Sticking caliper piston

[nimo]

Hi all.
Yesterday did a road test on a 2003 peace arrow 36b, the unit had been moved a few time a year ‘’short trip’’ during the road test I found that the rear break on the driver side was getting worm and smelly a bit, did some more driving and all was fine, could it be that if I work back the piston in the caliper a few time it will clear it self.. ?
I know I should take it to a mechanic, I’m just curious to see if some one have been there before.. And do I need to remove the wheel to remove the caliper ?
I have not crawl under yet..
Thanks again.

[paz]

Workhorse had a recall on Bosch brakes for the exact problem you experienced. Have the seller check with Workhorse to see if the recall repair work has been performed. If not, have it done before considering the purchase of the coach.

If this coach is at a dealer, I believe it is illegal for him to sell a vehicle with an active recall. If a private seller, he may have missed it. Either way, it needs to be taken care of before you buy.

If the recall has been done, the problem may be happening again because the vehicle has been sitting for a long period of time and the brake fluid has absorbed moisture from the atmosphere. If that's the case, the caliper(s) will need to be rebuilt or replaced, and the brakes will need to be bled to get rid of the moisture. And yes, the wheel needs to come off to get at the caliper.

[oh no]

Workhorse had a brake recall for this .we have a 2003 w22 chassis was fix on this recall . If its sticking now it willn't go away

[edgray]

The Bosch Brake recall was only for the W-20 thru W-22 series chassis, so IF this is a P32, no recall. Yes, you have to pull the rear wheels to remove the caliper. Before doing all that, I would first determine which chassis, and then if it is a W series, look for a date code STAMPED into the back side of the caliper (just above the casting number) which will indicate it already has the "new" calipers provided by the recall.

[nimo]

Thanks to all, I just bought the MH to day and it’s doing it’s first night sleep in my driveway. Very anxious to start working on it..
I went through the paper of the previous owner and saw that they did the mod on 2 caliper only, I still have to look for the sticky label under the hood and yes I will look on the caliper it self to find a number.. But what number.??
Again, thanks to all.

[edgray]

Originally Posted by puzzegb

Thanks to all, I just bought the MH to day and it’s doing it’s first night sleep in my driveway. Very anxious to start working on it..
I went through the paper of the previous owner and saw that they did the mod on 2 caliper only, I still have to look for the sticky label under the hood and yes I will look on the caliper it self to find a number.. But what number.??
Again, thanks to all.

Just guessing here, but I think the two calipers may have been done as a repair, and would not have been done under the terms of the recall. The recall mandated all 4 calipers be replaced.

There isn't "a" number; it is a date code which changed daily and included a letter to signify which shift. I'm betting you won't find any number STAMPED into the casting above the casting number molded into the backside.

One way to confirm the recall was done (or not) is to post ONLY the last 8 digits of the chassis vin# so I can check the warranty records for you. If you want to use PM that's ok, too. Ed

[nimo]

Hi Ted.
Today, I did a lot of work on the rv, repaired the steps, that the previous owner had to support with some wood.. The main pin had lost the cutter pin and was just hanging on one side all 8 bolt where loose, also found out that both main batt of the couch are fried..
I did went under to do a grease job and saw that all 4 caliper look brand new they look like there made of aluminum I found the sticker under the dash 1101 some thing.
With some more info from my wife, I now realize that because the rv had been sitting for a while and before our test ride the hand break would not disengage the P O actually had to go around to his side door to manually raise the hand break.. Not a good sine, so I figure that’s the reason for the smell of the break.
I will try to find a way to oil or grease those cable..
One question, after leveling with the jack, why is it that one of the back jack is not resting gain’s the wood block

[mgscott4]

Be carefull under there. Always chock your wheels before crawling under your rig.

Don,t forget to lube the shaft under your steps too not just the side arms on your steps.

Make sure the brake caliper recall was done if applicable.

I used to lube motorcycle cables by cutting a hole in the corner of a baggie and rubber band it over one end of the cable and then use the baggie as a funnel and pour oil into it and let gravity do its thing.

Spray silicone lubricant on the shinny jack shaft and manually cycle it up and down a few times. Check for leaks, check the reservoir level when everything is retracted.

[edgray]

Originally Posted by puzzegb

Hi Ted.
Today, I did a lot of work on the rv, repaired the steps, that the previous owner had to support with some wood.. The main pin had lost the cutter pin and was just hanging on one side all 8 bolt where loose, also found out that both main batt of the couch are fried..
I did went under to do a grease job and saw that all 4 caliper look brand new they look like there made of aluminum I found the sticker under the dash 1101 some thing.
With some more info from my wife, I now realize that because the rv had been sitting for a while and before our test ride the hand break would not disengage the P O actually had to go around to his side door to manually raise the hand break.. Not a good sine, so I figure that’s the reason for the smell of the break.
I will try to find a way to oil or grease those cable..
One question, after leveling with the jack, why is it that one of the back jack is not resting gain’s the wood block

I can assure you the calipers are not aluminum, and you don't say if you found the date code stamping.

The Bosch Brake recall # was 51101-C and the lowest number (date code) stamped into the backside of the calipers was 0155A. Any number greater than that means you have the "new" style calipers provided by the recall.

There is no "hand break" on a W series, but there is a foot-applied PB which is a drum brake around the DS just aft of the tranny. IF the smell was from those shoes dragging, they may have worn down to the point of no longer working to hold the coach parked, leaving you with only the pawl inside the tranny, assuming this is a W-20/W-22. What is the character in the sixth position of the vin# ?

[nimo]

I have the info that your ask, maybe you can revel me some secrets of the VIN.#
Vin: 5B4MP67G733367862
The number on the caliper is 4153269 by what you told me I can assume that the caliper a fairly new.. ? And that is why they are so shiny and look like allum.
Do I need this number when I order pads, yes I have the foolish idea to replace them my self ‘’ If I can do it safely’’ can you refer me to a jacking by owner information ?
From the info in your last letter I did found the park break near the trany and it appear to work ok meaning… I can see a small gap when release and the arm move quit a bit when the pedal… is press. One thing, when I press the pedal, I only ear on click.
So, I figure what happened was that the back break on the driver side is also on the water inlet of the camping site, so with time it got splash and rusted a bit more. As my mirror inspection revel, both back disk are rusted a bit but show sing of getting clean up. In the back, I still have ¼ inch. of the shoo available, is this ok..?
Would breaking while backing up would help the cleaning process and free up every thing..?
So, I guess, for now I’m satisfied with the under neat, just need to put some miles on her while keeping an eye on that left wheel temperature..
Thanks again.. where do i find if it is a W20 orW22

[edgray]

Originally Posted by puzzegb

I have the info that your ask, maybe you can revel me some secrets of the VIN.#
Vin: 5B4MP67G733367862
The number on the caliper is 4153269 by what you told me I can assume that the caliper a fairly new.. ? And that is why they are so shiny and look like allum.
Do I need this number when I order pads, yes I have the foolish idea to replace them my self ‘’ If I can do it safely’’ can you refer me to a jacking by owner information ?
From the info in your last letter I did found the park break near the trany and it appear to work ok meaning… I can see a small gap when release and the arm move quit a bit when the pedal… is press. One thing, when I press the pedal, I only ear on click.
So, I figure what happened was that the back break on the driver side is also on the water inlet of the camping site, so with time it got splash and rusted a bit more. As my mirror inspection revel, both back disk are rusted a bit but show sing of getting clean up. In the back, I still have ¼ inch. of the shoo available, is this ok..?
Would breaking while backing up would help the cleaning process and free up every thing..?
So, I guess, for now I’m satisfied with the under neat, just need to put some miles on her while keeping an eye on that left wheel temperature..
Thanks again.. where do i find if it is a W20 orW22

The vin # you provided is for a 2003 W-22 chassis originally sold to Fleetwood. The Bosch Brake recall was completed 1/10/2012 at 78,098 miles.
The caliper number you reported is the casting number MOLDED into the metal. The recall-provided calipers were supposed to have a 4 digit and one letter "date code" STAMPED into the casting near the 4153269 casting number.

I would not suggest you consider replacing the pads yourself. For one thing, you'll have to remove the wheels which requires you to overcome 475 LBS /feet of torque to remove teach lug nut. IF the pads are as thin as you think, it is a shame the PO didn't have them replaced while the recall was being completed, but this R & R should be done professionally, IMO. Also, the pin slide should be cleaned and lubed while the calipers are off.

I have downloaded the entire "build sheet" for that chassis. Send me an email edgray1@gmail.com , so I can reply with it as an attachment.

[nimo]

I have the info that your ask, maybe you can revel me some secrets of the VIN.#
Vin: 5B4MP67G733367862
The number on the caliper is 4153269 by what you told me I can assume that the caliper a fairly new.. ? And that is why they are so shiny and look like allum.
Do I need this number when I order pads, yes I have the foolish idea to replace them my self ‘’ If I can do it safely’’ can you refer me to a jacking by owner information ?
From the info in your last letter I did found the park break near the trany and it appear to work ok meaning… I can see a small gap when release and the arm move quit a bit when the pedal… is press. One thing, when I press the pedal, I only ear on click.
So, I figure what happened was that the back break on the driver side is also on the water inlet of the camping site, so with time it got splash and rusted a bit more. As my mirror inspection revel, both back disk are rusted a bit but show sing of getting clean up. In the back, I still have ¼ inch. of the shoo available, is this ok..?
Would breaking while backing up would help the cleaning process and free up every thing..?
So, I guess, for now I’m satisfied with the under neat, just need to put some miles on her while keeping an eye on that left wheel temperature.. Tomorrow I’ll chec the stamp ‘number on the caliper
Thanks again..

[2003Mountain]

When we purchased our 2003 Mountainaire during the recall period prior to the parts being available, I took it to Camping World in Syracuse to get the advertised temporary fix done. It sat there for 3 weeks and they never even looked at it. I took the motorhome to my regular mechanic and found the brakes to be a disaster, to the point that they could not legally let it out of their shop without a repair. They replaced the calipers with some that had stainless steel pistons and sleeves. We have not had a problem since except a trip west wore the pads down I checked at that time and Workhorse would still do the recall but it only would cover the calipers and not the pads and discs.

Sounds like the Workhorse fix might still have issues, from what I'm reading in the notes.

Good luck
Tom Hancock

[edgray]

Originally Posted by 2003Mountain

When we purchased our 2003 Mountainaire during the recall period prior to the parts being available, I took it to Camping World in Syracuse to get the advertised temporary fix done. It sat there for 3 weeks and they never even looked at it. I took the motorhome to my regular mechanic and found the brakes to be a disaster, to the point that they could not legally let it out of their shop without a repair. They replaced the calipers with some that had stainless steel pistons and sleeves. We have not had a problem since except a trip west wore the pads down I checked at that time and Workhorse would still do the recall but it only would cover the calipers and not the pads and discs.

Sounds like the Workhorse fix might still have issues, from what I'm reading in the notes.

Good luck
Tom Hancock

TOM:
WELCOME to iRV2.com and the Workhorse forum ! Glad you joined and posted.

From your post, are we to assume you never had the recall completed? And, can you elaborate about why you think the "fix" may still have problems....I have not seen much, if anything, to support that theory.

Again, WELCOME.
Ed