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Old 09-19-2022, 10:34 AM   #1
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No start at times

Hello! This is my first time posting on the forum, although I've searched and found answers to many of my questions!

Our 2005 Holiday Rambler Admiral on the Workhorse W22 chassis has me chasing some gremlins.

Most recently we got in to go on a weekend trip and it wouldn't start. Battery connections/ charge etc all looked good. Replaced the ignition switch as some have said it can go bad (even though its the W22 not the P30 chassis). It had started up after replacing the switch and on we went.

Stopped at a gas station, went to start up and nothing. Dash would light up but and a solenoid click on the starter. Figured it had to be the starter. Replaced it while at the gas station, jumped it with a buddies truck and started up. Drove down the street and had dinner, got in and started right up. Figured it was good to go.

Continued on our trip and the next day wouldn't start. Same symptoms. Replaced the starter and still nothing. Put the original starter back in and started up fine. Ugh. Figured had to be bad cell or two in the battery. Got a new battery for the chassis and started up perfect. Seems to be fixed!

Next weekend, starting and running fine. Headed home stop at a gas station and no start again! Dash lights, no click. Try it a dozen times, nothing. About to get out and start looking at connections and whatnot and try it once more and starts right up!

I'm at a loss as to what could be going on. What could be the issue?

Batteries are new.
Ignition switch is new.
Connections are clean and tight.
Ground is good.

I will say the battery boost switch doesn't seem to do anything, I'm assuming there's a solenoid that makes a connection from the house battery bank to the chassis battery somewhere that is bad, or maybe a control board for that. But that shouldn't affect the normal operations, just when I would want to use it to get out of a bind right?

Anyone else have a gremlin like this? Figured out the issue?
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:48 PM   #2
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Sounds like you have a ground bonding issue with the chassis battery. It could be where it bonds to the chassis or internal to the battery cable itself such as internal corrosion.

Remove and inspect/clean all the chassis battery chassis bonding points. Wiggle the cable ends around and check for corrosion or looseness.
Do the same for the large positive battery cable that runs from the battery to the starter (if there is more than 1 cable, check each of them).

Finally, check that the ECM and TCM cable connectors are all tight (2 rectangular plug-in connectors on each, engine side of modules, on top of radiator).
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:59 PM   #3
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During 33 years of 12 volt electrical at a Chrysler dealership erratic issues cost me most of my hair .

Electrical schematics from this site below may provide and answer .
Look for an ignition relay ( lack of the relay was the cause of the P chassis ignition switch failures ).

Workhorse Technical Info
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Old 09-19-2022, 01:07 PM   #4
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How old are the battery cables? Cut into the insulation an inch back from both ends and make sure you don't see any green/white colored corrosion.
As said above...
Replace the starter relay (or swap it with the AC relay while testing)
Make sure that the battery is grounded to both the engine and the frame. Make sure the engine and frame are grounded to each other.
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Old 09-19-2022, 01:57 PM   #5
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Thanks - I'll replace the battery cables as they are I'm sure factory and see if the issue remains.
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Old 09-19-2022, 03:26 PM   #6
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Thanks - I'll replace the battery cables as they are I'm sure factory and see if the issue remains.
A word about battery cables....
You will be better off taking in your old ones and having a real auto parts store sell or even make you a set of heavy duty ones that will be fairly expensive. Usually made out of very thick cable of many thin strands like welding cable. Real auto parts stores like Car Quest, certain NAPA's, etc are getting to be a rare thing.
The cables that you find at the big box stores these days will be cheap thin cables of thicker conductors and will only last a few years.
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Old 09-26-2022, 01:11 PM   #7
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I'm assuming you replaced the starter solenoid when you replaced the starter? I'd not you should. It's a common failure point on the 8.1.
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Old 09-26-2022, 05:44 PM   #8
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Well I replaced the battery cables, although they looked good. I also replaced the engine to frame ground strap along with adding another on the other side.

So far the no start gremlin seems to be gone.

Thanks for all the help! Will post back if it comes back again.
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Old 09-27-2022, 01:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete86 View Post
Well I replaced the battery cables, although they looked good. I also replaced the engine to frame ground strap along with adding another on the other side.

So far the no start gremlin seems to be gone.

Thanks for all the help! Will post back if it comes back again.
I would be curious to cut the insulation off of the old cables and look at the conductors. It may have been a connection at one of the cables ends as well.
You can never have too many grounds. Hopefully it stays fixed, thanks for the update!
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