Community Forums

roadmaster49 · 04-04-2014, 09:33 AM

Hello. I'm a newbie to the RV world (less than a year). Got a great deal on our RV, but given the age and lack of maintenance by the prior owners, it did/does need work (it had the original, very dry, tires on it for crying out loud...I was surprised I made it home and then to the tire shop without losing one or more).

I just had the engine and brakes worked on and it is running and stopping beautifully now. Unfortunately when we stopped in a parking lot about a mile from the house to disconnect our towed, the RV wouldn't start back up. It had started between 4-6 times before that on that day, however. It's not still in the parking lot. We did get her home the next morning, but the problem persist.

When I put the key in and turn it, the accessory lights come on. When I continue to the ignition position, some of them go out as expected, but the starter never gets triggered. I am rewarded with nothing but silence.

- The chassis battery is new and charged (actually the house batteries are too).
- I took the starter off and tool it down to have it tested. The parts guy ran it through 5-7 test cycles and it checked out fine.
- There are two solenoids behind the hood on the driver's side. I replaced the one not labeled as being for the house/coach (still have the old one as a spare since the swap didn't help).
- I jumped/shorted the starter with a screwdriver and the engine turned over fine and I drove it the last mile home so the connection between the battery and starter are good.

The fact that I could start it by jumping the poles on the starter indicates to me at least that the problem then lies somewhere between the key and the starter. Are there any easy ways to narrow it down without swapping out one part after another when the only diagnostic tools I have are my brain (which doesn't help much when it comes vehicle electricity) and a multimeter?

Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,
Mark

bonfield · 04-04-2014, 10:04 AM

It is more than likely the electrical portion of the ignition switch which is a common problem.Not a bad idea to replace it even if that is not the problem.

roadmaster49 · 04-04-2014, 11:37 AM

My wife and I had thought of the ignition switch, and I had actually started to pull the steering wheel off to get to it, but backed out of it because I'm hoping there might be a way to narrow the possibilities without simply swapping parts out, especially parts that require other things to be torn apart to get to. It may come to that no matter what depending on what the problem actually is, just hoping to be more certain about it before ripping into it. I've got two weeks before I take it to the shop. If I can take care of it myself, I can happily cancel that trip.

edgray · 04-04-2014, 12:14 PM

Roadmaster49: Welcome to iRV2, where we have a Workhorse chassis forum. I think you'll get LOTS of answers there. You can use the "triangle" under your name to request the mods move your thread there.

"007" · 04-04-2014, 02:52 PM

Welcome to irv2.
Check this post may reference to your problem, let us know how you make out.

**JohnRR** · 04-04-2014, 03:48 PM

You'll like the Workhorse Forum.

roadmaster49 · 04-04-2014, 06:47 PM

Forgot about a few things... We checked all the fuses and swapped around all three relays in the fuse box. Still no love returned to us by our RV for getting her away from neglectful owners and starting to get her back in shape.

Thanks for the link. I'll check it out.

scenic route · 04-06-2014, 03:11 PM

We had this happen out West. Our problem was the starter ground. There's a gang ground stud near the starter mounted on the right frame rail. Might try loosing the nut and wiggling the wires, re-tighten and try starting again. It fix our problem and after we got home, I cleaned all ground connectors there and reassembled...never another problem.

max49 · 04-08-2014, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadmaster49

My wife and I had thought of the ignition switch, and I had actually started to pull the steering wheel off to get to it, but backed out of it because I'm hoping there might be a way to narrow the possibilities without simply swapping parts out, especially parts that require other things to be torn apart to get to. It may come to that no matter what depending on what the problem actually is, just hoping to be more certain about it before ripping into it. I've got two weeks before I take it to the shop. If I can take care of it myself, I can happily cancel that trip.

Roadmaster 49, you don't have to pull the steering wheel to change the ignition switch. In fact, I believe there is a good chance that you need the ignition switch. The P-32 has a reputation of having too many things hooked to it.
Check Dales' site out here on how to replace switch and install a relay so it probably will not go bad again Oemy's Web Site - DIY Projects

I believe the ignition part # is KS6622 ECHLIN

Brazel's RV Performance · 04-08-2014, 09:11 PM

The Workhorse ignition switch kit upgrade is part #W8002085

max49 · 04-08-2014, 09:34 PM

When mine started to go bad, it would'nt do any thing when I turned the key, maybe the dash lights went out, can't remember. But then I'd turn the key off and try it again and it worked and started the engine perfect. I took this as a red flag warning and put the new switch with relay in and it's been working fine for a few years now with no hiccups.

roadmaster49 · 04-09-2014, 08:21 AM

Ooooh... Will definitely check that out.

I'll post a follow-up on what it was no matter how I end up getting it fixed.

roadmaster49 · 04-12-2014, 02:08 PM

It was burned out and UGLY.

I got the starter relay/switch at a local NAPA shop, but had to go 35 miles to the regional warehouse to get the pigtail connector. Apparently there are only 2 of the connectors in the entire metro Atlanta area and they were at that warehouse. Even with the ACDelco and BWD part #s, most places didn't know what it was and those that did would have to special order it.

In case anyone needs them in the future, the interchange part numbers for this particular connector are...

GM: 12102602
Echelin: AC610
AC Delco: PT289
BWD: PT6110

The starter relay/switch Echelin # is KS6622 as stated on the walkthrough at http://oemys-performance.com/diyprojects5.htm#switchfix

I hope the switch is the root of the problem and not a symptom. Will have to find out tomorrow though. Going to the races @ Dixie Speedway in a bit and don't have time to install the new one. Update y'all then. In the meantime enjoy the image of burned up electrical components...

joanbill · 04-13-2014, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadmaster49

It was burned out and UGLY.

I got the starter relay/switch at a local NAPA shop, but had to go 35 miles to the regional warehouse to get the pigtail connector. Apparently there are only 2 of the connectors in the entire metro Atlanta area and they were at that warehouse. Even with the ACDelco and BWD part #s, most places didn't know what it was and those that did would have to special order it.

In case anyone needs them in the future, the interchange part numbers for this particular connector are...

GM: 12102602
Echelin: AC610
AC Delco: PT289
BWD: PT6110

The starter relay/switch Echelin # is KS6622 as stated on the walkthrough at Oemy's Web Site - DIY Projects

I hope the switch is the root of the problem and not a symptom. Will have to find out tomorrow though. Going to the races @ Dixie Speedway in a bit and don't have time to install the new one. Update y'all then. In the meantime enjoy the image of burned up electrical components...

I am having the exact same problem. Turn the key and get one click. The starter does not even turn over. All batteries (house and chassis) are new. Have had no problems starting since I bought coach in January (2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U on Workhorse chassis w/V-8 Vortec Chevy engine). Check starter relay fuse (good) and starter relay looks good. Very hard to get near starter with the leveling jacks and other obstructions but did a few taps on it with no good results. Can't reach by hands unless jacked up a bit and I am too old for that.

Question: Where is the pigtail connector that was burned up? Is it near the Fuse/Relay box on drivers side behind hood? Was the relay you replaced the square grey one on the fuse/relay panel? Thanks.