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Old 10-23-2016, 02:35 PM   #1
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Replaced coach & chassis batteries: MH will not start

I replaced both coach batteries and the chassis / engine battery. 12v system seems to be fine but I now have a problem starting the engine. The dash lights up when I turn the ignition key but within a couple of seconds, all is dead. No dash lights, starter doesn't turn over, no clicks, just screams from me.

I checked all the fuses under the hood, nothing blown. Checked the fuses in the gauge compartment, nothing blown. Checked the resettable fuses in the compartment near the propane tank, nothing blown. If it sits for a period of time (or maybe I'm reseting something and not realizing it) I can cycle the ignition but then repeats the above. The first two times I tried the motor did crank oh-so briefly, then all was dead. The third time I tried, I just waited to see if the dash went dead, hoping that might tell someone that it isn't starter-load related.

Any ideas what I can look at? I verified every electrical connection for every battery that it conforms to the 'before pictures', and they do. And of course, the engine battery only has two cables.

Thank-you in advance for any suggestions. -RT
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Old 10-23-2016, 02:44 PM   #2
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Double check all connections. Not only for continuity, but that something isn't cross wired.
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:07 PM   #3
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Sounds to me like you have a chassis battery in a state of being undercharged.
Did you replace this with a new battery? Have you tried charging the chassis battery? If it's a new battery you put in was the replaced battery starting it? If it did have you tried putting it back in?
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:16 PM   #4
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Sounds to me like you have a chassis battery in a state of being undercharged.
Did you replace this with a new battery? Have you tried charging the chassis battery? If it's a new battery you put in was the replaced battery starting it? If it did have you tried putting it back in?
All batteries are brand-new, and verified voltage before and after installation. I can't put the old batteries back in, as they had to be turned-in upon buying the replacement batteries.

There has to be a reason why they dash is going dead within a few seconds and the engine turning over for only a second and then everything is dead like a switch has been turned off, or a relay cycling. -RT
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:20 PM   #5
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Double check all connections. Not only for continuity, but that something isn't cross wired.
I agree. Pay careful attention to the ground cable.
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:25 PM   #6
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I agree. Pay careful attention to the ground cable.
I took before and after pictures: everything is 100% wired exactly as before. And the problem is only on the engine / chassis side, and there are only two cables. The 'positive' lead is of the length that it can't possible be hooked up to the 'far' side of the proper connection; it simply can't reach. Posting this picture, the bottom battery is the engine / chassis battery. Hard to see but the 'negative' black cable is on the bottom-right, 'positive' red cable is on the bottom-left.

I verified voltage at the battery posts and at the wiring bolt (Four connected wires) on the lower-third of compartment, right-hand side. That would be the power AFTER the by-pass switch. -RT
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:27 PM   #7
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Remove and clean your ground cable at the frame. Then clean all other connections. Good luck!
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:28 PM   #8
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I agree with JohnRR. It sounds like an under charged chassis battery. Your converter won't charge it unless you have a Trikl Start or some other type of battery charger. If you have a battery boost switch, press it for several seconds and see if it will start.
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:32 PM   #9
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Will the generator start? You could use jumper cables to start the engine once started go for a drive to charge the chassis battery.
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:36 PM   #10
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Are they factory ends or quick, temporary type with two little bolts in them ?

They are troublsome. Corrosion gets under the little plate and into the cable.

Are they side terminals ? They need to be shinny clean and tight.

Are they top post type, that you didn't spread open, and clean, so that they go all the way on the post. That way the pinch bolt can pinch them tight ?

OK, here is a test.

If it cranks, even a half turn, quickly feel the cable connections for a warmer one. That one needs attention.
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:43 PM   #11
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Will the generator start? You could use jumper cables to start the engine once started go for a drive to charge the chassis battery.
Generator won't start; flashing error codes (and it is cranking over and starting, but only runs for a second and then shuts down.) but all other 12v power to the coach is working correctly. I can turn on the furnace, refrigerator, lights, etc.

I'm absolutely certain that the brand-new battery is not under-charged, since the meter shows 12+ volts before and after installation. I'm familiar with low-battery start-ups where the motor doesn't want to crank over; that's not what's happening here. Something is taking out a relay or something.

Thanks for all the suggestions from everyone. Something is bound to hit the right note. -RT
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Old 10-23-2016, 03:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Generator won't start; flashing error codes (and it is cranking over and starting, but only runs for a second and then shuts down.) but all other 12v power to the coach is working correctly. I can turn on the furnace, refrigerator, lights, etc.

I'm absolutely certain that the brand-new battery is not under-charged, since the meter shows 12+ volts before and after installation. I'm familiar with low-battery start-ups where the motor doesn't want to crank over; that's not what's happening here. Something is taking out a relay or something.

Thanks for all the suggestions from everyone. Something is bound to hit the right note. -RT
If you can take jumper cables and connect it to the neg side of the battery post (not the cable) and connect the other side to a good ground. Try to start the engine. This work for me in a rest area in a far away place.
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:00 PM   #13
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Don't get stuck on the 12V meter reading. 12V doesn't mean there is sufficient amperage / current available from/within the battery to start the engine.
Get/borrow a battery charger and charge the 'new' battery - most battery chargers have an amp meter. If the battery is weak, the initial charge will show a high amp reading - if the battery is good the amp reading on the charger will be 2 amps or less.
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Old 10-23-2016, 04:10 PM   #14
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Very true 12 volt volt reading by itself can be very misleading.


Did the generator do this before or did it just start? If you have a booster switch did you try it?
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