p32 draglink, bellcrank arm removal

[dmeck]

I was told that my draglink is bad on my p32 chasis during stat inspection. I visually inspected it and there is play in the steering at the draglink and bellcrank arm joint. I tried to remove the draglink by removing the nuts on the end and puching it out but will not budge. What is the process for removal?
And should I replace the bell crank arm at the same time? Thanks for any help.

[dmeck]

I was told that my draglink is bad on my p32 chasis during stat inspection. I visually inspected it and there is play in the steering at the draglink and bellcrank arm joint. I tried to remove the draglink by removing the nuts on the end and puching it out but will not budge. What is the process for removal?
And should I replace the bell crank arm at the same time? Thanks for any help.

[Oemtech]

Get a pickle fork....

[dmeck]

A pickle fork? I have never heard of this, is this some kind of special tool for removing ball joints?

[dmeck]

I looked up pickle fork will get one to remove the drag link. Do you think the bell arm crank that it attaches to should be replaced at the same time? I can see the play on the end of the draglink that attaches to the bell arm crank and am wondering if this joint is typically worn as well. Thanks for your help.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by dmeck:
Do you think the bell arm crank that it attached to should be replaced at the same time? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>dmeck, Replacing your stock bell cranks for after market units that feature roller bearings has been reported to improve the overall handling and driveability of your P series. I highly recommend them. See our sponsor's webpage for Ultra Track Bell Cranks.

[dmeck]

I have heard the new after market bell cranks do inprove handling. I have only 18,000 miles on this and am starting with the things I can see that are worn. the bell crank arm is the boomerang shaped are that the draglink dirrectly attaches to. This is why I am asking if anyone has had experience with it going bad and if I should replace it at the same time as the drag link. Also does anyone know a good site to get a new drag link from?

Thanks

Thak

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by dmeck:
... does anyone know a good site to get a new drag link from? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>dmeck, Ask Mike Bronzini at Brazel's RV Performance. They are P Series experts. I'm sure they have that piece in stock or will know where to get one for you pretty quickly.

Monday - Friday 8:00 to 5:00 PDST 360-736-9494 ~ 877-786-1576

[Ultra RV Products]

dmeck,

We have everything you need in stock & you can call me at 877-786-1576 with any disassembly questions.

[rick_od]

dmeck,
I tried the pickel fork with no success. I removed the entire bell crank with the draglink attached. I turned the whole thing upsidedown between two pieces of wood and hit it with a 3# sledge hammer. Came apart right away. I then put on a new Henderson bell crank on the drivers side that I bought from Brazels. I also put on a new OEM bell crank on the pax side. It made a noticable difference in the reduction in steering play.

[Oemtech]

I have, on occasion, used a large hammer on one side of the knuckle and used a 3" sledge hammer to smack the other side.

[Tom N]

I just had a tie rod rubber boot replace. My truck shop used a fork attached to an air chisel. The tie rod readily came apart.

-Tom

[Oemtech]

OBTW - there are 2 different sizes of pickel forks.

[dieselclacker]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Tom N:
I just had a tie rod rubber boot replace. My truck shop used a fork attached to an air chisel. The tie rod readily came apart.



Hey, thats no fun replacing them that way. You don't get to use the four pounder using that method.

Just kidding Tom, I have a pickel fork for my air chisel also.

Dieselclacker