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Old 08-30-2009, 04:29 PM   #1
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No Cruise, No Brake Lights, ABS Warning

We are on the road and are having a few problems that I think are related. Our first symptom was no Cruise Control, followed a bit later by our IP flashing an ABS warning message. The ABS warning has come and gone randomly but the CC still hasn't worked. We've checked the CC fuse, good, but replaced it with a new one anyway. We then checked our brake sensor switch on the pedal to make sure that the pedal made good contact. Nice and tight. After a bit of headscratching, we checked the brake lights and found them inop as well. Turn signals work, 4way flashers work and driving lights work, just no brake lights. Checked and replaced the brake light fuse with no results. I'm thinking of replacing the pedal brake switch Monday if I can find one here in Hohenwald Tennessee. Any thing else I should be looking at? Normally, I tend to look at the last work that was done to maybe get a clue if something there might have been a contributing factor. Last week we were at Fosters Truck and Trailer, a Workhorse Service Center in Columbus Ohio, having dash AC work done. Their service was excellent and I will highly recommend them in this forum, but I don't think there is a connection, as our problems didn't show up until two days and 350 miles later.

Y'All got any Idears??
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Old 08-30-2009, 05:02 PM   #2
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Not being familiar with the "style" of your rear lights, are the "inop" brake lights the same bulbs that illiminate when you turn on the flashers / turn signals? If not, may I suggest you simply check the brake light bulbs.

I spent hours last weekend trying to find the problem with the WIRING to my son's boat trailer brake lights. My mistake was looking at the bulbs....last. :(
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:09 PM   #3
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no cruise etc

Had a similar problem years ago...Tech found problem in the tow car wiring harness wiring box attached to the underside of the motorhome....corrosion,,,,,RKL
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:14 PM   #4
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I went thru this sometime ago... You can read the details in this IRV2 Thread. My problem was caused by a short to ground in my toad cable.

As for the ABS light... pull the sensors, clean them, lube them and reinstall. The light should go out after a 1/4 mile of driving unless you have a bad sensor or other problem. For a How To on cleaning your ABS sensor Look Here

Bottom line - check for blown fuses in the fuse panel attached to the fire wall. The fuse panels are documented Here

FYI - if you lose the brake light fuse you also lose your Hydro Boost.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:54 AM   #5
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Thanks Ed, Rkl and Dale. Good stuff and quick replies. That was a good idea Ed to check the bulbs. Did so this morning and they are good. Checked the brake lights with the Toad unplugged and still no-go. As far as the ABS goes, Dale I've had your page bookmarked for a while now and went there before you posted to me. Everybody should have that page in their B'Marks. As we need to leave this Park today I think we'll head into Huttons Chev in Memphis to have them run a few tests for us and maybe get a quick fix to what be happenin'. They're a Workhorse Service Center and should have a book on crossover parts if needed. Thanks and we'll post our findings here.
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:20 PM   #6
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Dale's problem was blowing fuses due to a toad wiring intermittent short.
If no blown fuses, check the wiring bundle within the steering column. Enough of the trouble is related to wiring that runs to controls @ the wheel that you might have a pinched harness there.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:00 AM   #7
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All, as I have posted I am having trouble with the curse not working, checked all the usual suspects, I must DW to help with light check. Keep us all posted.

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Old 09-02-2009, 03:38 PM   #8
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DW returned from work, and I got her to push break pedal, as l looked at the break lights, found one of the break lights did not work, in the am I will check the bulb and replace same. I suspect that will fix the cruse problem. No trip planned until early October, so will see if the cruse works. I will advise.

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Old 09-03-2009, 09:13 AM   #9
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Well, we got our Cruise/ABS/Brake Light problem fixed. Feel like a Dummy, but thats how we learn.
There was a blown fuse in the panel under the hood that we missed caused by a short in the tow wiring. The Workhorse manual did label one of the fuses 'Stop' and I skipped over it. Just being a bit careless on my part. Huttons Chevy did find the burnt fuse for us -$149.88 - but that's all. We had to do the rest of the trouble-shooting and repairs ourselves, and will not recommend them as a Quality Workhorse Service Center due to their poor service work.
We are now back on the road with working Brake Lights, operational Cruise Control and no warning ABS buzzer. Life is Good ... Louisiana here we come!
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Old 09-03-2009, 10:18 AM   #10
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AkTrek, as I live in Louisiana, what part of the state are you'all going?

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Old 09-03-2009, 06:31 PM   #11
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Humm.. I think i suggested..... Ahh, never mind
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:20 PM   #12
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Dale, you didn't just suggest .. you nailed it! along with RKL and EngineerMike. Because there was no visible fuse blown, I was POSITIVE that the brake pedal switch was the culprit in this little mystery and stopped looking right there. And, well, I was kinda right, (if this helps my lowering Macho-self esteem any) in that the blown fuse was connected to the switch in question. I shoulda listened to my betters and at least checked. Lesson learned and you are Da Man!
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:37 AM   #13
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Fuses are strange animals, A "Blown" fuse, can be determined by visual inspection but an OPEN fuse, may or may not..

Highcurrent makes for a hot wire that melts and blows. This can be seen from outside on a glass or plastic casedfuse,,,, Such as most all automotoive fuses, but if the failure is the connection between the wire and the end cap on a cartridge fuse, or the blades on a blade fuse, then.... You can not see it.

And I've seen dozens of fuses (I'm a certified electronics Tech. Do not work in that field but do own a lot of stuff, most of it has cartridge type (3ag) Fuses) that have failed that way

They symptoms you gave were dignostic by the way, no 12v to brake light switch.
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Fuses are strange animals, A "Blown" fuse, can be determined by visual inspection but an OPEN fuse, may or may not..

Highcurrent makes for a hot wire that melts and blows. This can be seen from outside on a glass or plastic casedfuse,,,, Such as most all automotoive fuses, but if the failure is the connection between the wire and the end cap on a cartridge fuse, or the blades on a blade fuse, then.... You can not see it.

And I've seen dozens of fuses (I'm a certified electronics Tech. Do not work in that field but do own a lot of stuff, most of it has cartridge type (3ag) Fuses) that have failed that way

They symptoms you gave were dignostic by the way, no 12v to brake light switch.
This is why one should carry a DVM, and check fuses at the checkpoints of the fuse, then the terminals.....

Visual is iffy at best...Especially with my eyes!
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