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Old 09-06-2022, 02:01 PM   #1
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P32 wandering problem

I have a 2004 Winnebago Sightseer on the Workhorse P32 chassis. The steering has never been described as, "Like riding on rails". I am constantly trying to make this thing stay between the lines. I did find while inspecting the coach that the front springs had some type of air bag in them. both were flat and would not hold air. I talked to Brazels and they said there was a stronger spring fix to fix that. Being on a fixed income I would like to take care of the spring replacement and any other steering or suspension items that should be done. I would be very happy for guidance on how to replace, and what to replace or modify. Thanks Jeff
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Old 09-06-2022, 02:11 PM   #2
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The front steering bell cranks are a common wear item on these coaches, SuperSteer makes an improved roller bearing replacement design as the bushing style stock OEM bell cranks are known to wear out in under 30,000 miles.
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Old 09-06-2022, 03:01 PM   #3
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My opinion is to skip the "stronger" spring replacement. Read the story here:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/work...ml#post5734968

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Old 09-06-2022, 03:21 PM   #4
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First things first. If your coach came with the Air Lift air bags installed the front end alignment was no doubt originally set with the air bags inflated to the recommended pressure. With the air bags deflated you have changed the chassis ride height so the alignment is not correct. I installed new air bags in my coach for under $150 including labor but that was three years ago so prices have surely changed.
I also installed a "Safe-T-Plus" steering stabilizer on the front steering linkage which did help with wandering somewhat but the biggest improvement has been the "Tiger Trac" rear track bar. This took the side to sway of the back end down to a minimum especially when passing or being passed by other vehicles, especially large trucks or even larger motor homes.
When you get the air bags replaced and have the alignment checked and adjusted if necessary be sure they check for any loose or worn suspension or steering parts such as was suggested in a previous post and replace any if at all questionable.
Be sure to read the tire pressure recommendations and adjust the pressures as recommended.
Keep us informed of your progress.
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Old 09-07-2022, 05:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
The front steering bell cranks are a common wear item on these coaches, SuperSteer makes an improved roller bearing replacement design as the bushing style stock OEM bell cranks are known to wear out in under 30,000 miles.
The least expensive fix would be properly inflated air bags. I keep mine at 75#. Don’t overinflated them. Next would be Isaac’s suggestion “SupperSteer” ball cranks. Last on my list would be an alignment. With each suspension upgrade you may need an alignment. I’ve never seen any real appreciable difference other than drifting from to the left or right with an alignment. SuperSteer Rear Track Bar and a Roadmaster Front Spreader Bar made a huge difference in my ride. Good luck!��
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Old 09-07-2022, 10:27 AM   #6
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Once you get your ride height figured out, with air bags or new coil springs, also check your tire pressures. Overinflated tires can magnify handling problems.

Also, what I have found with my 2001 P32 chassis is that it is very susceptible to over steer by the driver. One solution giving on this forum years ago was to hold the steering wheel with your arm in a straight position. Elbow locked. Then when you make a steering adjustment you use your shoulder to push forward or pull back. Hope that makes sense.

Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.
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Old 09-08-2022, 07:55 AM   #7
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One item often overlooked. Chassis Grease!!! I like the red grease at Harbor Freight when they have it. Most stores are out of it. It provides “superior protection for general purpose use. The NLGI GC-LB lithium complex red grease is suitable for a wide range of automotive and industrial applications requiring extreme pressure protection, oxidation, water resistance and anti-rust properties.” Your Workhorse manual should have a schematic of all the grease points.
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Old 09-08-2022, 01:56 PM   #8
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If on a budget, you may now need to replace the passenger side bell crank. The driver's side is what takes most of the load and wears first. Have your lower ball joints inspected too.
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Old 09-08-2022, 02:01 PM   #9
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If on a budget, you may now need to replace the passenger side bell crank. The driver's side is what takes most of the load and wears first. Have your lower ball joints inspected too.

Agreed. But should suspect it was meant to read "may NOT need passenger's side". Easy to check for play in the bell cranks-- any vertical or angular movement means worn. They should only transmit force laterally and amount of movement on output side should equal amount of movement on input side. This is a 2 minute check with engine off. Just have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you follow steering linkage from steering box all the way to the right wheel.
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Old 09-08-2022, 02:23 PM   #10
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Airbag replacement made easy...


1. Mityvac
2. Long bread knife
3. 3 (3in hose clamps)
4. (3) long nose pliers (straight, 45 degree and 90 degree)


Stop fussing with zip ties.


https://www.irv2.com/forums/f65/what...ml#post6294631
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Old 09-08-2022, 02:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrflie View Post
... have found with my 2001 P32 chassis is that it is very susceptible to over steer by the driver.
Will agree with Fyrflie, the Chevy P3-chassis are very sensitive to steering input.
Always joke with my wife that our P3-chassis loves cornering on mountain roads.

Over the years an effort to make our RV track better in a straight line, and be less susceptible to passing trucks, we have done many things.

In regards to the front springs sagging, and ruptured front bags. This is very common on all P3-chassis. When the coach was built GM did not know what body the RV manufacture was going to build, or where heavy components, like generators would be installed.
In an effort to have their chassis to work for the most manufactures, GM chose to add minimum capacity springs, and add air bags inside the front coils to fine tune the carrying capacity by adding air to the bags.

When the coach was new, this system worked quite well, and returned a superior ride quality. However, as the vehicles age, gravity and weight cause the springs to sap. Would believe GM never thought the coach chassis would be on the road 30-40 years (1992-1982 respectively).

Some have claimed the higher capacity aftermarket springs have damaged the lower control arms. Honestly, I believe it has more to do with bottoming out. Be that because the old springs were sagging, or the wrong springs were installed the result is the same,...cracking lower control arms.

If you go with new springs, you will want to go with Supersteer. They will need you to have your coach weighed (preferably 4-corner weights), and Supersteer will get you a set matched to your coach.

When I ordered mine 3 years ago, LF 2,260 pounds & RF 2,480 pounds. Called Supersteer and requested their 4,400-4,900 set off rated springs. They asked me for my wiehgts, and after looking through their stock, they sent me coils that had been tested (in their machine) to carry 4,800 pounds. That is what I .call customer service - a perfectly matched set of springs.

To Aeronauts original post, the P3-chassis does tend to be a bit quick to respond to steering inputs. Hence they are almost sporty, on a twisty road (IMHO).

My first suggestion is check that all the tie rods are in good condition, that the steering box is adjusted correctly, and that you are within the correct ride height, per Factory or Off Road Toy Box's info.

Our coach had one bad and one marginal tie rod. Our ride height was well out of specification. Our drivers bell crank was shot, and the rear leaf spring bushings were worn out.
This maintenance made a huge difference. Oddly the alignment did not do much. We did add a rear track bar. It helped. We also add a bigger front sway bar, and added poly urethane bushings to the rear sway bar.
All of these changes and maintenance repairs has almost completely changed how our coach handles. With that said, she still responds quickly to steering input.

Enjoy the resources below.

Off Road Toy Box has a great (free)downloadable PDFon the suspension and alignment: http://www.offroadtoybox.com/RV/P-Ch...entProcess.pdf

Factory Service Manual: https://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/upl...sis-Manual.pdf

Chassis ID: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/p-se...ned-21035.html
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Old 10-22-2022, 09:50 AM   #12
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Thank you

Hi, everybody! Glad to be back. I changed internet providers, and lost my email address with them. Anyway I have not been able to log in for a few months and finally some good people with the admin were able to get me on track after multiple conversations. I appreciate all the great tips and advice I have received from you all. I'll be getting on this project as soon as I figure out which direction I'll be taking. Probably several. Thanks again, I'll post when I get going.
Jeff
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Old 10-22-2022, 10:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
The front steering bell cranks are a common wear item on these coaches, SuperSteer makes an improved roller bearing replacement design as the bushing style stock OEM bell cranks are known to wear out in under 30,000 miles.
How can I check the wear on my bell crank? And thanks for your advice.
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Old 10-22-2022, 10:27 AM   #14
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Very simple.


Takes two people. With engine off, have your helper turn the steering wheel back and forth through the "easy to turn" part-- like 30 degrees or so of steering wheel arc.


Meanwhile, you are under the coach looking to verify that all inputs from the steering box are tight to the next link in the steering linkage.


On the bell crank, that means that there is no vertical or axilar play. The input exits the output in the same plane, not off at an angle.


Yes, there are videos showing how/what to check.
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