had problems with burned spark plug wires causing engine missfires. The problem was not evident in all brands of coaches. The problem was said to be caused by a lack of airflow over the engine.
My 2002 35U does not have the actia display it has a regular old style display no LCD screens seems to be more trouble free.
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:40 PM   #8
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I did not see the following info in the link above so am posting it. (might be worth adding it to the link).

The 2003 chassis (W20 and W22) had a 2 inch front stabilizer shaft. Often called an anti sway bar. In September of 2003 WH changed to a 2.5 inch bar.
If your chassis has the 2 inch bar I would strongly recommend that you have the 2.5 inch bar installed. I did and it made a huge improvement in roll or side to side sway.

This is from an email I got from WH in 2005:

"The part number for the Front Stabilizer Bar with Brackets is: W0005643.

This bar was found to have an advantage over the original 2" bar, and was put into regular production on 9/2/2003.

The installation is very straightforward. Remove 4 retaining nuts while
supporting bar, remove bar, hold new bar in position, reinstall 4 retaining nuts, and torque to specification. This procedure is NOT meant to replace the service manual, but is a generalized procedure.

The upgraded stabilizer bar has been shown to provide the following
benefits:
1. Reduced Body Roll when cornering.
2. Reduced "rocking" when passed by or passing large vehicles.
3. Reduced "rocking" when traversing bumps on an angle."


The installation procedure is below- I did not raise the coach, just crawled under it:

Stabilizer Shaft Replacement (Front) (W20/W22)

Removal Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist
2. Remove the nuts and washers from the stabilizer shaft clamp and the right front leaf spring.
3. Remove the nuts and washers from the stabilizer shaft clamp and the left front leaf spring, and remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.
4. Remove the clamps from the stabilizer shaft.
5. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer shaft.

Installation Procedure
1. Install the insulators to the stabilizer shaft.
2. Install the clamps to the stabilizer shaft.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices in the WCC Service Manual.

3. Install the washers and nuts to the stabilizer shaft clamp and the left front leaf spring.
4. Install the washers and nuts to the stabilizer shaft clamp and the right front leaf spring.

Tighten the stabilizer shaft clamp nuts to
373 N·m (275 lb ft).
5. Lower the vehicle.
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Old 02-12-2014, 07:54 PM   #9
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Thanks Clay L, I have added to list.
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Old 02-13-2014, 10:26 AM   #10
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Thanks Clay L, I have added to list.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:05 PM   #11
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The 2004 W22 like mine needed a screw added to the bottom middle of the engine fan shroud. The clearance between the fan and the shroud at the bottom is so close that when fully engaged, the shroud gets sucked up and may rub. Eventually it can wear all the way thru the shroud and cause the fan to self destruct and may launch blades into the radiator. Simply pulling it down a bit, drilling a hole thru the shroud & underlying metal bracket and adding a self--tapping sheet metal screw will prevent an expensive repair.

I had the burnt spark plug wires twice in the first 15k miles. Workhorse installed under warranty a vent kit to provide the back two spark plugs on both sides some cool air. That was 50K miles ago and all is well today.
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