P32 Front End Work

[MrFixie]

Greetings,
I've had this 95 GB Pursuit 2500 since last year and I'm still learning. It kills me not to have a place that I can dig in on a daily basis. After a 7 week road trip last year I started to do/have some work done. Last month a new roof was installed. Ouch!!!

I bought the rig from a site member. He was very helpful with my questions even weeks after I bought it.
I'm finishing up some front suspension work that was previously started.

So Far:
SuperSteer Rear trac Bar
SuperSteer P3032 Bell Cranks (Left and Right)
SuperSteer Front Coil Springs
Moog Lower Ball Joints and Stab. Bar Bushings
FS rear air bag kit
Front and rear brakes Done(Rotors, Calipers, Pads along with another Master Brake Cylinder.

Planned:
SuperSteer Bell Crank Arm- a little pricey
Outer Tie rods and left inner
SuperSteer Draglink
Pl30 upper Control Arm shaft and Bushing Kits (R & L)
Somehow the lower BJ need replacing after 20K miles.

My main concern is that I miss something in the process.
Please, if there's suggestions or if I'm missing something, suggestions or cautions are welcome.
J

[Isaac-1]

I would add checking for play in the steering box

[Mark_K5LXP]

The PO of my P32 had Supersteer springs installed. My control arms both cracked. I ended up replacing a lot of expensive parts. The Supersteer springs went to the metal recycler.

From the Supersteer spring instructions:

SuperSteer does not warranty lower control arms that crack or fail.

I can't have any less regard for a company that markets a product like this.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

[RickNC]

I have a 1995 Winnebago Warrior 23 so I can relate. I didn’t have any real suspension wear when I bought mine at 27k miles in late 2016. Just underweight springs and the original shocks. I replaced the springs with Super Steer , Koni Shocks and also installed a steering stabilizer with return springs.

The most important part and what made the most improvement in drive ability was having the front end aligned to Super Steer specs. The problem when you take a p30 motorhome to an alignment shop is they most often will set the alignment to the P30 stepvan’s specs. The major difference in alignment spec is the front caster which needs to be about 5 degrees on the motorhome chassis.

The bell cranks you are pretty much stuck with SuperSteer at $350+ . I replaced mine with the original bushing type (ACDelco) at $60 each last year at 61xxx miles. Unfortunately AcDelco no longer supplies them #15728066. I once found a source for the bushings, but I have since lost the information on them.

Are you replacing worn parts or chasing drive ability issues?

[Ultra RV Products]

Sounds like you’ve taken care of most of the front end components that wear or are just inferior to the aftermarket offerings. For yourself and more so for others that aren’t as familiar with the front steering linkage on the P32, this diagram and list of parts is helpful: https://www.workhorseparts.com/Workh...nd-Rebuild-Kit

[RickNC]

Originally Posted by Mark_K5LXP

The PO of my P32 had Supersteer springs installed. My control arms both cracked. I ended up replacing a lot of expensive parts. The Supersteer springs went to the metal recycler.



From the Supersteer spring instructions:



SuperSteer does not warranty lower control arms that crack or fail.



I can't have any less regard for a company that markets a product like this.



Mark B.

Albuquerque, NM

I just noticed your reply, When I installed my super steer springs,I remember the included warning. While installing, I was not happy with how they seated into the control arm cups. As you know the spring seat is formed into the cup with rounded edges while the end of the spring is sharp which to my mind creates a point load on the spring seat. I spent some time with a grinder rounding and shaping the spring ends before I was satisfied with the fit.

[EyezOpen]

Originally Posted by RickNC

I just noticed your reply, When I installed my super steer springs,I remember the included warning. While installing, I was not happy with how they seated into the control arm cups. As you know the spring seat is formed into the cup with rounded edges while the end of the spring is sharp which to my mind creates a point load on the spring seat. I spent some time with a grinder rounding and shaping the spring ends before I was satisfied with the fit.

Now that takes tenacity...Big Hint here....Slobber grease in the seat cups literally..things go much smoother..amazingly smoother.

[Mark_K5LXP]

Totally agree about locating the springs in the pockets. Setting them in place is one thing, keeping them there while they're compressing is another so it might take a couple tries. One instruction I read somewhere suggested some anti seize which I used, so not much different than grease slobber. I also ground down the square edge of my new ones figuring I had to do something different. SuperSteer offers that the damage is due to "corrosion" in the pockets but my P32 has lived most of it's life here in NM, there's barely any rust anywhere underneath even in the pockets. I suspect the issue is coil binding, the spring compresses completely before it compresses the bump stop on the control arm so it's like there's a solid steel cylinder in there instead of a spring. Both of my control arms were cracked the same way, it's hardly a coincidence or random failure. I sourced some OEM rated springs, put in the in-coil air bags and the ride is noticeably better, even DW commented on it first trip out.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

[c62250000210]

If you do not have this installed you shpuld

W8002085 - Updated Ignition Switch Kit - Workhorse Parts

[MrFixie]

Originally Posted by Mark_K5LXP

The PO of my P32 had Supersteer springs installed. My control arms both cracked. I ended up replacing a lot of expensive parts. The Supersteer springs went to the metal recycler.

From the Supersteer spring instructions:

SuperSteer does not warranty lower control arms that crack or fail.

I can't have any less regard for a company that markets a product like this.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

I'll check the install, thanks for the info

[MrFixie]

RickNC

I wasn't sure how the drive should feel. I took it in for an alignment and knew some parts were worn. I just let them do their thing to see what they would say. I'm always checking and double checking my info and knowledge. I double checked the worn parts a few different ways, call shop, call manufacture, and asked the shop tons of questions. I did get confirmation that this is the guy for this chassis. This work along with the work done by the previous owner should make a solid difference in the drive. I got a suggestion to have them check the steering box. If they haven't I'd be worried. Wednesday is the day and I'll ask.
thanks for your comments

[MrFixie]

I'll check on how W8002085 - Updated Ignition Switch Kit -will effect things. I'm trying to wrap my head around everything. I'm no mechanic, and never have been into cars. This all changed about 5 years ago with an early Explorer buy. I was pulling things apart and realized I had no basic understanding of how an engine worked or anything else for that matter. I stopped for about 5 months and educated myself the best I could. Slapped it all back together and donated to a fellow Veterans Wounded Warriors Program. 6 months latter I bought a 1998 Explorer 5L V8 XLT. I rebuilt the front end top to bottom. I also did a full chassis corrosion control inspection and correction. Engine work, serious roof rust repair(4 holes 5in across). Peeled the interior out for cleaning. Lastly I did a full paint correction.
All this did very little to understand a house on wheels. Let me just say this, most that I've seen are poorly built and that's being nice. I'm in a jam session with this thing. Replacing all exterior and interior lights, everything.

Thanks for your feedback and time.