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10-23-2016, 02:35 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 835
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Replaced coach & chassis batteries: MH will not start
I replaced both coach batteries and the chassis / engine battery. 12v system seems to be fine but I now have a problem starting the engine. The dash lights up when I turn the ignition key but within a couple of seconds, all is dead. No dash lights, starter doesn't turn over, no clicks, just screams from me.
I checked all the fuses under the hood, nothing blown. Checked the fuses in the gauge compartment, nothing blown. Checked the resettable fuses in the compartment near the propane tank, nothing blown. If it sits for a period of time (or maybe I'm reseting something and not realizing it) I can cycle the ignition but then repeats the above. The first two times I tried the motor did crank oh-so briefly, then all was dead. The third time I tried, I just waited to see if the dash went dead, hoping that might tell someone that it isn't starter-load related.
Any ideas what I can look at? I verified every electrical connection for every battery that it conforms to the 'before pictures', and they do. And of course, the engine battery only has two cables.
Thank-you in advance for any suggestions. -RT
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Ricardo Tegarini
2005 Itasca Sunova
Workhorse Chassis W20
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10-23-2016, 02:44 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: N. E. Ohio & Lady Lake Fl.
Posts: 1,120
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Double check all connections. Not only for continuity, but that something isn't cross wired.
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Ron WD8CBT
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left
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10-23-2016, 03:07 PM
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#3
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Community Administrator
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP" & Lehigh Acres Florida
Posts: 21,822
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Sounds to me like you have a chassis battery in a state of being undercharged.
Did you replace this with a new battery? Have you tried charging the chassis battery? If it's a new battery you put in was the replaced battery starting it? If it did have you tried putting it back in?
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John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L Workhorse W24
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10-23-2016, 03:16 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRR
Sounds to me like you have a chassis battery in a state of being undercharged.
Did you replace this with a new battery? Have you tried charging the chassis battery? If it's a new battery you put in was the replaced battery starting it? If it did have you tried putting it back in?
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All batteries are brand-new, and verified voltage before and after installation. I can't put the old batteries back in, as they had to be turned-in upon buying the replacement batteries.
There has to be a reason why they dash is going dead within a few seconds and the engine turning over for only a second and then everything is dead like a switch has been turned off, or a relay cycling. -RT
__________________
Ricardo Tegarini
2005 Itasca Sunova
Workhorse Chassis W20
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10-23-2016, 03:20 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powderman
Double check all connections. Not only for continuity, but that something isn't cross wired.
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I agree. Pay careful attention to the ground cable.
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Larry and Prissy Sharp
2006 Allegro Bay 37DB
2012 Toyota Yaris
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10-23-2016, 03:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarrytheBear
I agree. Pay careful attention to the ground cable.
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I took before and after pictures: everything is 100% wired exactly as before. And the problem is only on the engine / chassis side, and there are only two cables. The 'positive' lead is of the length that it can't possible be hooked up to the 'far' side of the proper connection; it simply can't reach. Posting this picture, the bottom battery is the engine / chassis battery. Hard to see but the 'negative' black cable is on the bottom-right, 'positive' red cable is on the bottom-left.
I verified voltage at the battery posts and at the wiring bolt (Four connected wires) on the lower-third of compartment, right-hand side. That would be the power AFTER the by-pass switch. -RT
__________________
Ricardo Tegarini
2005 Itasca Sunova
Workhorse Chassis W20
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10-23-2016, 03:27 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Seeing the USA
Posts: 2,646
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Remove and clean your ground cable at the frame. Then clean all other connections. Good luck!
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Neal and Deb + Mya and Gizmo, the pup's
2003 Winnebago Sightseer 30B
May the roads rise up to meet you, May the winds be always at your back...
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10-23-2016, 03:28 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Nor'easters Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Freedom, NH
Posts: 1,520
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I agree with JohnRR. It sounds like an under charged chassis battery. Your converter won't charge it unless you have a Trikl Start or some other type of battery charger. If you have a battery boost switch, press it for several seconds and see if it will start.
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Fran, Mary & Zoey (silver Cocker)
2017 Thor Axis 25.5 "RUV", Ford E-450, V10, 6 speed
2016 Chevy Sonic LTZ Auto Hatchback 4-down
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10-23-2016, 03:32 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,111
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Will the generator start? You could use jumper cables to start the engine once started go for a drive to charge the chassis battery.
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Mark
1999 Bounder 32H Ford V10, 2012 Ford Focus, Pretty DW, 1 cat. Retired USAF
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10-23-2016, 03:36 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,317
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Are they factory ends or quick, temporary type with two little bolts in them ?
They are troublsome. Corrosion gets under the little plate and into the cable.
Are they side terminals ? They need to be shinny clean and tight.
Are they top post type, that you didn't spread open, and clean, so that they go all the way on the post. That way the pinch bolt can pinch them tight ?
OK, here is a test.
If it cranks, even a half turn, quickly feel the cable connections for a warmer one. That one needs attention.
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10-23-2016, 03:43 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrt_1111
Will the generator start? You could use jumper cables to start the engine once started go for a drive to charge the chassis battery.
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Generator won't start; flashing error codes (and it is cranking over and starting, but only runs for a second and then shuts down.) but all other 12v power to the coach is working correctly. I can turn on the furnace, refrigerator, lights, etc.
I'm absolutely certain that the brand-new battery is not under-charged, since the meter shows 12+ volts before and after installation. I'm familiar with low-battery start-ups where the motor doesn't want to crank over; that's not what's happening here. Something is taking out a relay or something.
Thanks for all the suggestions from everyone. Something is bound to hit the right note. -RT
__________________
Ricardo Tegarini
2005 Itasca Sunova
Workhorse Chassis W20
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10-23-2016, 03:57 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTegarini
Generator won't start; flashing error codes (and it is cranking over and starting, but only runs for a second and then shuts down.) but all other 12v power to the coach is working correctly. I can turn on the furnace, refrigerator, lights, etc.
I'm absolutely certain that the brand-new battery is not under-charged, since the meter shows 12+ volts before and after installation. I'm familiar with low-battery start-ups where the motor doesn't want to crank over; that's not what's happening here. Something is taking out a relay or something.
Thanks for all the suggestions from everyone. Something is bound to hit the right note. -RT
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If you can take jumper cables and connect it to the neg side of the battery post (not the cable) and connect the other side to a good ground. Try to start the engine. This work for me in a rest area in a far away place.
__________________
Mark
1999 Bounder 32H Ford V10, 2012 Ford Focus, Pretty DW, 1 cat. Retired USAF
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10-23-2016, 04:00 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 1,499
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Don't get stuck on the 12V meter reading. 12V doesn't mean there is sufficient amperage / current available from/within the battery to start the engine.
Get/borrow a battery charger and charge the 'new' battery - most battery chargers have an amp meter. If the battery is weak, the initial charge will show a high amp reading - if the battery is good the amp reading on the charger will be 2 amps or less.
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Tom and Amy from Northern Virginia.
2000 Allegro 454/Workhorse P32/TST/Crossfire
Life is a DIY project, so own less and live more
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10-23-2016, 04:10 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,111
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Very true 12 volt volt reading by itself can be very misleading.
Did the generator do this before or did it just start? If you have a booster switch did you try it?
__________________
Mark
1999 Bounder 32H Ford V10, 2012 Ford Focus, Pretty DW, 1 cat. Retired USAF
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