W-22 Differential service interval

[03Dolphinlx]

I have a 2003 W-22 with 27k miles. I just finished changing the coolant/brake fluid and leveler fluids. I can't seem to find much about the differental service intervals. I do have synthetic oil which should extend the service interval. What is the recommended intervals?

[03Dolphinlx]

I have a 2003 W-22 with 27k miles. I just finished changing the coolant/brake fluid and leveler fluids. I can't seem to find much about the differental service intervals. I do have synthetic oil which should extend the service interval. What is the recommended intervals?

[Oemtech]

In most cases it is almost never.

But, I just changed mine about week or so ago as it is going on 5 years of usage. Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic is about $9 a qt and it takes 12 quarts to do my W22.

The fluid was ok overall. But, there was maybe a pint of fluid that looked like a milk shake. Pretty much normal for the usage and probably do to condensation via the differential vent.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
But, I just changed mine about week or so ago as it is going on 5 years of usage. Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic is about $9 a qt and it takes 12 quarts to do my W22.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Dale, In hindsight and now seeing the results of the change would you recommend that the differential fluid be changed every five years or would you think that your fluid could have continued to provide good service.

At that price perhaps a small sample to Blackstone would have been in order prior to the change.

[tderonne]

I looked up the recommended service in the Dana manual in the other thread, but the latest manual appears to have new info (on page 46). Not sure what wheel ends the W22 has, the 5 year interval is for the LMS ends (Low Maintanence System). I suspect those are new?

You can find the complete manual at the Roadranger website:

S110 and S130 webpage

[Oemtech]

I would suspect that the gear oil would have been usable for many more years. But, I was a bit surprised at the small amount of "water" that had collected in a "closed" system.

[FreshAir]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
In most cases it is almost never.

But, I just changed mine about week or so ago as it is going on 5 years of usage. Mobil 1 75w-90 Synthetic is about $9 a qt and it takes 12 quarts to do my W22.

The fluid was ok overall. But, there was maybe a pint of fluid that looked like a milk shake. Pretty much normal for the usage and probably do to condensation via the differential vent. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Interesting info. It would be interesting to know if that under normal operating conditions how long before you could expect to see some water presence as the milk shake color. My experience with outboard boat drives is it is a common scenario for some water to cause the "milk shake" color in a small amount of the oil in the outdrive. This is usually only an indicator to be aware but of not a great concern as the gear oil is designed to operate and protect normally with about 20% water mix, as I remember. I'm speaking now of outdrive marine oil with fresh water and not a Salt Water mix.

I would think that because of venting and condensation you would expect some water. With 12 quarts and 1 pint of a water mix your way below the outboard oil danger threshold.

You've got me curious, if I saw your 1 pint milk shake I wouldn't panic but I probably would change oil. Of course you don't know that until you changed oil. How did you know you had 1 pint of milk shake oil? Can you let the rig sit for a day or two and then drain some of the low point oil which will contain any water that is present? Do you drain all the oil and then let it sit for a couple of days for separation?

Maybe I'm making a mountain out of the little one, but how could one check for water? Do you have to suck it out or loosen the back plate to drain?

Dale, give us some guidance here as you always seem to do.
Pat

PS, with all the floods lately, a good rear end check could really be important on buying a used Rig???

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FreshAir:
PS, with all the floods lately, a good rear end check could really be important on buying a used Rig??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>FreshAir, We have already seen that and one of our members did blow a rear which it was latter determined that it was indeed in a flood. So it can happen.

I'm not sure if the differential housing itself is subject to condensation from atmospheric heating and cooling?

[speed racer]

I have found that short trips and area climate have a lot to do with moisture in diff.,manual trans. and even engine oil. It is my experiance (40 years auto/truck mech.) that in these conditions (short trips/high humidity) you should change these fluids more often. I am not an expert on syn.oils but I have been told that water doesn't mix as easely with these lubricants so in my opinion they would be better and last longer for that reason along with better lubrication.

[Oemtech]

I let the rig sit for a day or so after coming in in after a short road trip. Because I didn't have a pan large enough to hold 3 gallons of fluid I had to do it in 2 parts... drain, dump, drain & dump. I notice the milk shake in the first drain.

OBTW - The drain plug is magnetic and it did have a few whisker of metal on it. Again, pretty much normal.

[CJBROWN]

I just always change all my diffs to amsoil synthetic as cheap insurance. I do them as a matter of course at some time in the first year that I buy them, always have. My coach got done at about 12K.

If the diff got hot on break-in, a failure due to lubrication may not show up for many thousands of miles - long after the warranty has run out. For for me, it's just cheap insurance, and I know I don't have to worry about it for the rest of the life of the vehicle (I always sell before they wear out). Just check the level once a year, make sure it's not contaminated.

[Max Hubrich]

Dad-gum-it Omey,

Now you have me out at 6:30 AM changing my differential fluid---

I didn't find what you reported--. My fluid was clear with no signs of water. I watched every bit of fluid coming out. I also didn't find any metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug.

Here are some pictures of the process:


Tools needed: 1/2" ratchet, or breaker bar preferably. I used two drain pans-- putting the plug back in as the first pan was getting full.



I cut a 6" piece of 5/8" (I.D.) clear plastic tubing and shoved it on the funnel end for ease of pouring the new fluid into the differential.
It took 12 qts, as the "Oemy" described. I also wrapped teflon plumbers tape on the drain and filler plugs. Omey, you can see the Ultra Trac you sent me-- installed, yup I did it. I haven't tried it out yet.



I bought my full synthetic 75/90 oil at Car Quest, item #BO SUS 217. $5.75 qt, with tax the total was $73.66


The 12 qts brought the level up to the bottom of the fill plug hole. No spillage at all

Driver--Would I do it again on this rig-- nope! I see no reason too, since I found no contamination and no metal particles at all. The differential has no heat source like a tranny attached to an engine or the brakes calipers from pad friction. My rig has 34,000 miles and is almost 7 years old. I might have a true cross country trip coming up soon (eastern NC to the Sacramento area of CA) and this makes me feel better doing the fluid change. It took about an hour once I got enough courage to crawl under the rig on wet pavement-- I laid an old shower curtain on the concrete. Made it feel better to me.

Good luck to the other DIY's on this forum,

[Oemtech]

Max.

Let me see if there is anything else I can come up with to get you under your coach again.... A Front Trac Bar comes to mind.

As I said when I did mine... probably not necessary unless you run in high temps or where there is a lot of humidity.

How long to install the Trac Bar?

[Max Hubrich]

Omey,

It took a couple of hours-- I got rained on in the process, all tools soaking wet

I did the easy part, the final hook up of the bar with all the weight on the ground, two days later.

Neat set up----- Thanks,