Starting problem - 2001 Itasca Sunrise SE 29A, Workhorse chassis

[joanbill]

Just noticed you did not mention chassis model but others seem to say it is a P32. Mine is a W22 so maybe different solution to problem.

[JohnRR]

Thank you for the update

Originally Posted by roadmaster49

It was burned out and UGLY.

I got the starter relay/switch at a local NAPA shop, but had to go 35 miles to the regional warehouse to get the pigtail connector. Apparently there are only 2 of the connectors in the entire metro Atlanta area and they were at that warehouse. Even with the ACDelco and BWD part #s, most places didn't know what it was and those that did would have to special order it.

In case anyone needs them in the future, the interchange part numbers for this particular connector are...

GM: 12102602
Echelin: AC610
AC Delco: PT289
BWD: PT6110

The starter relay/switch Echelin # is KS6622 as stated on the walkthrough at Oemy's Web Site - DIY Projects

I hope the switch is the root of the problem and not a symptom. Will have to find out tomorrow though. Going to the races @ Dixie Speedway in a bit and don't have time to install the new one. Update y'all then. In the meantime enjoy the image of burned up electrical components...

[roadmaster49]

Originally Posted by joanbill

Question: Where is the pigtail connector that was burned up? Is it near the Fuse/Relay box on drivers side behind hood? Was the relay you replaced the square grey one on the fuse/relay panel? Thanks.

The burned out starter switch and the connector are on the front side of the steering column (away from the driver). On the P32 the switch was slightly below the level of the steering column yoke which holds the column in place.

[roadmaster49]

Well I have a new starter switch and replaced the connector, but I'm disappointed to say that it appears that the damage there was just a symptom. I'm right back where I began (isn't that a song?).

Thanks for the suggestions and advice, but it looks like she's going to the shop anyway. I'll post an update when I get the details of the root issue.

[joanbill]

Originally Posted by roadmaster49

Well I have a new starter switch and replaced the connector, but I'm disappointed to say that it appears that the damage there was just a symptom. I'm right back where I began (isn't that a song?).

Thanks for the suggestions and advice, but it looks like she's going to the shop anyway. I'll post an update when I get the details of the root issue.

We are truly almost in the same boat. I had Roadside Assistance scheduled for tomorrow but gave it one last try late today because of impending bad weather. Of course, it STARTED just like a nice summers day. Took it to storage and it started 3 more times in the shed. Now I am left wondering when it will happen again. Cancelled the RA but feel I will need them again soon.

[captjsr]

Originally Posted by roadmaster49

Hello. I'm a newbie to the RV world (less than a year). Got a great deal on our RV, but given the age and lack of maintenance by the prior owners, it did/does need work (it had the original, very dry, tires on it for crying out loud...I was surprised I made it home and then to the tire shop without losing one or more).

I just had the engine and brakes worked on and it is running and stopping beautifully now. Unfortunately when we stopped in a parking lot about a mile from the house to disconnect our towed, the RV wouldn't start back up. It had started between 4-6 times before that on that day, however. It's not still in the parking lot. We did get her home the next morning, but the problem persist.

When I put the key in and turn it, the accessory lights come on. When I continue to the ignition position, some of them go out as expected, but the starter never gets triggered. I am rewarded with nothing but silence.

- The chassis battery is new and charged (actually the house batteries are too).
- I took the starter off and tool it down to have it tested. The parts guy ran it through 5-7 test cycles and it checked out fine.
- There are two solenoids behind the hood on the driver's side. I replaced the one not labeled as being for the house/coach (still have the old one as a spare since the swap didn't help).
- I jumped/shorted the starter with a screwdriver and the engine turned over fine and I drove it the last mile home so the connection between the battery and starter are good.

The fact that I could start it by jumping the poles on the starter indicates to me at least that the problem then lies somewhere between the key and the starter. Are there any easy ways to narrow it down without swapping out one part after another when the only diagnostic tools I have are my brain (which doesn't help much when it comes vehicle electricity) and a multimeter?

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,
Mark

My RV is in the shop for the same condition and so far (2 days) haven't fixed it yet. Will suggest this to them.

[captjsr]

Just got an update from the garage and they still believe it's the starter. I installed a lifetime warranty NAPA starter so they exchanged it. I haven't heard back from the garage with the outcome.

Will post it when I get it back.

[roadmaster49]

I did finally take it back to the shop. Electrical was a pretty quick fix. There was a grounding problem. Not sure if I missed something when I replaced the starter switch, or if the grounding issue contributed to the original switch getting burned out to begin with.

I unfortunately decided to also have some body work done... Took FOREVER for the fender to come in. Luckily we got her back just in time for a little outing we had planned.

[captjsr]

They replaced the starter under warranty and a grounding strap. I also installed a trickle charger for the start battery to keep it fully charge when the weeks I don't use it. Haven't had anymore problems lately.

[captjsr]

Problems again. Grounding strap to frame wasn't cleaned good enough. I connected a long 2 gauge ground wire from battery to a new area on the frame, which I cleaned to bare metal and connected the two wires. Starts great now.