P32 Power Steering Pump

[Isaac-1]

Keep in mind just because they say it will not fit, does not mean it really will not fit, and making it fit may be as simple as swapping a pulley from the old unit to the new one.

[LETMGROW]

There shouldn't be anything magical or difficult in resealing a P S pump. Rebuild or seal kits should be available. Chances are the seal you need is the pump shaft seal. It takes a special P S pulley puller and installer to remove the pulley and to reinstall the pulley. Without the proper tools you can severely damage the pump internally. This is not a chore for a hammer to beat the pulley off or back on.There are cast iron plates and a cast iron housing inside the pump which will crack easily if care is not taken. If the pump shaft is scored it will need to be replaced. This is not a difficult job. If a shaft isn't available it can be spray welded and machined to the original size by a good machine shop.
Without removing the pump you might not know for sure what is leaking. Whoever has this coach should be removing the pump and making a decision on the best approach to repairing the leak or make a real effort to find a suitable replacement. I think whoever has this coach at their shop is either lazy, they don't know what they are doing or they just don't care. If they don't want to work on your coach find a mobile RV or truck service or a shop who will do the work in a timely fashion.
The only difference between a PS only and a PS / Hydro Boost pump is the pressure relief valve spring from my experience. The H. B. spring is stronger to boost output pressure. The existing spring can be interchanged with the spring in a P S only pump if necessary. The spring is behind the fitting the high pressure hose connects to. Further disassembly of the pump isn't required to change the springs. The spring is behind the pressure relief valve which can be pulled out of the housing with a magnet if it won't fall out.

[donr103]

Rebuilt kit.. for my p/s pump.. AutoZone p# 7918 upc. 2159799180.. now on my old and new pump p# stamped inside housing on the pump 7830247 ... I was able to use AZ . P# 7272, or 20-860 upc. 2517855102 0... on old housing when I pulled it.. was written 9645.. gm or Chevy p# 26042589..

WARNING.. VERY IMPORTANT .. last time I searched.. you cannot find pump housing.. so you must reuse it.. if there is any damage on housing have it tig. Wielded.. or repaired .. I COULD NOT FIND ONE... so tell shop to be very careful and get it in writing that you warned them..

If you are still confused.. you tube Chevy hydroboost pump.. or Chevy p/s pump..

Now if this still does not get you up and running.. not all is lost.. you are just going to .. have to.. get junk yard pump.. and try.. or have a custom one put in..$$$$$

The most stupid thing I did.. that I don't want you to do.. is if a line will not come off pump itself.. than follow the line.. and remove it there.. I assumed that I could find the lines easily.. but as it turns out.. I had to have one made.. at hydraulic shop.. it was cheap.. WARNING.. DO NOT CUT HIGH PRESSURE LINES...the cheap low pressure lines.. just cut.. and replace all low pressure lines/ hoses.. get highest quality..

Just about everything on these are old school.. I mean.. most of mechanics are long gone.. but just about everything is re build able .. if you can find someone or learn yourself..

Now is great time.. to add.. 1.. inline filter.. 2. The largest oil cooler you are comfortable with.. 3.. replace all low pressure lines and if you can find new hi pressure
hoses cheap.. I would do those.. I had to have mine made..

3 reasons that kill old pump.. 1.. heat.. there needs to be inline cooler.. 2.. metal trash from steering box.. there needs to be inline filter.. 3.. not changing oil every 5yrs no matter the miles..

The p/s pump is not just p/s pump.. it is a hydraulic pump that supplies pressure for brakes, steering and sometimes auto park system.. that is all big $$$$ parts.. and if you don't have fresh and filtered and cool oil .. then you are going to have more major problems..

Make sure.. all old oil is flushed out completely .. I MEAN COMPLETELY.. THERE IS OLD OIL IN BRAKES BOOSTER AND STEERING BOX.. AND MAYBE ON SOME MODLES AUTO PARK... and the p/s resovior is wiped out by hand using long cotton swabs.. there will be trash in that.. I think there was even a tiny magnet in mine.. then bleed carefully entire system.. I used hand vac to get new oil bled .. buy p/s oil buy the gallons.. at least 2 at least..
Good luck and keep us posted
Oh.. now is good time to flush the brake fluid.. that is in the brakes themselves.. different system and change diff oil..

[boldknight]

UPDATE!!!
Thank all of you for the input and suggestions. It really helped. The unit is sitting at LaMesa RV in Tucson They can’t do anything to the pump until they get a solenoid switch that activated power to the engine/Chassis. And that part has been in order for a month and no ETA for it. AND, the GM Pump GM Part number 26042589 is a fit and Cardone was wrong! Its available new or rebuild here at Merrill’s Auto here in Tucson. Also found a rebuilder who will rebuild it for $70. So now the wait for the Solenoid and then they will get the pump out. The service manager stated he wants to try new o-rings first to see if that works. But for anyone with a similar issue, that GM part number is a direct replacement! Many thanks to Donr103! 👍🏽

[LETMGROW]

The shop should be able to bypass the solenoid with a jumper wire so they can run it. A heavy jumper wire like a battery cable.
Can you put a picture of the solenoid on the forum?

[boldknight]

Well, LaMesa thought they had it fixed with an O-Ring. That was last fall I finally got the unit back. But now, in storage, I notice an oil puddle? I crawled under and the line going into the pump is leaking. I tried to tighten it, but that made it leak worse? so I started looking again and found a pump...Power Steering Pump (Workhorse) 26020778. Now I can't find the application for that part number? Figures, find a pump but can find if its the right one? I have check all cross references and no luck?

[yeloduster]

If you have an older motorhome, especially a Workhorse, parts suppliers often do not have a listing for a specific part. If you supply a part number they will try to see if that part is listed as fitting your older motorhome. They can't find a listing so they tell you it WON'T FIT. In reality what they have said is that they don't know if it WILL FIT.

Last summer the alternator on my 2003 W20 seized while traveling near Glenwood Springs, Colorado. I called the Autozone dealer in Glenwood Springs and was told they did not have a part that would fit. I then asked if they had an alternator for a 2003 Chevy 3500 with the 8.1L engine. They had several in different amperage ratings and levels of quality!

I pulled my dead alternator. Took it to Autozone, matched it up with one of the selections they had with the 145 AMP rating. Installed it in my motorhome and after 4 hours downtime I was on my way. It fit and worked perfectly.

The point: Autozone had several that fit but because their book didn't say it would they told me they had nothing that would fit. While in fact they had several but just didn't know it!

[donr103]

So you are still not up and running ? Why.. did they replace the pump? I would just bypass the solenoid and get that a try.. whom ever you paid to replace the pump should have made sure it don't leak.. there must be labor warranty.. take it back..
Good luck and keep us posted

[boldknight]

Its a 2004 R-Vision, Condor, 8.2 Votec, 35ft eith 20,200mi

[boldknight]

They couldn’t find a power steering pump so they said they tried new o-rings. Obviously, that isn’t working. I think I just found a Power Steering Pimp at Rock Auto. At the bottom of Workhorse steering pumps, Rick Auyo lists many cross reference part numbers and I found a match and just got the last unit for $125 including a $45 core charge. Now, hoping it fits, I need to find a Mobile RV Repair service to come and replace it. Yes, it’s leaking bad just sitting. I’ve been under the unit and the same fitting line is worse after the 0-Rings the put in. Hope they didn’t cross thread the fitting ? Updates as it happens. Would be nice to finally hit the road sometime

[Isaac-1]

I am dealing with similar issues now, just wondering if you ever found a solution to your problem?