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Old 09-27-2021, 12:33 PM   #1
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Sluggish Engine / Acceleration

On my return trip from Alabama to Michigan, my RV became very sluggish at low speeds and idle. At traffic lights, it almost felt like it was going to stall, but didn't. I had a difficult time on entrance ramps to the expressway. It didn't perform too badly on the expressway. Any ideas where to start problem-solving? It has always run so well. This is the first engine problem I've had in the 6 years I've owned it. The engine is a Chevy Workhorse W-22 on a 2004 Newmar Mountain air gasser. Thank you.
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Old 09-27-2021, 01:57 PM   #2
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sounds like it could be a boost issue - leak in the system or a dying turbo. Do you have a way to observe boost pressure while driving?
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Old 09-27-2021, 01:59 PM   #3
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sounds like it could be a boost issue - leak in the system or a dying turbo. Do you have a way to observe boost pressure while driving?
Gasser....... I would start with the fuel filter .
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Old 09-27-2021, 02:02 PM   #4
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Plugged cat is the only thing I can think of on a gasser that makes for a smooth loss of power. On a car I would drill a 3/8 hole in the exhaust pipe in front of the cat. Could always tell the difference in power. A big motor would take 4 holes or so. Just mig them up afterwards.
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Old 09-27-2021, 02:04 PM   #5
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Your MAF is dirty. Do you use a K&N air filter?
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Old 09-27-2021, 02:09 PM   #6
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Gasser....... I would start with the fuel filter .
Oh - assumed diesel and didn't finish reading to the workhorse part...
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Old 09-27-2021, 02:49 PM   #7
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Check your accelerator power plug, it it comes loose it can cause a slow acceleration.
Mine came loose on my new Horizon, they forgot to lock it.
They all have a lock
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Old 09-27-2021, 09:12 PM   #8
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Clean maf.. and if that does not work.. borrow a scanner.. many auto parts store do loan for free.. Bet you need to change both o2 sensors in front of cats.. if they have not been changed.. use air tool and expect to re chase threads.. if they have.. make sure you use antiseeze.. good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you.. oh if you do o2 sensors.. wear leather gloves... you will need them.. and always eye protection.. rust just flies ..
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Old 09-28-2021, 10:42 AM   #9
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Start with the easy stuff first.

Engine scan. Does it reveal anything?

Check your air filter. Mine got saturated with water and performed similar to what you have going on.

Clean your MAF. Easy to do while the air cleaner is out.

Fuel filter

Check plugs and wires.

Let us know what you find.
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Old 10-16-2021, 11:30 AM   #10
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Replaced the Air Filter and cleaned MAF sensor and no change. I tried to rev the engine and at around 3000 rpms the engine sort of levels off and shuts itself down. I'm wondering if the catalytic converters could be clogged. I had mine stolen in the spring and replaced early summer.
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Old 10-16-2021, 11:31 AM   #11
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I'll try to post a video of what it does this afternoon.
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Old 10-16-2021, 11:36 AM   #12
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Replaced the Air Filter and cleaned MAF sensor and no change. I tried to rev the engine and at around 3000 rpms the engine sort of levels off and shuts itself down. I'm wondering if the catalytic converters could be clogged. I had mine stolen in the spring and replaced early summer.
The engine is governed (limited) to not more than 3,000 RPMS when in "P" and "N". Unless you've got some very serious emission problems, it isn't likely that your "new" cats are already "plugged".
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Old 10-16-2021, 03:17 PM   #13
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If you think it's cats.. don't go drilling holes in exhaust to check.. just take out o2 sensors and see if that does it.. no drilling.. have you tested fuel pressure.. it takes all 5mins and no hand tools.. auto parts store will lend you fuel pressure gauge for free.. while there get a repair book for same eng and trans same yr as chassis for Chevy c2500.. it will give you great trouble shooting guide and engine specs.. tell you fuel pressure specs.. good luck and keep us posted.. you may have to leave hatch open to test f/p while driving under load.. easy..
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Old 10-16-2021, 03:25 PM   #14
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The engine is governed (limited) to not more than 3,000 RPMS when in "P" and "N". Unless you've got some very serious emission problems, it isn't likely that your "new" cats are already "plugged".
Makes sense. But when I drive it, the engine sounds like it is struggling to get power still, almost a deep sound. Almost feels like it is shaking or bouncing, trying to get power. I may take it in and see what a professional thinks.
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