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Kahunna · 03-19-2006, 05:13 AM

Hello All,

I have a 2002 Itasca on a P32 chassis. Near the end of our last trip I had two instances when I turned the key and got nothing. Each time I hit the Battery Boost button and she fired right up.

Even though the rest of the trip I had no problems I figured the four year old battery needed to be replaced.

Today, in my yard at home it won't start, even when I hit the battery boost.

I haven't replaced the battery yet but it does have a full charge as do the house batteries, the headlights work fine but when I turn the key all I get is a single click sound coming from the battery compartment.

Do I have a starter problem?
Could it be the start relay in the fuse box?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kahunna · 03-19-2006, 05:13 AM

Hello All,

I have a 2002 Itasca on a P32 chassis. Near the end of our last trip I had two instances when I turned the key and got nothing. Each time I hit the Battery Boost button and she fired right up.

Even though the rest of the trip I had no problems I figured the four year old battery needed to be replaced.

Today, in my yard at home it won't start, even when I hit the battery boost.

I haven't replaced the battery yet but it does have a full charge as do the house batteries, the headlights work fine but when I turn the key all I get is a single click sound coming from the battery compartment.

Do I have a starter problem?
Could it be the start relay in the fuse box?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TOMFEN · 03-19-2006, 08:22 AM

Kahunna
I had this happen twice on my 2002 Brave, both times it was the ignition switch was melted. First time it had just over 16,000 miles on the MH, second time happened at just under 35,000 miles. Workhorse has a mod kit for the ign sw, it was installed after the second meltdown, haven't had any problems since. According to Workhorse some mfg's wired too many things through the ign sw which is made of plastic, if it draws too much current through it the plastic gets soft and the contacts do not make a good connection. Sorry I don't have the part # for the mod kit but any workhorse dealer should be able to get it for you. You can probably check the sw yourself, it is located close to the bottom of the steering column and is actuated by a metal rod attached to the ign lock assy. Hope this helps.
Tom

Kahunna · 03-19-2006, 08:49 AM

Tomfen, thanks for the advice.

I just went out and looked at the switch you mentioned and it looks just fine. There are no signs of extreme heat or melting but then what do I know.

Maybe the switch melts internally???

Maybe there is a fuse that has blown???

As always I am open to any and all sugestions.

DriVer · 03-19-2006, 10:54 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kahunna:
Today, in my yard at home it won't start, even when I hit the battery boost. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I can only suggest a few things but in the end you need to have your engine evaluated by a Tech II instrument from a Workhorse service center.

<LI> There is a crank fuse it's 5 amps, check that.
<LI> There is a crank relay remove and tap it a few times and restore it in the socket and try to start.
<LI> There is a device called a TPS which also could present as a no power condition when you turn the key.
<LI>You could possibly have a bad solenoid on the starter.

To rule these issues out and more, have your MH evaluated at an authorized service center.

DonavonP · 03-19-2006, 01:14 PM

I had these symptoms on a vehicle one time. Everything seemed to be ok but it would only click.
A friend cleaned my battery posts and clamps, tightened it, and away it went. Some sort of film
had developed (corrosion) and would allow enough juice to light the headlights but not enough to kick in the starter.

Kahunna · 03-19-2006, 02:22 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Kahunna:
Today, in my yard at home it won't start, even when I hit the battery boost. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I can only suggest a few things but in the end you need to have your engine evaluated by a Tech II instrument from a Workhorse service center.

<LI> There is a crank fuse it's 5 amps, check that.
<LI> There is a crank relay remove and tap it a few times and restore it in the socket and try to start.
<LI> There is a device called a TPS which also could present as a no power condition when you turn the key.
<LI>You could possibly have a bad solenoid on the starter.

To rule these issues out and more, have your MH evaluated at an authorized service center. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Driver for the good advice.

I have already tapped the relay with no success, tomorrow I will check the crank fuse.

The start relay is exact same Tyco relay as the AC compressor relay and the Aux fan relay, I am considering switching them just to confirm or rule the relay out.

Even if I find it is the relay I want to get it to a workhorse tech, I just would prefer to drive it there.

Kahunna · 03-19-2006, 02:26 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DonavonP:
I had these symptoms on a vehicle one time. Everything seemed to be ok but it would only click.
A friend cleaned my battery posts and clamps, tightened it, and away it went. Some sort of film
had developed (corrosion) and would allow enough juice to light the headlights but not enough to kick in the starter. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks Donavan, thats a good idea.

I'll give it a try and let you know.

Thanks again.

TOMFEN · 03-19-2006, 02:37 PM

Kahunna
Would you please let us know what the final solution to the problem is.
Tom

Kahunna · 03-19-2006, 02:58 PM

Tomfen,

I hope to work my way through some of the sugested ideas in the next day or two.

I will let you know what I find.

rogueii · 03-19-2006, 04:01 PM

Kahuna--I would first start with the Battery conections. You might just have a bad ground.

Kahunna · 03-25-2006, 06:50 AM

OK so I've disconnected the battery and cleaned the connections and pulled and checked any and all fuses that might be even remotely relevent. I also checked all the connections around all three batteries and pulled the starter relay, tapped it and replaced and then swapped it with and identical relay and It still won't start.

I have also checked the sugested switches on the steering colum but everything looks good there.

I guess next I will look for the starter and see if tapping on it will work.

I appreciate everybody's suggestions and help on this but I think I see yet another trip on the back of a tow truck in my future.

Gary RVRoamer · 03-25-2006, 07:02 AM

Are you still hearing a clcik form the starter solenoid? If so, you should be looking at the connections to the solenoid and the starter itself. If those are OK, then its probably the solenoid itself or at worst the starter motor. The "click" indicates power is getting to the solenoid but either no power is traveling from there to the starter motor OR the starter is getting power and simply won't budge. You can pull the starter and take to an auto parts store for a test - usually free.

"007" · 03-25-2006, 07:06 AM

And you have checked the heavy ground cable from engine block to frame as "rogueii" suggested. Than check the bolts for starter to engine block maybe loose therefore poor ground connection. If still not working take jumper cable to good gnd on frame and hold or clip on frame of starter, than try to start. Use meter to battery post of stater to frame ground have someone try to start see if 12+ volts to starter on start attempt.

"007"

If you would post in your signature profile block your chassis and coach info it would help and you do not have to post it all the time because info will follow your posts. Thank you