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08-02-2008, 04:06 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 17
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I purchased a Mt.Aire in Oct. of 2008. My first trip south in Jan. of 2008 I stopped in Myrtle Beach and noticed that there was differental oil on the rear left wheel.I called Workhorse and and they recomended a shop in Myrtle beach.The gasket between the hub and the axel was leaking.The mechanic said the gasket was paper thin .
I left the MH in the shop and returned in a couple of hours and it was fixed.I thought they would replaced the gasket,but instead they used a permatex gasket.The mechanic said since the MH eas out of warranty, they said permatex was a better fix.The repair has not leaked,but the gasket on the other side is starting to leak.Has any one else had the same problem? What is the best solution, new paper thin gasket or permatex it?The MH Had 7300mi when I bought it, and it only has 9700 miles on it now.I would like to hear other opinions.I have the workhorse w-22 chasis. Jawpaint
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08-02-2008, 06:40 PM
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#16
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JOE WILKOWSKI:
I would like to hear other opinions. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Joe, I don't believe that there ever was a paper gasket however the best resolution is a silicone based, fluid liquid, semi hardening sealant. It works each and ever time. I'm currently running this type of sealant on both sides and it's holding very well.
Larry's did not pull a fast one on you. It really does work.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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08-03-2008, 06:25 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 17
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DriVer:The mechanic stated that the gasket was paper thin.The repair is working well.I was concerned about how to deal with the wheel on the other side.Do I have to lift the wheels off the ground to pull the axel or can I remove the bolts and slide the axel out? Jawpaint
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08-03-2008, 08:17 AM
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#18
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JOE WILKOWSKI:
Do I have to lift the wheels off the ground to pull the axle or can I remove the bolts and slide the axle out? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Joe, I wouldn't recommend that an axle be pulled with the tires on the ground. I would raise the axle off the ground just enough to get the weight off the tires.
Be level and chock your front and opposite side tires.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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08-03-2008, 10:03 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 17
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DriVer, Thanks for the info.Jawpaint
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12-13-2008, 02:23 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: California
Posts: 28
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I had the same leak several months ago and I also used a permatex non hardening silicone. So far no leaks. I also had the same paper thin gasked that failed after 25k miles.
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12-13-2008, 02:28 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: California
Posts: 28
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I jacked the side to be replaced up so not to leak out all the diff fluid when the axle is removed. Just un do the bolts and the axle slides out easily.
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12-13-2008, 06:53 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Reseda, CA
Posts: 124
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DriVer, no reason to take any weight off the tires when removing the axle, The axle doesn't bear any weight since it's a full floating axle..
I do agree with 03Dolphinlx that you can jack up the side your working on to reduce the amount of fluid you may lose when the axle is removed.
Since both sides have leaked I would suggest you check the diff vent to make sure it's not plugged. A plugged vent can cause the gaskets or seals to leak.
Jack
__________________
2006 Southwind 32V, Workhorse 8.1
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12-15-2008, 12:31 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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Just pull the drain plug and use a suction gun to replace the fluid. This way you don't have to jack up 1 side, you don't lose any fluid and you can check for contaminated fluid.
We use to change gears in the race car (Franklin Quick Change) in about 2 minutes and yes we use synthetic gear lube back then.
__________________
Dale
AKA - Oemy
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12-15-2008, 04:38 PM
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#24
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by HuskyJack:
DriVer, no reason to take any weight off the tires when removing the axle, The axle doesn't bear any weight since it's a full floating axle.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Jack, Old habits die hard I guess. I had always jacked up heavy vehicles to pull axles. I remember whacking the axle flange with a sledge hammer to pop the cones. I found also found it easier to locate the axle in the differential if everything moves. Now some 30+ years ago.
I know that its a lot easier to pull axles on our chassis that it used to be and I believe that you are correct in that you do not absolutely need to remove weight from the tires to repair an outside axle seal.
Knowing me, I would still jack up the vehicle. Something about old dogs ....
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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