Community Forums

Dave Killey · 05-11-2009, 05:36 AM

My problem is almost like PapaD's except I cannot start or the engine with the battery boost feature. The lights all go on the dash, but no clicking sound with either chassis or coach battery. This happened to me about a month ago and after 3 hours it just fixed itself. This time, I have waited overnight and still the same results.
I am going to get my woollies on and start checking all the stuff as suggested, but this seems to be slightly different since mine will not start using the coach batteries.
Any help would be appreciated.

sknight · 05-11-2009, 06:46 AM

Have a helper in the drivers seat, you crawl under the coach with a hammer. Have them hold the key over and you give the starter a few medium hits. If it turns over then you need a starter. There's a bad spot in the rotating assembly or in the solenoid. Jarring it usually makes the connection again, until the starter stops on the bad spot.

BTW a medium hit is a little less than what it takes to drive a framing nail. Don't want you knocking the whole thing off.

That doesn't work then try raking the shifter through the range, then back to neutral.

This sounds mike more of a connection issue within the starting system rather than a cable issue.

Report back, and we'll see what else the old mechanic can come up with.

DriVer · 05-11-2009, 07:09 AM

I experienced a similar event which was remedied by the replacement of the starter.

If the battery is known to be in excellent shape and when the key is toggled to the start position and nothing happens - the likely suspect is the solenoid. I have spent time checking fuses and rotating relays however in the end the starter replacement was the only solution that consistently gives me 100% starts.

Another remedy would be to get a piece of 12 gauge wire with alligator clips on both ends and go from the battery post to the starter motor post and cause a bump in the starter's position. This will usually bring the solenoid contact ring around to a viable side that will allow the starter to function normally. In my case we turned the key on and the vehicle started. (Instead of making the connection internally in the solenoid what you are doing is making the same connection externally)

Once this process was accomplished, I was able to restart the vehicle a number of times until the solenoid again came to a stop on the bad side of the contacts.

I'm not so much in favor of whacking your starter with a hammer however the process has been known to work.

Dave Killey · 05-11-2009, 07:13 AM

It appears as thought the wires to the starter are corroded and may need replacing. Thanks for your help, we are started now and heading to the repair shop.
All the best

wa8yxm · 05-11-2009, 11:00 AM

Usually about once a year I go to start my gasser and ... NO JOY

I hit AUX-START and home we go (or wherever we are going) when Next I park for a couple of days I crawl under the rig (That's how you access the chassis battery) sit up (NOTE: I"m 6'3" by 330 pounds and I'm not kidding about sitting up under the coach, it's got that kind of ground clearance) and pull a lead off the chassis battery

Hook up the Chicago Tools zero to five hundred amp load tester from Harbor Frieight, dial in around 350 amps (The proper number for the battery I have) and fifteen seconds later when it goes BEEP I read the needle, bright green zone.

Unhook the other cable, clean and re-attach, clean and rettach the 1st cable, good till next year

IT"s a maintenance free battery..... .... SURE IT IS

The house batteries I do every spring no matter if they need it or not, they are flooded wet cells. Guess I should do 'em both

Jeff H · 05-11-2009, 09:51 PM

Could be the ignition switch. Starts working again cooled down. Will eventually finish melting.

wa8yxm · 05-12-2009, 11:24 AM

This is true too... One thing I need to add. in the interest of humor of course

Your subject says: "will not turn over"

It's not SUPPOSED to turn over. The wheels are supposed to stay on the BOTTOM all the time

Max Hubrich · 05-12-2009, 04:36 PM

Sounds like the solenoid on the starter needs replacing. I've seen this several times recently on the Chev 8.1 Vortac.

I now carry a spare and the tools needed to replace one.

skipwil · 05-12-2009, 06:42 PM

I used to be an auto electrical starter & alternator repairman. I have started lots of vehicles(in the good old days) with a good sized hammer.In those days the field coils inside the starter were wrapped copper windings. The newer starters are made with ceramic magnets and when struck with a solid blow the magnets will shatter;then a new starter must be installed.
good luck.

DriVer · 05-12-2009, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipwil

The newer starters are made with ceramic magnets and when struck with a solid blow the magnets will shatter;then a new starter must be installed.

skipwil, Thank you for sharing that with us .....

sknight · 05-14-2009, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipwil

I used to be an auto electrical starter & alternator repairman. I have started lots of vehicles(in the good old days) with a good sized hammer.In those days the field coils inside the starter were wrapped copper windings. The newer starters are made with ceramic magnets and when struck with a solid blow the magnets will shatter;then a new starter must be installed.
good luck.

How hard are you hitting it?

We're not trying to knock it off, just jar the brushes a bit.

Either way, if you need a starter it's usually (Please read the USUALLY part.) cheaper to replace the starter. Most shops today don't know what replacing a solenoid, brushes, or cleaning an armature actually is.