|
05-23-2022, 09:14 AM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 6
|
W22 Rear Brakes Getting Hot
Hello,
Any Ideas on what to do next on my 2003 w22.
Rear brakes get very hot after about 20 miles.
On the rear, in the last month Its had 2 sets of new Callipers, pins, pads, new rotors, new flexi hoses and a brake fluid flush. But they still cook after about 20 miles. the left rear slightly worse than the right.
The fronts, which are also new never get hot.
If i go down the highway for long enough without touching the brakes, maybe 40 miles the rears will eventually cool off a bit. But then cook after a while if i need to start using them again in traffic.
This Rv also has the grease port on the linkage under the hood and the linkage all appears to be working correctly.
plus I had an auto electrician check the ABS was working.
Any ideas what to do next? i've read about people adding air cooling systems for the callipers on these chassis.
Maybe its normal for the rears to be red hot and the fronts be cold? although the rears have locked up and melted the abs wires when ive been in a lot of traffic in the past.
|
|
|
|
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
05-23-2022, 09:27 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: On the continental divide
Posts: 2,622
|
First place I would look is the proportioning valve, which tells the rears to engage first.
Second place is the master cylinder. Piston not returning ?
Mike in Colorado
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37c, 8.1 gasser, (Jezebel) Ultra RV ECM / TCM, plugs wires, and rear track bar, PPE deep Tx pan w/ temp gage, Bilstein's, Sailun's & Sumo's all round, pushed by a 2002 Grand Caravan, on a Master Tow Dolly OR a WR-250 on a rail.
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 09:32 AM
|
#3
|
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 6
|
Hi thanks for the reply. Im not a mechanic, so I'm learning as I go on this. Any idea where the proportioning valve is located? Also what it looks like?
I was wondering about the master cylinder, but the fronts are working correctly.
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 10:31 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Clovis, CA, USA
Posts: 13,149
|
How are you measuring the heat....IR gun?
Who did the brake job and did you return it to them to look at?
__________________
2004 Monaco La Palma 36DBD, W22, 8.1, 7.1 MPG
2000 LEXUS RX300 FWD 22MPG 4020 LBS
Criticism is easier than Craftsmanship
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 10:43 AM
|
#5
|
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 6
|
Hi, a pal of mine is a mechanic for a car racing team. He did the brake work for me. He's very competent and has a 2007 model w22. We've compared against his w22 and his rears don't get hot like mine.
Not checked with an IR gun but I ordered one a few days ago.
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 10:54 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Lansing MI
Posts: 2,825
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer15015
First place I would look is the proportioning valve, which tells the rears to engage first.
Second place is the master cylinder. Piston not returning ?
Mike in Colorado
|
For some reason the brake pads are staying in contact with the rotors. There are only a few reasons for this, the two stated above and the brake pads binding up on whatever they slide on or the caliper pistons binding up. This isn't rocket science. Have your buddy loosen the bleeders on the rear calipers. If brake fluid shoots, not dribbles, out you have an issue with the proportioning valve or the master cylinder causing residual pressure in the system. If no brake fluid shoots out the pads or the caliper piston are binding up somewhere. Good luck.
__________________
An Old Fisherman
2017 Nexus Ghost 36DS, 2014 Ford F150 Long Bed
2007 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 11:13 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 101
|
I had this issue on the front brakes. The original rubber brake lines (that go between the hard lines and the caliper/drum) collapse on the inside. Think of sucking a shake/malt through a straw. It's a pretty inexpensive fix, but you will need to bleed your brake system after doing it.
__________________
2017 Holiday Rambler Vesta - Class C
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 11:24 AM
|
#8
|
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 6
|
Hi, thanks for that, we'll try the pressure test on the bleed valves and see what that tells us.
I agree it seems like brake imbalance as I can't imagine that both rear calipers are faulty or getting bound up on any mechanism. They've been replaced twice in the last month and had sliders cleaned, greased and checked both times. I'm just getting tired of throwing money at the problem without fully understanding the cause
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 11:26 AM
|
#9
|
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 6
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by IdahoBen
I had this issue on the front brakes. The original rubber brake lines (that go between the hard lines and the caliper/drum) collapse on the inside. Think of sucking a shake/malt through a straw. It's a pretty inexpensive fix, but you will need to bleed your brake system after doing it.
|
Hi thanks for the reply, but we changed them already.
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 03:40 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Madison, MS
Posts: 10,527
|
Just a shot in the dark here, but do you know if the sets of new calipers your friend has installed have the “rv specific” improvements that were mandated by the 2010 Bosch caliper recall?
I was told that “not all” (especially reman) calipers have the increased piston to bore clearance and “more powerful” piston seal (said to aid in retraction) that were included in the ones Bosch made for RV use.
Otherwise, I agree there must be a problem with the MC. IRDK if there even is a proportional valve in the service braking system on the W-22 series chassis.
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 03:59 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 358
|
W22 rear brakes getting hot
Sounds like classic case of rubber brake lines portion of the system being blocked by rubber breakdown from hot brakes at one time. The rubber lines plug up with calcified rubber and will not let brake fluid floe back into the reservoir. The result is that the caliper can’t release the brake fluid pressure that was applied when the power assisted brakes were pressed. Easy to test for by removing rubber brake line and trying to blow air through each way. A good brake shop will do this if you ask. Important to flush system after removing old rubber brake line and before putting new ones in. Good luck but I am sure this is your problem. Happened to me every trip after hard mountain braking out west. Finally figured it out and problem solved for good. Rkl
|
|
|
05-23-2022, 06:01 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Pa
Posts: 648
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKL2
Sounds like classic case of rubber brake lines portion of the system being blocked by rubber breakdown from hot brakes at one time. The rubber lines plug up with calcified rubber and will not let brake fluid floe back into the reservoir. The result is that the caliper can’t release the brake fluid pressure that was applied when the power assisted brakes were pressed. Easy to test for by removing rubber brake line and trying to blow air through each way. A good brake shop will do this if you ask. Important to flush system after removing old rubber brake line and before putting new ones in. Good luck but I am sure this is your problem. Happened to me every trip after hard mountain braking out west. Finally figured it out and problem solved for good. Rkl
|
His post said he already replaced the rear flex lines
__________________
2004 Coachman Santara 3480DS Workhorse w-22 Ultra Rv tune with Banks headers, Koni shocks
Retired OTR driver ATA 5 million mile safety award
USMC Vet 1968-1972
|
|
|
06-08-2022, 06:00 AM
|
#13
|
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 6
|
Update. 1000mile trip and things seem better.
Ive changed my driving style and theyre no longer overheating and sticking on.
On a long highway run and without use, the rear bake calipers sit at around 200 degrees. And in stop start traffic and hills they got up to 300 degees.
Not hot enough to melt the abs wires or bind the calipers on.
Although it seems strange that the calipers would be hot even when your not using them. But from what i can gather this is normal on a workhorse of this era, ive read quite a few posts with people reporting the same kind of figures.
As far as driving style goes...im just a lot kinder to it...anticipating my braking rather than standing on them or riding them all the way down a hill...im using my grade brake now and generally being a lot less aggressive...Calm driving it seems is what a workhorse needs!
Thanks for the suggestions.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|