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09-06-2020, 09:56 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,242
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W22 Parking Brake
Is the hydraulic drum parking brake on a W22 effective in stopping the coach in the event of a total brake system failure? i'm heading to Colorado next week so guess why I'm asking?
Bleeding the brakes with DOT4 before leaving.
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2004 National Dolphin LX 6320, W-22, 8.1, Allison 1000, Front/rear "Trac" Bars & Anti-sway Bars, Sumo Springs, Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer, 2005 PT Cruiser Toad
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09-06-2020, 09:59 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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No...
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Dale
AKA - Oemy
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09-06-2020, 10:02 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 2,514
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Here is a thread I started in 2016 about using the e brake in an emergency.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/has...cy-290714.html
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2005 Tiffin Allegro Bay 37DB
W22 Workhorse Chassis 8.1 Flat Towing a 82 Jeep CJ7
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09-06-2020, 10:04 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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On a Pusher by not on Gaser. Anyway I would not bet the farm on it.
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Dale
AKA - Oemy
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09-06-2020, 10:31 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,442
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A good, properly adjusted, parking brake should stop you in an emergency.
Although its small, it has a 4 or 5 to 1 advantage thru the differencal gears.
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09-06-2020, 10:50 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamJam1
Is the hydraulic drum parking brake on a W22 effective in stopping the coach in the event of a total brake system failure? i'm heading to Colorado next week so guess why I'm asking?
Bleeding the brakes with DOT4 before leaving.
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The DS mounted PB on the W-22 series chassis is NOT hydraulic, but rather it is foot applied. It certainly MIGHT help you slow down, but is not intended for that use and will quickly become worn down to the point of being useless. All that said, yes I would use it in an emergency, but only after jerking the tranny shift lever to progressively lower gears.
Assuming you have supplemental braking on your toad, I would also try applying the cars brakes before burning up the PB on the DS.
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09-06-2020, 11:00 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,492
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Setting a realistic control speed at the summit and gearing down the transmission to increase the engine hold back , to help keep the brakes cool on the downhill will keep you out of trouble.
Monitor your slowest uphill speed for the entire climb , that's your control speed at the summit .
Don't ride the brakes , coast allowing the engine/transmission to hold back your speed ; until you get about 8/10 MPH above your control speed , then use the brakes to quickly get 5 MPH below the control speed and start coasting again allowing the brakes to cool.
Remember getting to your destination is WAY more important than , getting there quickly.
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99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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09-06-2020, 05:55 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Pa
Posts: 648
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I have been on extreme grades in the western mountains without problems as I suspect many others on this forum have. Starting with too much speed at the top and then halfway down burning the brakes up and hoping the E-brake will bail you out is not a good plan. Flushing the brake fluid before you leave on the trip is an excellent idea. Three years ago I switched to DOT 5.1 fluid when I flushed my brakes due to it's higher boiling point (270 degrees) and compatibility with all systems that use glycol based fluid. DOT 5.1 is now the standard fluid used in all hydraulic brake systems of class 4 and above vehicles.
Tom
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2004 Coachman Santara 3480DS Workhorse w-22 Ultra Rv tune with Banks headers, Koni shocks
Retired OTR driver ATA 5 million mile safety award
USMC Vet 1968-1972
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09-06-2020, 06:47 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgray
The DS mounted PB on the W-22 series chassis is NOT hydraulic, but rather it is foot applied. It certainly MIGHT help you slow down, but is not intended for that use and will quickly become worn down to the point of being useless. All that said, yes I would use it in an emergency, but only after jerking the tranny shift lever to progressively lower gears.
Assuming you have supplemental braking on your toad, I would also try applying the cars brakes before burning up the PB on the DS.
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I have a Brake Buddy Classic on the toad. Since it's inertia activated, no brakes on the coach means no brakes on the toad too.
Also, this is a gas coach, so no jake brake.
Jumping clear of the wreck isn't even an option as there is no driver's door, lol.
I just replaced the DOT 3 brake fluid with DOT 4, but not having a backup braking system in something with a GCW nearing 24k lbs does not seem ideal.
__________________
2004 National Dolphin LX 6320, W-22, 8.1, Allison 1000, Front/rear "Trac" Bars & Anti-sway Bars, Sumo Springs, Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer, 2005 PT Cruiser Toad
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09-06-2020, 07:55 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamJam1
I have a Brake Buddy Classic on the toad. Since it's inertia activated, no brakes on the coach means no brakes on the toad too.
Also, this is a gas coach, so no jake brake.........
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True, not a Jake, but the engine braking via Tranny DS is the next best thing, and “should” provide enough deceleration to activate your Brake Buddy. If not, then perhaps you should consider updating the toad supplemental brake system.
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09-06-2020, 09:08 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgray
True, not a Jake, but the engine braking via Tranny DS is the next best thing, and “should” provide enough deceleration to activate your Brake Buddy. If not, then perhaps you should consider updating the toad supplemental brake system.
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Good point. Maybe I'll experiment with that on a lonely stretch or road sometime. I'm not really too wound up about this, but it's one of those things you think about as you're going down a 7% grade with no runaway truck ramps. I try to keep my brakes bled, treat them well as I'm descending and measure hub temps when I stop for gas. Most brake problems don't happen suddenly from something like a complete master cylinder failure, but have some indirect cause like neglecting to bleed brakes or a stuck caliper that should have been caught earlier if the driver had been paying attention.
__________________
2004 National Dolphin LX 6320, W-22, 8.1, Allison 1000, Front/rear "Trac" Bars & Anti-sway Bars, Sumo Springs, Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer, 2005 PT Cruiser Toad
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