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Old 11-11-2005, 02:34 PM   #1
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Hi folks,
I am hoping that someone on this forum can give me information on the electrical connections that are accessable from the cockpit, in the compartment behind the W22 instrument cluster. My owner's manual, p.4-70 shows the Internal Fuse Block, but there is no reference ( or picture ) to the wiring block just to the left of the fuse block. I need to identify a live ignition tie-point and ( hopefully ) a brake-light function tie point. Is this info contained in a separate WH document or manual?
A related question; where in/on the chassis, is the "External Fuse Block", shown on page 4-71 of my owner's manual ( WH manual W0006485 ).

Thanks for any help,
Brewer
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Old 11-11-2005, 02:34 PM   #2
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Workhorse Chassis Owner
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Hi folks,
I am hoping that someone on this forum can give me information on the electrical connections that are accessable from the cockpit, in the compartment behind the W22 instrument cluster. My owner's manual, p.4-70 shows the Internal Fuse Block, but there is no reference ( or picture ) to the wiring block just to the left of the fuse block. I need to identify a live ignition tie-point and ( hopefully ) a brake-light function tie point. Is this info contained in a separate WH document or manual?
A related question; where in/on the chassis, is the "External Fuse Block", shown on page 4-71 of my owner's manual ( WH manual W0006485 ).

Thanks for any help,
Brewer
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:23 PM   #3
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What kind of project are you working on?
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:10 PM   #4
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Brewer, you best bet is to call National Owners Section 800-999-7260, in my opinion the person who wrote the Owners Manual, never looked at the RV prior to writing the manual. The support section is very knowledgeable and should point you in the right direction.

Fred
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:21 PM   #5
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Brewer,
I believe that block next to the internal fuse block is used by the coach mfr. National. In mine it is located to the left of the steering column and the WH internal fuse block. I used that block for access to ign switched 12 volts. also has unswitched there too, I think, it's been awhile . There are 3 relays attached at the bottom of the block.
Ext block is under the hood high up front above the jack level pump assy. Thats the layout on my 03.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:11 AM   #6
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Thanks for the replies.

The project I'm working on, is the hook-up of a brake-assist controller ( either SMI or USG Unified TB ). I have already called National RV Owner Services, and was told, rather bluntly by "Mathew" that all cockpit wiring in the coach was a Workhorse concern. As M&EM stated, ( and I suspected ) the wiring block next to the Internal Fuse Block has the wiring that relates to those fuses and circuit breakers. Two more questions for M&EM; 1) could you tell me the color-coding of the Ignition-switched wire & ANY ground wire? 2) Is the brake-light function available on the External Fuse Block, under the hood? I can see that the brake-light switch itself is accessable on the power-brake unit under the hood, but I would prefer not to splice into it, if there is a terminal post available ( any size ) that has the same function.

Thanks again,

Brewer
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Old 11-12-2005, 10:40 AM   #7
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Brewer,
I believe there is a stop lite switch funtion working off the brake pedal inside the coach. I don't remember for sure but the white and lt. blue wires may be feeds for body/coach builders and may get 12 volts when the brake lights come on. These same wires maybe feed TAC module and ABS so be concerned about feed back/noise to them. Try to trace the coach builders application for either of these wires such as trailer lite relay which should include the function you are looking for. Use a test light or VM to check out IGn switched power at the auxilliary block under the dash.Look for several black wires bonded to metal framing under the dash someplace for a ground.
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Old 11-12-2005, 11:49 AM   #8
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Hi Brewer. I have a 2004 Dolphin on the W22. I have the Unified Tow Brake, which I have used for 30K trouble-free miles (also installed on previous RV). This is a great tow brake.

Brake light Power: If you look directly under the steering column, at the brake pedal, you will see two switches. You will find +12V (when braking) on the blue wire on the forward most switch. This switch has three wires and you want the one cloest to the passenger (blue).

Ignition: On my RV if you remove the access panel on top of the dash and look in you will see the large fuse/breaker block. Now look below this & to the left and you should see a small 6 fuse block screwed directly to the plywood. Add a fuse to the unused right rear position and the output of this will be +12V when the ignition is on.

Ground: I also found a factory ground point under the dash and added a wire for my ground.

I send my lighting, +12V, and the wires for the TOAD brake controller through the TOAD cable so I only need to connect this one cable and I'm good to go.

It is possible your RV may have different wiring however, what worked for me may also work for you.

Let me know If you have other questions. Particularly if you go with the UTB.

JoeG
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Old 11-12-2005, 03:15 PM   #9
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Joe,

Thanks for your updates. I checked the connection blocks inside the cockpit dash cover-plate, & like you said, there is an auxilliary fuse block to the left/below the main block, with one unused fuse position. All appear to be "fed" by a white/red-stripe wire, approx. 10 gage. What size fuse did you use, to connect the UTB "Ignition" lead ( or was the fuse you used supplied, as part of the UTB kit )?
As I noted in a post to the Open Roads, Dinghy-Towing forum, the plug at the rear of my coach is a 6-way, with the usual Running, Ground, LT/Brake & RT/Brake functions, plus the "back-up" function and one spare pin. I plan to remove the back-up wire and replace it with the +12V function, and use the spare pin for the Brake-control function ( much the same way you have done ). I am planning to build a separate LED light-bar for the back of the Wrangler, so as not to compromise the existing Jeep wiring or tail-light housings. I will probably order the UTB kit in the next few days, as PPL Motorhomes ( Texas ) has the system on sale for $699.
BTW, my posts on the OR forums, on this & other subjects are under the "alias" BrewGuy.
Thanks to all for the help on this problem.
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Old 11-12-2005, 05:22 PM   #10
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I have the SMI Stay-In-Play and there are no connections required inside the motorhome. It's all wireless.

I've been running mine since July and I like it a lot. 1 switch to turn on and off and that's it!

The toad on the other hand needs a bit of work installing the system but once installed I believe it's an excellent system. One thing I like about the SMI is the wire cable that integrates with the power cylinder it's only a few inches long and has no bends nor is it routed under the floor mat.
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:41 PM   #11
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Brewer,

I added a 3A fuse and I'm sure, without checking, that I chose 3A because that is what the UTB specified. I also purchased my UTB from the Texas company.

The wireless approach sounds good however, I really like the features of the UTB and running the wires back to the TOAD connector was not a big deal. I chose to add diodes for my TOAD directional/brake/parking lighting and that also was easy. Someone on RV.Net even provided the wiring colors to locate for my TOAD (Jeep Wrangler, which is a really great TOAD by-the-way). Having said that I am a Master Electrican so wiring comes more or less easy, though automotive wiring is always strange.

Let me know if you have additional questions.

Joe G
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Old 11-13-2005, 04:59 PM   #12
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Thanks to all for updates.

I was torn between the SMI Silent Partner & the USG/TB, but the installation instructions for the SMI unit appeared to be a bit more complex for the Toad install. The SMI Stay-In-Play is a bit simpler, but I wanted a system that had direct control over the toad brakes from the coach. In addition, the use of a pnuematic cylinder to pull the brake pedal, does not seem to be as flexible as the USG solenoid ( pnuematic controls are usually full-on or full-off, as air is obviously highly compressible, and therefore cannot be used to proportionally control the amount of pedal displacement ). Anyhoo, I will order the US Gear system this week.

Brewer
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Old 11-13-2005, 05:37 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Brewer:
(pneumatic controls are usually full-on or full-off, as air is obviously highly compressible, and therefore cannot be used to proportionally control the amount of pedal displacement). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Brewer, Before you buy, call Peter Schuck @ SMI Brake, 800-893-3763, for detailed briefing about "his" product. I met Pete in Casa Grande, AZ and I was absolutely sold on the Stay-In-Play once I understood how it works.

As opposed to being pneumatic which implies pressure within a container the SMI brake uses vacuum.

Patent pending vacuum cylinder applies your towed vehicle's power assisted brakes AND supplies additional brake effort in a panic stop. Only 10 pounds of force on your brake pedal in normal braking.

Now that being said, Workhorse has endorsed the UTB and they recommend the product.
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Old 11-14-2005, 11:57 AM   #14
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The Unified Tow Brake (UTB) uses an electrical solenoid to operate the power brakes and an electric vacuum pump to keep vacuum on the brake boster. The braking is proportional plus you can manually apply the TOAD brakes . The system comes complete with the break-away switch and full diagnostics on the in-RV control.

I'm not a UTB salesperson however, it is one of the better systems. Personally I couldn't handle hooking up & unhooking something like a Brake-Buddy every time I wanted to connect or disconnect the TOAD but some people don't seem to mind doing this.

JoeG
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