Upgrades on my 2000 P32

[siilver97]

Just purchased a 2000 Fleetwood with the 454/4l80e/Dana 80 set up. I'm going through the whole chassis and repairing or upgrading. Has the common exhaust manifold leak so some Banks Torque tubes are on the way. I think I found a performance muffler that will fit without much modification(AP Exhaust XS2588). I was going to change all the fluids and tune it up also. I have a trans temp gauge on the way. I ordered a mag-hytec deep pan but my order was cancelled and refunded. I don't know why and 4wheel parts won't answer the phone. That might not be so bad because I saw that the headers have a heat shield that mounts to the pan so I may have to go with one that only holds 2 more quarts instead of 4 and drill and tap for the temp sender. The trans has a factory cooler that may get a added fan. We will see what temps look like. The RGS switch for the autopark blew on the ride home so I will get the upgrade switch from Ultrarv. Changing the diff oil to Mobil 1 75W90. Steering and suspension look good and it drove and stopped great from the sellers house which was 2 hours away. It has new Bilsteins, tires, and brakes. I'm planning on doing a 2 week trip in September from VA to KY and OH. So over the WV mountains and about 2000 miles. Anything else I should look at?

[yeloduster]

Serpentine belt and hoses.

[donr103]

You don't say how many miles? Hrs on generator ? Yes change coolant, hoses, and thermostat.. use coldest thermostat you are comfortable with. ( warning.. the water pump bypass hose is a real pain.. ) .. check engine fan clutch.. . have you changed and flushed brake oil? Many are upgrading to DOT. 4 instead of 3... have you flushed and changed P/S oil.. ? Now the p/s system does a lot more than give you p/s.. it's a hydroboost system.. I found after I bought mine in 2018.. the p/s resovior had crud in bottom.. I added a p/s oil cooler because they don't have one from factory..
Now you need to remember the fuel line to generator is well over 20+ and all of it needs replaced.. there is about 2ft over tank you need to replace.. see KEVIN CAUDELL ON YOU TUBE.. how one man can drop tank..
Then you need to replace auto park oil.. it gets moisture in it and rust the guts inside a/p system.. if you have hydraulic levelers.. change oil.. and closely inspect each hose.. my hose had split on passenger side front by exhaust manifolds.. there is more.. but that is enough for now.. oh.. check tire date on spare.. mine is 23yrs old.. way too old.. soon as I can.. it gets fixed
Good luck and keep us posted

[siilver97]

thanks for the reply. You pointed out some things I didn't think of. I was going to do the generator maintenance( oil change, plug, filters) but did not think of the supply line. I looked at the coolant today and it was that dex cool brown sludge. So a complete flush is in order. I was going to change the thermostat but also wanted to change the water pump and fan clutch because of their age. Access doesn't look easy. Any tips?

[siilver97]

Where is the best place to buy the correct engine and chassis parts for a 7.4 older work horse? I find myself having to look up for a Chevy C3500 pickup. Looking for a water pump and fan clutch now and there are two, reverse rotation and standard.

[yeloduster]

Originally Posted by siilver97

Where is the best place to buy the correct engine and chassis parts for a 7.4 older work horse? I find myself having to look up for a Chevy C3500 pickup. Looking for a water pump and fan clutch now and there are two, reverse rotation and standard.

To get good advice you need to let us know EXACTLY what your motorhome is. Tell us brand, year, etc.

1999 is the first year for Workhorse P series. You are better off calling it a Chevrolet! Anything before 1999 IS A CHEVY. The 2000 P30 with the 7.4L seems to be in never never land. It is not listed as a P30 Chevy and Workhorse parts doesn't list water pumps! I'm positive at 2000 Workhorse P32 with a 7.4L is the SAME as a 1999 with a 7.4L.

Rock Auto and Oreilly auto both have water pumps listed for the 1999 and older P3X Chevy. You will have to determine the direction of rotation because they list both for your engine!

[George Schweikle]

Don't forget to flush and replace the brake fluid.

Consider a scangauge or aftermarket engine coolant temperature gauge. The P-series dashboard gauges are known to very inaccurate.

Originally Posted by yeloduster

Serpentine belt and hoses.

[David 70]

Get yourself a Scsngauge II You can use it to see the correct engine coolant temp, trans temp, short and long term fuel trims, battery voltage, and a whole host of other things. Also make sure to check between the ac condenser and the radiator for plug radiator fins. I had trouble with mine overheating and finally found the radiator fins were plugged up. Also check the engine oil cooler lines. They are known to leak at the crimps. For most of your chassis parts chek out UltraRV. I've been getting most all my parts from them. They are the go to for especially the P32 parts. They are friendly and easy to work with.
I have 62,000 miles on mine although I can't say it's been trouble free but it is a lot to be moving around on a comparatively light chassis. Take care of it and you will be fine. In fact, my cooler lines are leaking again and my wipers decided they don't want to shut off. I have both parts on the way from Ultra. Their parts are not cheap but at least they have them.
Also be sure to watch for signs of coolant in the oil. The intake manifold gaskets are known to shrink and let coolant into the engine.
Hopefully this is not scaring you into thinking you bought a piece of crap but it is nearly 25 years old and it just needs a little tlc.

[Fyrflie]

Originally Posted by siilver97

thanks for the reply. You pointed out some things I didn't think of. I was going to do the generator maintenance( oil change, plug, filters) but did not think of the supply line. I looked at the coolant today and it was that dex cool brown sludge. So a complete flush is in order. I was going to change the thermostat but also wanted to change the water pump and fan clutch because of their age. Access doesn't look easy. Any tips?

I just did what you’re suggesting above on my 2001 P32.
The following had to be removed or moved to gain access.
*Right Front Tire - For Best access
*Radiator Brace
*Right Side Heat Shield
*Alternator and associated bracketry
*Throttle Body and Studs
*Air Intake Tube
*Air Conditioner Compressor - unbolted and moved to the side

Seems like a long list, but it was pretty simple to remove or move the parts I listed. The most difficult part for me was holding the water pump with one hand while starting the bolts and making sure the gaskets are correctly positioned.
Also, get or borrow the Fan Clutch wrench set. I did not have enough space to remove the fan and water pump as one unit, so had to seperate the fan clutch and pump and remove one at a time.
I was able to use Gates hoses for upper and lower but others on this form have had fitment issues. The GM bypass hose was a perfect fit.
The two engine block drain plugs use an 8 mm Allen head wrench.
Most access will be from the right side wheel well, but other access will be through the doghouse.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[EyezOpen]

Originally Posted by yeloduster

To get good advice you need to let us know EXACTLY what your motorhome is. Tell us brand, year, etc.

1999 is the first year for Workhorse P series. You are better off calling it a Chevrolet! Anything before 1999 IS A CHEVY. The 2000 P30 with the 7.4L seems to be in never never land. It is not listed as a P30 Chevy and Workhorse parts doesn't list water pumps! I'm positive at 2000 Workhorse P32 with a 7.4L is the SAME as a 1999 with a 7.4L.

Rock Auto and Oreilly auto both have water pumps listed for the 1999 and older P3X Chevy. You will have to determine the direction of rotation because they list both for your engine!

Very true, it would not at all uncommon to have a 99 chassis sitting under a 2000 model yr cab/RV....and then there is the possibility of someone tinkering around with a 23 yr old RV.

Post your casting numbers off your block, that will give the precise engine ID. Just a opinion here the need for a higher capacity oil pan is...well not so much comes to mind.

If by chance you are somewhat software savvy below is a link to a program that is quite simple and a very powerful diagnostic tool...and it's free!

https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm

https://www.tunerpro.net/downloadPlu...%20and%20newer.

Data acquisition plug-in for communicating with ELM327-based OBDII interfaces. This basic plug-in allows you to monitor real-time OBDII data (the generic PIDs) from nearly all vehicles 1996 and newer. Interfaces can be purchased from various sources, including here.

Updated November 3rd, 2013

- Updated the reference definition to be more useful
- Fixed minor bug in plug-in that could cause TunerPro to crash

https://wowmusclecars.com/chevrolet-...ck-casting-no/

[David 70]

The vin tag will tell you the month and year of mfg. for both the chassis and the coach. Mine is a 01-2000 on the chassis and a 02-2000 on the coach. Does yours have the wide front end? I think most of the Workhorse built chassis built in 2000 do. I may be wrong but I have been finding that for the most part they do. If it has a 99 build date then it could be either. To bleed the brakes check out EZ-Bleeder, they have bleeders that make it easy to do. Ed Gray found the build sheet for mine but the last I heard the web site he was getting the info from was down and there was no indication whether it was going to be back up or not.

[EyezOpen]

Originally Posted by David 70

The vin tag will tell you the month and year of mfg. for both the chassis and the coach. Mine is a 01-2000 on the chassis and a 02-2000 on the coach. Does yours have the wide front end? I think most of the Workhorse built chassis built in 2000 do. I may be wrong but I have been finding that for the most part they do. If it has a 99 build date then it could be either. To bleed the brakes check out EZ-Bleeder, they have bleeders that make it easy to do. Ed Gray found the build sheet for mine but the last I heard the web site he was getting the info from was down and there was no indication whether it was going to be back up or not.

VIN CODES have little to do with block casts, especially during transition yrs. A 99 engine in a 2000 chassis is a normal build, we are not speaking to cars.

Perhaps new laws/ guidelines have been written however. That possibility does exist

[David 70]

I wasn't talking about engine codes, just a better understanding of when the chassis was actually built. I've had people on here try to tell me my chassis did not have the wide stance front end as built and that it had been added afterwards with a kit from UltraRV. Ed Gray got me the build sheet stating that it had the wide stance front.

[EyezOpen]

Originally Posted by David 70

I wasn't talking about engine codes, just a better understanding of when the chassis was actually built. I've had people on here try to tell me my chassis did not have the wide stance front end as built and that it had been added afterwards with a kit from UltraRV. Ed Gray got me the build sheet stating that it had the wide stance front.

All good points. I've been restoring a older RV from the ground up so to speak. There are issues I have faced that are rather peculiar. After more than a few confusing moments I now source all parts in a very skeptical manner. Below is a link to the RV world.

https://pricedigests.com/blog/danger...e%20two%20VINs.

The reason a VIN would decode to different models is because the VIN was officially assigned to the chassis and not the final RV. After decoding, you would receive the chassis model rather than the final RV model. The VIN below is a random example of an RV VIN . This VIN was entered into Price Digests Vin Decoder.

Here you will see the VIN listed as a 2019 Winnebago Intent CLASS A with a 29L floor plan.


When entering the RV’s VIN into Price Digests’ VIN decoding database, it returns as a 2018 F-56 stripped chassis class A motorhome.