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Old 09-15-2022, 11:41 AM   #1
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No reverse signal P30 Chevy

Ok, here is a real head scratcher for me. Hopefully some of you electrical gurus can help with this. I have a 98 National Sea Breeze on a Chevy P30 chassis. I have been fighting electrical gremlins since march. Had a breakdown that resulted in replacing the ignition switch. More electrical issues with the TPS and IAC modules, both replaced along with the distributor (rotor flew off inside as screws backed out), new plug wires. I am not getting an power at my backup camera when shifting into reverse and the backup lights do not come on. Neutral safety switch gone bad, right? Nope! I replaced the neutral safety switch last night with no joy. Also, my autopark system id not activating and my power levelers power on at the panel but will not actuate. All this I believe is tied together but after replacing the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and checking for and replacing any blown fuses I'm at a loss as to where to look next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a brake light on currently as I think my hydro boost needs replaced. That is if I can get my hands on one. Thanks.
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Old 09-15-2022, 12:04 PM   #2
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The P30 Chevy Motorhome Service Guide will be your friend. Look in the files section of this board.

Locating the chassis wiring diagram will also be another friend. I found one for my ‘91 P30 coach through some tenacious searching.

I did have to replace my hydroboost due to it leaking. They didn’t make ‘em new any more for the ‘91 (that I could find) - ended up getting a rebuilt from NAPA. A pain to replace.

Hydroboost and brake lights have no windows interface. If it’s a brake tail light staying on then the problem could be the brake pedal switch (less common but if your having issues with your cruise control, could be the culprit) or a bad ground for the lights (very common).
If the brake light coming on is the brake light on the dash - you’ve got issues with the brake system - meaning the balance switch between the front brake hydraulic pressure and rear brake hydraulic pressure is seeing too great of a differential. The switch is a safety mechanism to tell you you have hydraulic issues with your brakes.
If you don’t know that the brake hydraulics have been properly cared for, you need to do a complete flush of the system, drive the coach to get the brake fluid hot, and flush again.
Or better, do a complete rebuild of the brake system/master cylinder and line cleaning.
Best evidence of the issue is by looking at the brake fluid in the master cylinder - if dark or black - system needs an immediate complete servicing. Replace all hydraulic hoses (3 - 2 in front, 1 at rear) when you service the system.

Just a word of advice on the brakes -
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Old 09-15-2022, 08:57 PM   #3
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Thanks for the brake info. The light on the dash for brake/parking brake is on. Sometimes the peadel won't come back up on its own and sometimes feels like there is no power assist. The issue is electrical related to not getting a signal for power when shifting into reverse but won't stary in gear. I have a complete set of tech manuals that I'm perusing but thought someone out there might have experienced this same issue.
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Old 09-16-2022, 06:33 AM   #4
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Check for a switch on the transmission by the shifter. On my 2000 P32 that one controls the autopark along with other switches. The brake light staying on also indicates an autopark problem. The switch on the trans may just need adjusting.
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Old 09-16-2022, 10:39 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David 70 View Post
Check for a switch on the transmission by the shifter. On my 2000 P32 that one controls the autopark along with other switches. The brake light staying on also indicates an autopark problem. The switch on the trans may just need adjusting.
I just replaced the neutral safety switch on the transmission where the shift linkage connects. I will check for alignment. Thanks for the input.
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Old 10-02-2022, 02:18 PM   #6
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Checked to see if adjusting the neutral safety switch would work. Still no joy! At a loss at this point.
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Old 10-02-2022, 02:28 PM   #7
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Some reverse lights work with pressure from the trans, while in reverse.

No pressure, no lights, no clutch engagement. Talk to a transmission shop or Brazels, I think. They are the experts on Workhorse.
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Old 10-03-2022, 07:27 PM   #8
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It's electrical only. Transmission work fine. I get no backup lights or 12v power to trigger the backup camera when shifting into reverse. The autopark does not run regardless of the shift lever position and the levelor panel comes on but they will mot actuate. It's like the systems don't know what state the transmission us in. Mechanically the transmission us fine. Frustrated beyond words with this. Thanks for all the input so far.
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Old 10-03-2022, 07:43 PM   #9
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This unsorted collection of old manuals for Barth MH's has several links for P30, P32, P37, manuals and other stuff. Ads, Documentation, Brochures/Schematics - Forum
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:11 PM   #10
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You are going to.. have to.. break down each problem.. order new auto park system switches.. light switch and rgs .. the part # are on them.. you may have a bad relay.. so get that.. part numbers clearly marked on old ones.. go to favorite online store.. if you have a bad light switch.. the auto park system will still work.. you will be able to hear it.. so.. if bad auto park system light switch.. the light on dash will stay on all the time.. so do auto park system maintenance.. let's see how far you get..

Now.. you said your ignition switch burned out.. and you had to replace a lot of fuses.. there is a fuse for auto park system... and it is a real pain to get to.. so get cellphone with flash on and record on the driver's side fuse box where your left foot would be.. the fuse you are looking for is all the way to the top... far left.. on the fuse box. Top.. . 10amp.. pull it and replace.. hope you are good at standing on head.. the fuse box has an arrow marked AP. And points to the fuse.. long needle nose pliers is a must..

Now my levelers are hwh and there is another inline fuse for that.. it goes to the yellow knob .. it is well hidden.. again trace that with cellphone with flash on and record all the wires and see if you can find it.. I had to remove the front gauge bezzle to get at it.. it is back close to firewall in between fuse box and yellow knob.. I think it's 10amp..

Next.. you said you replaced the ignition switch.. but did you closely inspect the harness.? . because it will melt and burn the connection inside.. so you got to look inside the connector.. and at each pin of harness..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:29 PM   #11
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Now my backup camera is Voyger. And that is all inside the dash.. and yes.. sorry to add to your misery .. but there is an inline fuse for that system in the dash.. only way to it.. is pull dash bezzle.. and be careful.. best to disconnect all batteries negative wires.. 1st.. and when you go the pull dash.. pull just enough to see in there.. or you will break dash electronic harness.. so tilt steering wheel all the way to rear.. and pull dash out just enough to set it on steering wheel column.. the backup camera system is small black box.. on far right and we'll hidden.. it's kinda in the middle part of dash.. in front of dog house.. all that is.. if the monitor and camera are not working.. if monitor works.. I am not sure.. but if nothing works.. you need to pull dash.. the Voyger system has it's own big harness and inline fuse.. you will have to trace the wires.. again use cellphone with flash on and record.. remember.. your cellphone is your best friend and fits where your head cannot..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 10-03-2022, 10:38 PM   #12
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If my memory serves me right.. there are a good many inline fuses under dash bezzle.. only way to them is through the dash.. if you just decide to completely pull dash bezzle.. because yours does not lift up.. mine does not.. use cellphone with flash on and record all the wires and which sides they go.. be careful disconnecting.. the connector are old and brittle.. so slow down.. take your time.. use all safety precautions.. your back will get tired .. take breaks.. use cellphone.. there are millions of connections.. Mark them with markers.. no power.. all batteries negative wires off.. no shore, no generator.. no solar..
Pay very close attention to central harness.. it connects to printed circuit board.. and has 2 ears on each side.. and is very brittle.. by the way.. the gauge cluster is out of 85 to 95 Chevy truck.. there are thousands in salvage yards.. so is most of the stuff..
Good luck and keep us posted
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Old 10-04-2022, 11:10 AM   #13
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Donr103,
Lots of good info there, many thanks. My voyager camera monitor is mounted overhead on the bulkhead above both front seats. There is an access panel by means of a battery powered clock. I know about that inline fuse and last I checked it was good. I'll have another look but my monitor powers on manually just not getting a power signal when shifting into reverse. I stood on my head and checked all of the fuses again and did find the 10amp A/A fuse blown. If memory serves me correct, that powers the autopark system. Still non functional. Not a big deal as my shoes are so far out of adjustment it does not hold right now anyway. The 2 most important things are the backup lights and the levelers. I have can manually turn the backup monitor on so that is not an issue. I need to check the Ford style ignition relay for the levelers as I have replaced it 7 years ago. I've been chasing electrical gremlins for 8 months now. Not fun but getting things back in order 1 at a time. Thanks all.
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Old 10-04-2022, 11:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donr103 View Post
You are going to.. have to.. break down each problem.. order new auto park system switches.. light switch and rgs .. the part # are on them.. you may have a bad relay.. so get that.. part numbers clearly marked on old ones.. go to favorite online store.. if you have a bad light switch.. the auto park system will still work.. you will be able to hear it.. so.. if bad auto park system light switch.. the light on dash will stay on all the time.. so do auto park system maintenance.. let's see how far you get..

Now.. you said your ignition switch burned out.. and you had to replace a lot of fuses.. there is a fuse for auto park system... and it is a real pain to get to.. so get cellphone with flash on and record on the driver's side fuse box where your left foot would be.. the fuse you are looking for is all the way to the top... far left.. on the fuse box. Top.. . 10amp.. pull it and replace.. hope you are good at standing on head.. the fuse box has an arrow marked AP. And points to the fuse.. long needle nose pliers is a must..

Now my levelers are hwh and there is another inline fuse for that.. it goes to the yellow knob .. it is well hidden.. again trace that with cellphone with flash on and record all the wires and see if you can find it.. I had to remove the front gauge bezzle to get at it.. it is back close to firewall in between fuse box and yellow knob.. I think it's 10amp..

Next.. you said you replaced the ignition switch.. but did you closely inspect the harness.? . because it will melt and burn the connection inside.. so you got to look inside the connector.. and at each pin of harness..
Good luck and keep us posted
I don't have the yellow knob or any knob for my parking brake. It is all automatic off of the shift lever. No knob or pedal.
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