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01-29-2020, 08:06 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 6
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Multifunction switch remedy
I cannot find the info on the 4 way flasher, turn signal continued failure and remedy. I have seen bits and pieces of info but not the entire article to fix it. I have replaced this switch three times and it has burned out again.
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01-29-2020, 08:13 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full time RV'er
Posts: 5,140
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This is an open forum and it's typical for posters to mention the age, brand, and model of the RV. And in your case, the engine type and chassis manufacturer since you're asking a chassis question.
In a Freightliner chassis, they hide the flasher deep inside a huge bundle of wire looms all zip tied together. Very hard to find.
Can't tell anything from your post. If you posted before, didn't see it.
Thanks!
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01-29-2020, 08:29 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,387
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I am guessing you have a Workhorse chassis?
Do you pull a toad?
Maybe there's simply too much load if you are running the power for 2 sets of lights through the multi function switch.
Time to switch to LEDs?
Happy Glamping.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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01-29-2020, 11:16 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 6
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Multifunction switch.
This is for my 2003 Fleetwood Bounder with a workhorse chassis. This problem is pretty widely known in the rv community. 4 way flasher, turn signal, cruise control, windshield wiper multifunction switch keeps melting due to extra load created when splicing into the chassis wiring for the toad lights. I have seen some reference to intalling relays using after market kits to remedy this failure, but I can't locate where to get the kits or how they work, where to install them, etc. .
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01-29-2020, 11:42 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,387
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I didn't tap into my Ranger lights.
Simple to install a set of aftermarket tail/turn/stop LED lights.
The stock brake lights come on when the Brake Buddy applies the brakes on the toad, but other than that, it's LED for me.
Some people go to the trouble of putting an extra LED bulb in the original housing, but often it will not be as bright as the aftermarket LEDs.
Happy Glamping.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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01-30-2020, 10:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neveragain
I cannot find the info on the 4 way flasher, turn signal continued failure and remedy. I have seen bits and pieces of info but not the entire article to fix it. I have replaced this switch three times and it has burned out again.
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I wrote this a while ago. Toward the end, I added the solution -- relays. It isn't that difficult a wiring job and the toughest part was drilling a couple of holes in the frame to mount them. I have had no failures since I did this. Page 3 has the instructions for adding the relays.
There is no 'kit' that I am aware of. You just need two relays and some wiring smarts.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/multi...in-103261.html
Another option is to replace all of the bulbs, including whatever you tow, with LEDs.
In 2011 this wasn't a reasonable option.
Good luck!
__________________
2001 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U, W-20 8.1
F+R Trac bars, F+R sway bars, SafTsteer, F Sumo Springs, 4 Koni FSDs
2007 Forest River Lexington Ford E450 Chassis
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01-31-2020, 09:37 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 6
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Switch
Thanks for all the help. I think I'm on the right track now.
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07-03-2021, 03:46 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 9
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cruise control work?
Is it normal for the cruise control to still work when the multifunction switch is bad? 2002 Fleetwood Bounder 39R DP on freightliner chassis.
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07-15-2021, 12:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Beverslee Hills, Calif
Posts: 203
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Operative word is 'multi' as there are several 'switches' and many wires inside that OVERLY complicated almost silly/stupid GM ONLY switch mess.
Have never seen a Japanese brand have so many functions on a single pod arm - really is crazy IMO !
My current Nissan has lights & turn signals on a pod on left and wipers on right side, cruise control is on steering wheel, it is REALLY REALLY stupid to mix up many functions in a single area & on a single control device - asking for confusion in a emergency situation!! - ergonomics experts would shudder with such a confusing mess of switches !!
(ps: would not be sooo bad if NOT crucial functions such as lights and wipers - many newer cars with no touch screens have lots of function via a rotating 'switch' and a single display and push to select - ALL NOT highly important things though !!!)
Why did GM do it, as most things done by them that make little sense - $ !!! GM does not care if the switch cost $150-$200 to replace - why should they, its YOUR $ and NOT during warranty.
pps: have you been able to take the switch apart, you may can 'refurbish' bad contacts via some careful soldering or rewire flaky wiring, or replace wires etc ?
GL!
Quote:
Originally Posted by BmanRRT
Is it normal for the cruise control to still work when the multifunction switch is bad? 2002 Fleetwood Bounder 39R DP on freightliner chassis.
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2007 WhineyBagels W24 54k mi Allison 2100mh
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